Chronicle of my 180g Aquarium
- Thread starter Psyire
- Start date
Psyire
Premium Member
Cosper, 95% of it came from Jeremy over at www.reeferrocks.com (it's awesome stuff)
Mako, check out this thread for the magnesium and kalk: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=600135
(salt was bought in a local group buy)
Mako, check out this thread for the magnesium and kalk: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=600135
(salt was bought in a local group buy)
Psyire
Premium Member
Thanks Bax!
I've done some major changes to my overflow mesh. Here's the detailed process.
Originally my overflow had black eggcrate across the top to keep things out. However I had some bad experiences with picking clownfish out of my overflow downstairs (50g) as they were small enough to fit through. (as well as a few small hermit crabs)
Original:
So the solution was to make the holes smaller using this:
I tried this downstairs (50g) first and it worked well, so I proceeded to do the same on the 180g.
I did this before even running the tank with water so I never though any more about it, looked like it was well fixed. Then one day I happened to lightly bump one of the eggcrate meshs and it just tumbled of like it was just sitting there... Upon further inspection all the eggcrate came off with ease. Somehow the epoxy used to hold it in place just came right off. I wasn't too upset as I never really like the eggcrate to begin with so I went searching for an alternative.
Acrylic Overflow Teeth. This was it, definately a better choice and I wish I would have went this way from the start. I contacted Mako56 as I seen he had made some of his own, and he was generous enough to whip me up a set. After getting them I took the hacksaw and dremel to them in order to make them a precise fit, and it turned out great.
Siliconing them in place:
I'm super happy with them, and I think they work much better overall. We'll see.
I've done some major changes to my overflow mesh. Here's the detailed process.
Originally my overflow had black eggcrate across the top to keep things out. However I had some bad experiences with picking clownfish out of my overflow downstairs (50g) as they were small enough to fit through. (as well as a few small hermit crabs)
Original:
So the solution was to make the holes smaller using this:
I tried this downstairs (50g) first and it worked well, so I proceeded to do the same on the 180g.
I did this before even running the tank with water so I never though any more about it, looked like it was well fixed. Then one day I happened to lightly bump one of the eggcrate meshs and it just tumbled of like it was just sitting there... Upon further inspection all the eggcrate came off with ease. Somehow the epoxy used to hold it in place just came right off. I wasn't too upset as I never really like the eggcrate to begin with so I went searching for an alternative.
Acrylic Overflow Teeth. This was it, definately a better choice and I wish I would have went this way from the start. I contacted Mako56 as I seen he had made some of his own, and he was generous enough to whip me up a set. After getting them I took the hacksaw and dremel to them in order to make them a precise fit, and it turned out great.
Siliconing them in place:
I'm super happy with them, and I think they work much better overall. We'll see.
Psyire
Premium Member
I also got the final peices for my tank shroud this weekend, so I was able to test fit them all and they look awesome!
Next step is to paint them and attach the handles. Here's some preview shots!
I'm only running 2x 10K lights right now as there isn't much point for anything more.
Next step is to paint them and attach the handles. Here's some preview shots!
I'm only running 2x 10K lights right now as there isn't much point for anything more.
tigerarmy40
New member
this tank is really looking good~you should addd about three more bags of sand! it would really set it off! and with the stand does it have doors that open or is it just closed off?
tigerarmy40
New member
cool idea with the magnets!
Few questions as I've just reread this thread. In the overflow plumbing picture what is the halfway up pipe for 2nd from the righ:
I see the Durso but this other one looks like it could drain half the tank?
How much flow if your return pushing out those 4 outlets?
I see the Durso but this other one looks like it could drain half the tank?
How much flow if your return pushing out those 4 outlets?
Psyire
Premium Member
Alright, I'll try and explain the overflow plumbing abit better.
The shortened standpipe is the pipe that handles a good 80% of the flow and it heads down to the skimmer section of my sump. The Durso standpipe handles the remainder 20% and heads into my Refugium. I figure I have roughly 1000gph flowing through my overflow/sump/returns. So this equates to 800gph through the skimmer section and 200gph through the 'fuge.
This is how it works. I have ball valves on both standpipes and I throttle back the flow on the cutoff standpipe until the water level starts rising above it in the overflow. The water then rises up to the level of the durso and starts going down into the 'fuge. The more I throttle it the more flow will go down to the fuge and the more I let off, the more the flow will go to the skimmer section. The main reason for it is to eliminate the noise, as you well know air creates the noise.. so there is absolutely no air going down the cutoff standpipe which handles the most flow. It's super quiet as I've really only got the equivelent of 200gph going through a durso, which induces some air but not much due to the low flow rate.
The coolest thing about it is the way I can control the amount of flow in the fuge, as I just have to adjust one ball valve and this will raise or lower the flow. You are also able to use ball valves instead of gate valves in this setup as your flowrate can vary a tad as the durso can easily handle any small fluctuations and keep the level in the overflow level.
If something happens and flow stops then the waterlevel in the overflow drops to the cutoff standpipe, but this is only about 5" and inside the overflow.. so my sump handles it easily as I have spare room.
I learned this method from fellow RCer, littlesilvermax. It's awesome my tank is super quiet do the the low flow of air in the standpipes.
The shortened standpipe is the pipe that handles a good 80% of the flow and it heads down to the skimmer section of my sump. The Durso standpipe handles the remainder 20% and heads into my Refugium. I figure I have roughly 1000gph flowing through my overflow/sump/returns. So this equates to 800gph through the skimmer section and 200gph through the 'fuge.
This is how it works. I have ball valves on both standpipes and I throttle back the flow on the cutoff standpipe until the water level starts rising above it in the overflow. The water then rises up to the level of the durso and starts going down into the 'fuge. The more I throttle it the more flow will go down to the fuge and the more I let off, the more the flow will go to the skimmer section. The main reason for it is to eliminate the noise, as you well know air creates the noise.. so there is absolutely no air going down the cutoff standpipe which handles the most flow. It's super quiet as I've really only got the equivelent of 200gph going through a durso, which induces some air but not much due to the low flow rate.
The coolest thing about it is the way I can control the amount of flow in the fuge, as I just have to adjust one ball valve and this will raise or lower the flow. You are also able to use ball valves instead of gate valves in this setup as your flowrate can vary a tad as the durso can easily handle any small fluctuations and keep the level in the overflow level.
If something happens and flow stops then the waterlevel in the overflow drops to the cutoff standpipe, but this is only about 5" and inside the overflow.. so my sump handles it easily as I have spare room.
I learned this method from fellow RCer, littlesilvermax. It's awesome my tank is super quiet do the the low flow of air in the standpipes.
