**Clear** Mesh Top

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8596541#post8596541 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dfleary
How would you "rip" a groove in it for the spline? (I have no knowledge of working with acrylic at all.)

router or table saw would work, if you wanted to go that route
 
Sparkss,
I agree that the aluminum is much stronger. I'd simply put a few coats of paint on the aluminum for a bit extra corrsion resistance.
It'd have to be very thick acrylic to match the strength of the aluminum.
 
we are about to build one for our new tank, so I will be able to chime in on that topic eventually :). Since the new tank is a ways off from being operational (IE: housing livestock), I can't say for sure when I will get around to building the mesh top, but we do have all of the materials already (just a matter of time and priorities) :)
 
I don't know if it's been mentioned, but that mesh looks like the netting used in a bait cast net. You can pick up cheap ones at wal mart for $20-$30 and have enough to do a couple tanks.

It's just fishing line and shouldn't be affected by the light.
Great Idea.
 
Not so. Mono becomes brittle after long term exposure to UV light.

I fish constantly. I know this from experience. It'll eventually weaken and start to turn slightly brittle and powdery looking.
 
The mesh I have is holding up well. Nearly a year and no sign of any cracking or problem. I am running t5's and a DE 250 halide.

Also, there hasn't been any issue with the aluminum frame corroding. If you're worried about not being able to grow corals, here's a recent pic of my tank. The light penetration without having to deal with shading and saltcreep are one of the reasons I feel my tank has been doing so well.

2006-12-25-eyecandy1_sm.jpg
 
I stated that mono gets brittle in UV light. Of course, I was referring to my experiences with fishing line and how it is affected by the sun.

Since our lights are in no way as strong as the sun, it'll take awhile for this to happen on our tanks. Hopefully, at least a few years.

Your tank looks good and will only look better as the frags fill in the rest of the rockwork.
 
Here is what I ended up making. I wanted to take full advantage of the light I have, so I did not want to use aluminum. Also I did not want to worry about getting them wet. I just cut some strips of acrylic, routered a lip down one side of it then glued the pieces together. To hold the mesh I just used 6 little pieces of acrylic, one on each end and 2 in the middle. The first one I use some red acrylic rod. for the second one I just used some of the same acrylic I made the frame with. I still have 2 more to make for my 240. I am trying to think of a way to pull the mesh tighter, to eliminate the wrinkles.
tank%20top%20screen2.jpg

tank%20top%20screen%201.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8596544#post8596544 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sparkss
but even heavy acrylic has more of a tendency to warp with the heat from a reef tank than the aluminum frame does. So long as the aluminum doesn't come in direct contact with the tank water I don't see the problem, outside of maybe having to replace it every 10 years or so (if that). Think about how many aluminum window screens and doors there are on houses on the beach/next to the ocean. Ture, they are much further away than the frame is from the tank water, but those windows screens on the houses take a bit more environmental abuse from the wind, rain, longer UV exposure, etc, and they still hold up.

Just my thoughts and observations :)

its not the aluminum frame that they are worried about, that can easily be replaced. but rather the risk of the aluminum contaminating the aquairum itself.
im not a pro at this but i have never seen aluminum show corrosion at all. maybe i just dont know what to look for.

i have never tried, though i think it wouldnt be very difficult to use other forms of plastic to build the frame with other than acrylic.
 
The aluminum frame has been on the top of my tank for about a year now and hasn't shown any signs of corrosion. Wouldn't it show signs of corrosion within a year?
 
Most, if not all colored alu frames today are powder coated, which is a baked on enamel and is tough. Not like the old screens from your moms house. for added durability and life, spar coat the frame and silicone the miters. should last years either way
 
"I am trying to think of a way to pull the mesh tighter, to eliminate the wrinkles."

Try using some fishing line and a needle and simply spiral wrap the mesh tight to the frame on one (or all) sides.
 
Aluminum does carode. It should not be a big problem with modern coated screen frames, if it never gets wet. My frames have gooten wet several times, but that was not my reasoning in making acrylic frames. I can make shapes with the acrylic I could not do with the aluminum, but mostly I did not want it blocking the light at all if possible.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7142468#post7142468 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Yes one side of the eggcrate is "thick" and the other "thin". If you look at metal diffusers the same is true. Very little information is available about these things... some people asy that the "wedge" shaped grid runners are top help it pop out of the injection mold. However, a study of high tech light panels will show that it is a design parameter.

From my understanding FAT side towards the light causes the light reflected off the water to be bounced back off of the grid, while still allowing light to penetrate from above, as well as guiding the shallow angled light. THIN towards the light causes a more of the light to be lost and less to be reflected back to the water from underneath. If anybody has any hard studies or data on this it would be great. We may want to move it to another thread in fairness to the OP.

Bean

guy in this thread did some tests and thin side up seemed to work best.
/shrug
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=426618&highlight=eggcrate

this project is much cooler though : )
nice work!!!
 
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HEY,

QUESTION WITH THE CLEAR NETTING...WHEN YOU USE LUNER LIGHTS DOES IT GIVE YOU THAT NETTING LOOK IN THE TANK.

EJ
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9316272#post9316272 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ej1698
HEY,

QUESTION WITH THE CLEAR NETTING...WHEN YOU USE LUNER LIGHTS DOES IT GIVE YOU THAT NETTING LOOK IN THE TANK.

EJ

it shouldnt,




i am useing seran wrapp temp over my tank till i can find the screen. wouldnt want my new fairy wrasse pair to jump!
 
Saran wrap??
Is this fitted tightly to the tank?
Wouldn't that create problems with gaseous exchange?
Just curious.
Guy
 
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