Clearview lid

Wazzel said:
Need to decide on what spline to use since there are a few to choose from. Either a regular slot or dove tail slot the same or one size smaller is what I would use. Using a dremel should not be an issue.
Click to expand...

That is a consideration. I think a 1/8" x 1/8" might work. Most of my dremel bits seem to be that diameter. I measure a screen that I had and it appears to be a 1/8" channel.

It will be a slow process using a dremel because of the heat gumming things up. Probable would have to take in multiple passes. That's why I was curious how lilphil26 did his. Don't want to reinvent the wheel.
 
I have one but that is a dangerous proposition with poly-carbonate. It could easily get jammed and break/splinter. The plastic company would not even consider a groove at 1" from the edge for safety reasons. At least that is what they told me.
 
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JTL said:
Waiting to hear how you cut the groove and what size it is. I don't have a router so I would have to figure out how to do it with a dremel.
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I cut the groove with a table saw actually. I ended up cleaning it up with a router so it was a cleaner cut. Set the table saw up to whatever depth of cut you want, and pass it through. I always keep a few pieces of scrap around for first cuts. Like someone else said, the table saw blade is 1/8 of an inch wide. I had to widen it just a margin to fit the spline. If I could do it again, which I will be actually because I just bought a red Sea reefer 170, I will use a piece of 3/8 lexan but cut it from a big sheet instead of strips. The strips are cheaper but not as strong after gluing. I bought a ridgid laminate trimmer, aka compact router. It was cheap, is cordless and allows for a much nicer job than the table saw. Any questions shoot me a pm
 
JTL said:
I have one but that is a dangerous proposition with poly-carbonate. It could easily get jammed and break/splinter. The plastic company would not even consider a groove at 1" from the edge for safety reasons. At least that is what they told me.
Click to expand...

Setting up the table saw properly avoids it getting jammed. I use a non ferrous blade for my acrylic and polycarbonate cuts. Works like a charm.
 
lilphil26 said:
Setting up the table saw properly avoids it getting jammed. I use a non ferrous blade for my acrylic and polycarbonate cuts. Works like a charm.
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So you just set the depth at 1/8" and it cuts the channel without gumming up? I also have a router attachment for my dremel, but need to figure out what bit to use.

I ordered the material. I also was a little concerned about the strength of the joints. Did you break any of them?
 
JTL said:
So you just set the depth at 1/8" and it cuts the channel without gumming up? I also have a router attachment for my dremel, but need to figure out what bit to use.

I ordered the material. I also was a little concerned about the strength of the joints. Did you break any of them?
Click to expand...


Depending on the blade you are running. What are you using? Either a high tooth count carbide or a plastic blade is best. I've heard plywood blades work too
 
I have a plywood blade, but if I need something else I will need to get one. HD has a 90 tooth carbide blade for plastics. How about the joints, are they holding up?
 
lilphil26 said:
The joints don't hold up as well as I would like. I have had one fail and had to reglue it. Another reason I'm cutting my new lid from a single piece. I will find the link to the blade I use.

Here ya go.

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p....Gb1G3SgoJWZHgNlUapKq1X4ojFPYymgRoCT7AQAvD_BwE
Click to expand...

That is the blade I saw only in the 10". I am trying to change my order to 1/4" strips and 1/8" strips so that I can laminate them to get 3/8" and over lap the corners. Should be a lot stronger corner joint.
 
JTL said:
That is the blade I saw only in the 10". I am trying to change my order to 1/4" strips and 1/8" strips so that I can laminate them to get 3/8" and over lap the corners. Should be a lot stronger corner joint.
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It's actually the 10 inch I have in a DeWalt table saw. You won't get a very nice looking finished product trying to laminate that. You are better off using 3/8 strips with small pieces of 1/8 right at the miter joint to strengthen it. Remember you can't glue polycarbonate to acrylic with weldon 16.
 
Have you ever cut acrylic or polycarbonate with a table saw? Acrylic cuts totally different than polycarbonate. Acrylic suffers from melting and other things
 
lilphil26 said:
It's actually the 10 inch I have in a DeWalt table saw. You won't get a very nice looking finished product trying to laminate that. You are better off using 3/8 strips with small pieces of 1/8 right at the miter joint to strengthen it. Remember you can't glue polycarbonate to acrylic with weldon 16.
Click to expand...

I planned on using WO 4 not 16. The material is all polycarb. Laminating most likely will have air pockets. I am going to butt joint the ends not 45, A corner gusset might work, a lot more surface area.
 
lilphil26 said:
Have you ever cut acrylic or polycarbonate with a table saw? Acrylic cuts totally different than polycarbonate. Acrylic suffers from melting and other things
Click to expand...

Never have. I have acrylic with a wet saw and it still melts a little, really melts using a dremel. I ask the plastic supplier if they would cut a channel, no go for safety reasons.
 
JTL said:
Never have. I have acrylic with a wet saw and it still melts a little, really melts using a dremel. I ask the plastic supplier if they would cut a channel, no go for safety reasons.
Click to expand...

If you're new to cutting it just practice a bit on scrap first, so you don't turn your work into scrap. If using weldon 4 you should have a perfect edge, like what a router does, or a planer.
 
I read that WO 16 is no substitute for a good edge, in fact not as good as WO 4. I planned on sanding the edges to fit perfect.
 
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