Clamp your hoses!!!!! Noob mistake

[Capsle]

Hey Reefers,

Just wanted to share the importance and new bee mistake I made.

All my drainage to the sump is hard plumbed in PCV and glued with no issue.

My return to the tank is 1" flex tube going from the return pump to a check valve then to the tank through a bulkhead. My flex tube is clamped at the bulk head and both sides of the check valve.

I did not clamp the flex tube on my return pump however. The reason being is I had suck a hard time getting it on in the first place I thought to myself there is no way this is coming off since it was so tight. Also I figured if it did leak a bit it wasn't an issue seeing as it was in my sump.

Well, last night I was playing around in my sump and accidentally hit the return line. I'm guessing most of you have seen the fountains at the Belagio Hotel in Vegas, you know the ones with the skyrocketing jet streams of water going 50+ feet in the air! Let's just say I had unintentionally recreated the exact same thing! A 1" water stream with a 1300 gph pump going full force up and hitting the top of my stand. I got my hand over the pump wishing a few seconds but a few seconds too late.

My wife was breastfeeding upstairs and couldn't come turn the power off. I finally managed to get my return hose back on and shut the power off.

Needless to say CLAMP ALL YOUR HOSES!!

Caps


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[billdogg]

Lesson learned? Been there, done that, and many more like it.

Just one suggestion - you should remove the check valve - it will fail due to build up of gunk. If you think you need it to prevent a back siphon into the sump, you need to redesign your return line. Simply positioning it closer to the surface will create an automatic siphon break for you. If your sump is so small that it cannot hold the water that drains back when the power is off, your sump is too small, and relying on a check valve will just give a false sense of security.

Although it might be a pia to change things around, doing so now will save the flood from happening.

 

[elFloyd]

Zip ties work well as clamps.

I've also learned to soak flex PVC or any tubing in very hot water to soften it up. Slides on much easier and you can push it further up a graduated nipple.

 

[Capsle]

Lesson learned? Been there, done that, and many more like it.

Just one suggestion - you should remove the check valve - it will fail due to build up of gunk. If you think you need it to prevent a back siphon into the sump, you need to redesign your return line. Simply positioning it closer to the surface will create an automatic siphon break for you. If your sump is so small that it cannot hold the water that drains back when the power is off, your sump is too small, and relying on a check valve will just give a false sense of security.

Although it might be a pia to change things around, doing so now will save the flood from happening.

My sump can hold all the back siphon from my tank with about 3" to spare. The check valve isn't necessary but more of a precaution.

I'm more worried about my DT overflowing and not really sure how to full proof it.


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[billdogg]

If your drain line(s) are sized properly the DT cannot overflow.

And fwiw, the only thing check valves do is create a restriction and therefore reduce overall flow.

 

[Sk8r]

A check valve is a flood waiting to happen: get a manually adjustable gate valve.

 

[visionary]

i've learned if you throw your hoses in the dryer, they straighten out. make sure you lay them flat on the floor. it's pretty amazing lol.

 

[elFloyd]

i've learned if you throw your hoses in the dryer, they straighten out. make sure you lay them flat on the floor. it's pretty amazing lol.

Never tried that one... But it makes sense. I need to straighten a ten foot section of 1" flex PVC... Think I'll wait until Mrs.elFloyd is out of the house.

 

[Crumpy]

I agree with the zip ties in my sump anything underneath the water line I use zip ties. In the marine/boating field they sell zip ties that are made to wrap hoses for a tight fit . Anything above the water line I recommend not cheaping out and buying the nicest stainless steel clamps you can . The ones at west marine are excellent they do not have the cuts in the band so they will not scar or cut hoses. Also less likely to rust in a salty humid sump.


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[mullerjd]

I learned a lesson about clamps a few months ago however mine was inside my tank. Just received a GFO reactor and have no sump so have the pump in tank. Didn't clamp the hose to the pump and while I was away it broke loose. The pump was pushing a lot of water which ended up blasting my Torch and Duncan's which hated it and bothe died from the beating.

 

[Volcmreefer]

+1 for zip ties. Just make sure you tighten the crap out of them!

 

[NAClFiSHy]

noted.

 

[Mike Ordner]

I would also go with a zip tie or a plastic hose clamp. Even stainless steel will eventually rust and you are not sure what all the metals are in that "rust".