Cleaner shrimp won't clean ich

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8274409#post8274409 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Angel*Fish
One more thing - a refractometer is always recomended for hypo - Recently at MACNA (Sept 2006) Steven Pro gave a talk that included results from his study of swing arm specific gravity testers and found that at least while brand new are just as accurate as refractometers - so if you don't already have one and can't get one immediately - you might consider using a swing arm of the brand he tested . BTW he did test for sensitivity down in the lower ranges required for hypo

Just saw this (running around with wet hands and checking in here erratically in between moving water & critters). I do have a refractometer.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8275172#post8275172 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ocicat
OK, that's enough for me... I'm going to hypo the tank.

Even if I could catch the CB, that would create another problem - during her absence, the flame (which is already giving her some trouble) would decide he completely owns the tank by the time she gets back.

I've decided to remove my corals and as many snails/crabs as I can find and hypo the main tank.

I don't think I would ever hypo my display tank. I think it might create too much die off creating another cycle and end up killing everything left in the tank.
 
I agree DON'T DO HYPO on your main tank get a QT and do it there. You could end up killing everything in the main tank from from die off of your sand and LR and all other inverts. If you do get ready to do at least one big water change every day. Good luck
 
Ocicat,

They have some good points - I think doing it that way may present problems that a beginner might not be needing to deal with.

I don't think it's as bad as what they're saying either though - and I'd think you be doing some daily water changes in a 20g containing a trigger, 2 angels and a chromis also.

After all your tank is fairly new and you don't have a DSB
 
If you have liverock or sand in this display, I would not use hyposalinity. It will kill most of the life on the rock and in the sand. This could cause dangerous, potentially deadly, levels of ammonia, not to mention the lose of life and the cost of reseeding everything later.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8277538#post8277538 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Steven Pro
If you have liverock or sand in this display, I would not use hyposalinity. It will kill most of the life on the rock and in the sand. This could cause dangerous, potentially deadly, levels of ammonia, not to mention the lose of life and the cost of reseeding everything later.
She was going to move all her coral & LR, snails, crabs & shrimp to the 20g - her tank is only 2 mo. old and she doesn't have a DSB- so it's not as bad as it sounds -

Steven, was I right in quoting you about the swing arms you tested being also accurate at hypo levels? I thought you said that at MACNA but when I linked to your report, i didn't see mention of it.
 
Will it kill the good bacteria in the rock and sand? That is really all the life my live rock & sand came with.

I do not think attempting to keep the two pygmies and a very boisterous trigger (plus 4 chromis) in 20 gallons for 4-6 weeks would end well.
 
BTW my current status is that I have already moved the corals and all crabs & snails I could find (and the useless shrimp) into QT. After the tank has been dark for 1-2 hours I'll go down with a flashlight to collect the nassarius snails that only show themselves at night (ever since Fido joined the tank). I have also begun the process of dropping the salinity... It will take more than 72 hours to do on ~230 gallons of water, as my RO unit can only work so fast. Of course if this is truly a horrible course of action, and it will totally wipe out the bacteria on my LR, I can abort and... do I don't know what.

I added garlic to the water & to the food, and in the last couple of hours Daisy the CB has resumed grazing and actively picking at the rock and sand, although she still isn't taking prepared foods (even though she did at the LFS). So that's an improvement - she seems to be feeling better.
 
Here are some threads- I thought you were going to be able to put your LR in the 20g. If the 20g isn't big enough - just put it in a Rubbermaid container with a powerhead and a heater - It will be fine that way - FWIW IMO you should lleave in the tank/sacrifice a couple of smaller pieces for the angels so they'll have something normal to pick on and then also add artificial items to the tank like pitchers, cups, glasses, PVC pipes what ever you have to give them a "reef" & give them hidey holes plus help them stay separated from each other - so to speak. Angels and triggers don't feel safe without these. You can also scoop up a quart of sand for reseeding (put it in with the LR)

Try this thread

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=580182&highlight=rock+AND+hypo

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=580185&highlight=rock+AND+hypo

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=579909&highlight=rock+AND+hypo
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8277576#post8277576 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Angel*Fish
Steven, was I right in quoting you about the swing arms you tested being also accurate at hypo levels? I thought you said that at MACNA but when I linked to your report, i didn't see mention of it.
Correct. That portion of the testing will come out in part 2 of the article series.
 
Well, I guess tonight I will try to catch everyone... Removing all of the LR would be almost as much of a PITA as trying to catch the fish (it wouldn't even begin to fit into a 20-gal tank), and I have all live sand also.

From what I have read, it looks like hypo doesn't usually kill good bacteria. Among my LR, I have like 50# of rock that started as base rock a few months ago - there should not be too much more than bacteria living on it. I will take out that rock and put it in the QT. In addition to making the angels & trigger more comfortable, hopefully the ~3 months it spent in the display will cause it to bring in some bacterial filtration capability to the QT.

In addition the 20-gallon QT tank I also have an empty 10-gal tank. I am thinking I will use 2 powerheads, one in each tank, with tubing to move water back and forth between the tanks. This way my total volume will be 30 gallons, but I can separate the 2 angels. I'm thinking I'll put Fido the trigger and the flame angel in the 20-gal, and Daisy the CB and the 4 chromis in the 10-gal.

All of this, or course, is dependent on catching all of these fish. It will be easier once I remove 50# of the rock.

I just want to say thanks to everyone for all of the information. I have not had time to read everything in the links, but I did read the article about ich's life cycle - very informative and interesting. One thing I know is that I want to be sure I get completely rid of it, and from now on I will definitely QT (and probably hypo) everyone so it never comes back. At least I am learning my lesson early, before my tank is fully stocked.
 
BTW I want to share an ... interesting... experience I had at an LFS yesterday. I like most of the LFS in my area and until now have not really had any of the typical bad LFS experiences so often referenced on RC.

I was in the store to pick up some supplies for this ordeal. While there of course I made a stroll along the fish tanks, and I came across a gorgeous, show-size ($130) tomini tang. A tomini is very high on my stocking list. I watched him for a couple minutes, and I noticed 2 white spots above his left eye, and I also saw that his tail and fins had some dull white marks on them. Looked pretty familiar.

He was very active, however, and I thought to myself, here is a fish I want - a really beautiful specimen - and I am about to hypo my display tank anyway. I would not even have to put him through a separate QT in the potentially stressful, small confines of a 20-gal, and perhaps they'd let him go at a discount since he's clearly infected.

So I brought the matter to the attention of the nearest employee, breaking the news as gently as I could that I thought one of his fish had ich, and that I was wondering if they might come down on the price since the fish was sick.

His response? "Maybe it's a birth defect."

:rolleyes:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8282338#post8282338 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ocicat


His response? "Maybe it's a birth defect."

:rolleyes:
How sad - unfortunately, the more you know the worse the LFS tends to look ;) I'd never heard the birth defect story before - good one - :D
 
That's a unique one from a LFS. I've heard a bunch before but that is original. Hopefully the hypo will take care of your ich though. There are too many people that think hypo won't take care of ich. Those are the ones that will eventually end up with a disaster on their hands.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8275031#post8275031 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mike89t
If there was truely a reef safe medication that removed Ich from a reef tank without affecting any of your invertibrates it would be the hottest selling product on the market.

I have used "Stop Parasites" by Chem Marin when my Purple Tang had such a bad case of it that I was sure he was a gonner....It took 31 treatments instead of 10 (2 per day) but I haven't had a re-occurance in 2 months....It IS reef safe & Chem Marin is one of the few companies I can say has the BEST customer service I ever experienced....Try it, It WORKS!!!!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8284703#post8284703 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Freed
31 treatments? Is that a 3(three) followed by a 1(one)? Holy maholeys.
That's quite a few! But if it's actualy truely really totally reef safe - it sounds like the easiest!

How much does 31 treatments cost?
 
had ich in my 150g because of inverts they told me to gradually turn the temp up over 3 days to 82 leave the shrimp in and give it time. it worked in my tank
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8284891#post8284891 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lclzgarling
had ich in my 150g because of inverts they told me to gradually turn the temp up over 3 days to 82 leave the shrimp in and give it time. it worked in my tank
Hmm... I've never heard of that but I do keep my temp between 82-83 and never have ich FWIW
 
My temp is from 82 on up to 84, even 85 some days. :( I think I may have to get a chiller. Anyhow, ich doesn't seem bothered by it...

As to the tomini with the birth defect, I am thinking I should have bought him and tried to breed him, creating a whole new sub-species of white-spotted tomini tangs...

Seriously though, I had a few items in my hands that I was planning to purchase, and I was so disgusted that I put them back on the shelf and walked out. I may be new to saltwater, but I have had freshwater and I know ich when I see it!
 
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