Clevengergl's 475+ Gallon In-Wall System & Fish Room Build!!!

[Untamed12]

I'm just thinking about how much SW you want to be mixing at any time and how you get the RODI water for mixing it.

Typically, people make a larger FW storage container and a smaller mixer...you are the other way 'round. As is, you'll have only 32 gallons of purified water ready at any moment. (Unless you are feeding your mixer directly from the RODI...and are planning to keep large quantities of mixed SW just sitting there. I wouldn't advise that)

For example, I have 100 gallons of RODI FW storage. When I want to mix SW, I take what I need to mix (usually 50 gallons worth) and mix. In an emergency, I could make 100 gallons of SW immediately.

 

[clevengergl]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13764730#post13764730 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Untamed12
Why not elevate your water top-off reservoir? Water pressure through the RODI unit will put the water up there, then you can use gravity to deliver it down to your sump. You can also then use gravity to feed it to your SW mix chamber.

If you are concerned about using only a float to control your evap replacement, you can put a solenoid in line as a failsafe.

Water pressure and gravity are still free...might as well take advantage of them!

Thanks for the responses, Untamed12! So you're saying instead of purchasing an ATO unit with pump and sensors, just elevate the ATO reservoir with a drain line pumbed in and connected to a float switch within the sump? That's actually a pretty cool idea, and you don't have to worry about a pump failing or anything! My only concern would be the amount of FW top-off coming in at any given time. With the electronic ATOs they seem to be a bit more precise and provide a consistent, slow flow of water to keep the sump at the proper level. With this method, the float would have to fall substantially in order to open the valve, which would then require a deluge of FW to bring it back to the appropriate level. Wouldn't that method possibly cause greater shifts in pH and salinity as opposed to a slowevap replacement with an ATO unit (i.e. Osmolator, etc.)?

If it won't have a huge impact, I'm all for it. Cheaper, after all!

 

[clevengergl]

Regarding the SW storage, I think I see what you're saying. I had been worried about storing that much SW for a long period of time, too, but hadn't ever seen anything specifically advising against it. Since my total system volume will most likely be approaching 500 gallons, would it make more sense to keep that large container full of FW in the event I need to do an emergency 50% water change? I must admit, though, the thing's wonderful when first filling the tank. I just mix it all in that reservoir, get it up to temp and then pump it into the display. Fills up pretty quick with the old, beat-up Sequence 5100 I have connected to it!

 

[erics3000]

Whee areyou going to put your equipment..Skimmer ..Reactors and such

 

[clevengergl]

I made some updates to the stand so you can see the setup. I'll have a 55 gal sump directly behind the main display tank. This unit will have my MSX300 skimmer and all my chemical media and reactors. It will be fed by a separate HOB overflow next to the primary overflow. It will then be plumbed to gravity drain into the larger sumps below it. Here's an updated pic:

 

[PaulieWalnuts]

nice lookin following this one

 

[erics3000]

With all that work why don't you just drill the tank and put in a bulk head. Less chance for disaster than a hang on back. You can buy the diamond drill bits on ebay pretty cheap.

 

[PaulieWalnuts]

i was going to say that.......everything else looks good though.

 

[clevengergl]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13773908#post13773908 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by erics3000
With all that work why don't you just drill the tank and put in a bulk head. Less chance for disaster than a hang on back. You can buy the diamond drill bits on ebay pretty cheap.

I thought about that and my wife actually mentioned it, but the thought of accidently shattering the tank made me a little queasy!

As far as drilling, would it work to just drill a hole in the back glass and then elbow PVC from the bulkhead straight into the smaller sump behind it? The hole would probably need to be near the top, right? Level with the teeth of the existing overflow?

Thanks for the ideas, guys. Helping to get the wheels turning!

 

[clevengergl]

Is it difficult to drill a tank? This one is 1/2" glass, so not sure what kind of skill level that takes. Also, I've heard you can't drill tempered glass. Any way for me to tell if it's tempered?

 

[erics3000]

You don't want to drill the bottom. It most likely is tempered glass. There should be a bunch of info in the diy forum. It is not hard. Just go slow and make sure you have water continuously to cool the bit,

 

[clevengergl]

Cool! I may just have to do that, then! Thanks Eric!

 

[~sp0ok~]

looking good

 

[Ratpack]

Wow, what an awesome setup this is going to be.

 

[~sp0ok~]

any new update???????

 

[clevengergl]

Sorry guys.......this is a lazy man's build! Actually, I'm still trying to get the garage finished out and I'm setting my sights toward the stand build. While first considering wood, then steel, I think I may have finally decided on Aluminum!!! As circumstances would have it, I just ran across a pretty sweet deal on several 16 foot lengths of 2" X 2" 11-guage aluminum square tube. The local store is charging $30/piece so with 8 pieces needed I'd be looking at around $257 with tax. This is compared to 1.5" X 1.5" 11-guage steel at a cost of around $270 for slightly less material!!! Needless to say, I'm pretty excited about the possibility of aluminum. The larger size of the aluminum tubing combined with it being substantially lighter than steel have me sold. Only thing to make sure of now is that my welder friend is comfortable welding the stuff! Well, that's all the updates I've got for now. I'll keep you posted!

 

[frog.pauley]

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Hello, I am a steel worker, i work in a machine shop 10hrs a day, IMO, 11g. allum...I wouldn't trust this...I build alot of canopies and such for rockfall safety...11 g. is only about 1/8 in. thick...Again i am not an engineer, but is that gonna be strong enough? Even to stand on 11 g...my 190 lb will make it give...

 

[clevengergl]

Thanks for the post, frog.pauley! I believe 11g is what most folks have been going with when building their stands. Here's a thread I've been following as well and there are a few Aluminum stands out there as well. Here's the design I'll most likely be going with, so it should be fairly strong. Is 11g aluminum not as strong as 11g steel?

 

[frog.pauley]

I spoke with my boss who also keeps a marine tank, the welder, and machinist. All were mixed decisions...but after seeing the drawing...i believe you could park a car on that! I am planning my build now...96x48x40...trying to overbuild as it will be plywood and glass. I am positive on one thing...alluminum would not be cost effective for me! lol :rollface:

 

[xXReefXx]

nice!! cant wait to see it in the feature!!