Cinder block stands

[Fishbulb2]

Hi guys,

I need to build a stand for six 20g tall aquariums that will be in a basement project. Appearance does not matter so I'm considering doing a cinder block based design similar to this one here.

http://www.petfish.net/articles/Do-It-Yourself/10grack.php

Does anyone have experience with these and is this a good idea? My thought was to build two stand each supporting three 20g tanks. The longest unsupported stretch should be about 25" but there will be a 20 gallon tank right there in the middle. Is this OK? Would people recommend this with 2X4 or 2X6? There will be a 3/4" piece of plywood over whatever lumber I choose.

Here is a rough layout of what I had in mind.

And here's what's going on top. Although the tanks will be arranged all in one row with the short side facing towards me in the rack.

The 40Breeder is a sump that will be placed off to the side.

Thanks for the feedback guys,
FB

 

[kcress]

I'd not go with the "book case on top of cinder blocks" scheme. I'd instead go with the "Ice Cream Sandwich" scheme.

Use long 2x6s that run from one end to the other continuously. Cinder blocks on the ends and a single course up the center. Then add more cinder blocks to make the next space then lay down another set of 2x6s. The repeat for the last shelf. Having all of it be continuous pieces of wood will stiffen the entire thing up and give it more stability. If there is the chance of rugrats climbing on it I'd NOT do the stacking thing at all.

I'd NOT use 2x4s at all anywhere in this as they are just not rigid enough.

If you were in an earthquake area I'd probably reconsider because there is no good way to brace this scheme or tie it to the building.

 

[Photobug]

Last time I used cinder blocks my tank split open and leaked 55 gallons into the floor and the people downstairs. You definitely want to reinforce it as described or just make a solid stand out of 2x materials.

 

[Fishbulb2]

Oh sorry for the confusion Kcress. I should have explained the diagram. I posted it late well after my brain went to sleep.

All six tanks are line up in one row and the stand is only one level. The cinder blocks are oriented as if you were looking at the stand from in front. The lumber and plywood top is drawn as if you are looking down on it. So the 2X framing and plywood will be 40" x 25.75" and laid on top of the blocks. This will hold three 20g tanks with one floating over no support. To hold the other three tanks, I just duplicate the design and they can share the center cinder block support beam.

This is in the basement so breaking would be less damage than if I had it upstairs. That said, I really really don't ever want this to break. I can imaging a reason for breaking is that these cinderblock stands might be harder to level. I'm not sure how you slip shims under cinder blocks. I've considered an all 2X4 construction but it just turns out to be A LOT of lumber. Maybe my design wasn't so good.

FB

 

[kcress]

Wow.. That drawing is soOOOoo pointless then.

It will still work. Run the wood all the way across - not - two pieces.

If you're still concerned you can add a single piece of 2x4 on edge glued and screwed to the bottom center of each 2x6 in the span between the cinder blocks. That will make the 2x6s "think" they are 4 inches thick. They'll be really stiff then.

 

[Fishbulb2]

Wow.. That drawing is soOOOoo pointless then.

Ha, yeah well the point of doing it for me was to see exactly what lumber at what lengths I would need to pick up from Lowes or HD. It's basically my tally sheet.

Thanks for the input. Do you think this is worth the ease or should I just overbuild a 2X4 all wood construction?

FB

 

[sinenomine]

Lots of pros use cinder block bases for large grow out operations. Fwiw: I kept a full 20L on two saw horses for about 2 months while switching some tanks around. No problems with the suspension there. Good luck.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

[Fishbulb2]

Do you guys think the 4 beams running longitudinally are necessary or would three suffice?

Thanks again,
FB

 

[on the spot]

Do you think this is worth the ease or should I just overbuild a 2X4 all wood construction?

An all 2x4 construction is just as easy given your requirements, and it's easier to dispose of once this breeding/growing project is done. I'd use all lumber.

 

[kcress]

Do you guys think the 4 beams running longitudinally are necessary or would three suffice?

Thanks again,
FB

Beats me since you don't mention the tank lengths that are spanning the 2x6s. Whatever width of 2x6s or 2x8s you need to support the ENTIRE frames of the tanks.

BTW I ran a 55g tank on cinder blocks for a few years right thru the Loma Prieta Earthquake(near epicenter).

I lost only 5 gallons, (into a brand new answering machine), however my tank was oriented lengthwise in the direction of movement. It would've been a badly different result if it had been oriented 90 degrees turned.

 

[Fishbulb2]

Hi Kcress,

Each 20 gallon tank is 24.25" by 12.5". They are oriented so that the short end faces you when in front of the stand. I picked up the 2x6's from HD and the 3/4" particle board. Wow, it's already getting massive. I got 2x6's long enough to fit all six tanks on. Originally I wanted it to be more modular but I was able to fit the long boards in my car and through the doorways, so no problems there. I looked at the cinder blocks and they're pretty short. I don't think 3 stacked would be tall enough for me. I would have to go at least 4 I think or I am still considering getting more 2x6's and just do it all in wood.

FB

 

[nicolassoleil]

just remember to spray paint the blocks metallic gold so they look classy. ;-)

 

[kcress]

Lime green would be more fun.

One thing I would definitely not do is get lousy particle board anywhere near a tank. That stuff is heavy and dissolves on contact with water.

 

[Fishbulb2]

One thing I would definitely not do is get lousy particle board anywhere near a tank. That stuff is heavy and dissolves on contact with water.

Arg, well that stinks. I've assembled the 2x6 top frame but haven't attached the particle board in any way. Is there anything I can do to salvage it? Like, paint it with something water proof. I looked at my local home depot and the pickings were slim. They had MDF, this particle board, and marine grade plywood. The marine grade plywood said it was treated with copper and the quality looked really poor. It had lots of knots and virtually no smooth level surface at all.

I also spent A LOT of time drilling the six holes into the tanks to get them ready for plumbing. Boy that takes a while. Glad it's finally done though.

And just to go a quick little unrelated rant, what is the deal with all the stickers manufacturers have to put on everything? These tanks each had about 4 stickers from Aqueon on them plus another plethora of stickers from Petco slapped onto them. It took forever to peel them all off and about half made a mess. A couple peeled off smoothly and left a perfect imprint of the warranty information for each tank on the glass panels. Can't they just put a little card inside the tank with that information and not make this such a pain?

I also bought new sunglasses this week and of course there was a sticker on both lenses. Really, is that necessary? They said UV protection. Well that's worth me trying to peel them off the lenses without leaving glue.

OK sorry for the rant.


Well, for the stand, I can still build a 2x6 frame and ditch the cinder blocks. The main reason I'm leaning towards a wood frame is that I think it would take at least 4 blocks stacked up to get this thing reasonably off of the ground for me to work on it without having to bend over too much. Thoughts? And if I ditch the particle board, what kind of wood top would you all recommend?

Thanks,

FB

 

[neptunestender]

I would use 19/32 cdx plywood, some would call this 5/8. The cdx stands for c grade on one side d grade on the other an x for exterior. Th x is the important part. Exterior plywood is made with water resistant glue, plwood without the x could delaminate if water spills occured.

+1 with kcress on no mdf or partical board anywhere near a tank.

Good luck,
Ed

 

[Fishbulb2]

Thanks for the advice Neptune. I'll look into the cdx this weekend and checkout HD or Lowes for it. Is there any concern regarding the "treatments" used in exterior grade wood for reef animals (such as copper or otherwise). Also would you treat the cdx with anything like sealant or paint?

Thanks,
FB

 

[neptunestender]

Stay away from pressure treated lumber as it is treated with arsenic and boratic acid and god knows what else. As for the cdx any lumber shop will stock it, it is what most builders use if they dont use OSB. Unless you put the cdx in the aquarium, it will be safe. LOL As far as paint is concerned I cant say for sure, but I would just polyuerethane it.

Happy reefing,
Ed

 

[Fishbulb2]

Thanks Neptune. Sounds like a plan. I'll see what I can find this weekend.

I think I can still put the particle board to use outside in the garage. I need to build some storage shelves anyways.

FB

 

[mikelee35]

I used 2x4 and particle board to build the stand for my breeder setup, 3/4" particle board painted in leftover exterior paint from my house and haven't had any problems with it in 2 yrs, water beads right off

 

[Fishbulb2]

I would use 19/32 cdx plywood, some would call this 5/8. The cdx stands for c grade on one side d grade on the other an x for exterior. Th x is the important part. Exterior plywood is made with water resistant glue, plwood without the x could delaminate if water spills occured.

+1 with kcress on no mdf or partical board anywhere near a tank.

Good luck,
Ed

Well thanks again for the tips Neptune. I scrapped the particle board (I'll try to use it for a non-fish product since I have so much of it now) and I went with cdx. I used an all 2x6 construction since nicholassoleil made me all self conscience about the cinder blocks and how they wouldn't look classy enough.

My concern is this. After all of the assembly and painting, it doesn't appear that the cdx is smooth enough for all parts of the aquarium rim to sit flush against it. I think that's why I mistakenly went with the particle board on my first trip to HD, it simply looked smoother and flatter. Normally I always shim my stands to make sure they are level, but I don't think it will help here. I've seen others use foam underneath their tank, but my understanding is that this is not really meant for aquariums with a bottom trim. What do you guys think about a very thin piece of foam like 1/4" foam core board from a crafts store? Once all parts of the frame are making contact, I would then shim to level the entire stand. Then off to plumbing and insulation for the tanks.

Thanks,
FB