Clown fish breeding help

A fuge is not going to lower your nitrates by that much unless u have a baseball field of macro.

Water changes and feeding more carefully will solve your problem without spending money :-)
 
I have had a fish tank my whole life but it hasn't been until 6 years ago I really got into the hobby. I want to get my nitrates lower so I'm getting ready to get a refugium for my tank and with my research says it should lower it to almost 0 ppm. I'm not sure what you mean by husbandry. All my permitters are constant at good levels except for my nitrates.

Husbandry techniques would be your maintenance practices. Water changes, feeding practices, how often you top off water if you don't do that automatically, how often you do water testing, what you test for, etc. It includes how you maintain whatever type of filtration you run. For example, if running a fuge or ATS, how often you harvest/export. If running filter socks, how often you change them. It should probably also include practices for syphoning/removing detritus buildup, and blowing off rock work an from detritus buildup.
 
I bought a phosphate tester today so when I wake up tomorrow morning I'm going to test all my levels and then tell you
 
Calcium 480 ppm
Carbonate/ alkalinity 143.2 ppm
Ph 8.0
Ammonia .25 ppm
Nitrite 0 ppm
Nitrate 160 ppm
Phosphate 1.0 ppm
 
Phosphate is high (deadly if you have corals) as well and you should have no ammonia.

LOOK AT YOUR FEEDING AND WATER CHANGE SCHEDULE.

Lol I'm done with this thread
 
How is that deadly to corals it's low on my scale (which goes to 10 ppm) maybe dangerous but I don't think it's deadly because my corals are thriving. How am I supposed to lower my phosphate ammonia, and my nitrates. Any suggestions? what about my light schedule because I have lots of hair algae growth should I lower the amount of time my light is on? It's on for 12 hours.
 
Hair algae will thrive in an environment of that high NO3 and PO4. Both of those levels are very high and Mr Clowns is correct, there should be no NH3 present, it is toxic and posses immediate danger to the health of your inhabitants. I would double check your NH3 test kit by testing some RO or distilled water or something you know doesn't have ammonia. Mr Clowns is also right about the water changes (and maybe correct about feeding too). You NEED to start doing some water changes. Your inhabitants may be surviving, but I can assure you that they are not thriving in those conditions.

If you are truly interested in making some changes to make your system more healthy, then I will offer my help. You can PM me or we can continue on this thread. However, if you are simply against doing water changes and thinking you can find some magical filtration method to do all the work of keeping a fish tank for you, then I can't help... no one can. If you truly want help, post the details of your system as well as maintenance practices, and I can try (if you truly want help) but again - water changes are going to be a big part of it.

And back on topic, honestly, I don't know what those limits are going to be where your fish might start spawning.. but my goal would be (is - and should be for you) to do what I can to optimize the health and quality of my system and water to make sure my inhabitants are healthy and strong. Again - only then will you be able to even start thinking about breeding.
 
Ok my tank is a 10 gallon with 2 pairs of clowns (this is temporary until I get my 20 up and running), a pair of breeding coral banded shrimp, a 2 head frogspwan (so to be 3), an acan with 5 heads, 2 zooanthids frags, a huge coral colony the size of a softball (not sure what it is), and just bought a ricodiea yesterday. I use a hang on the back filter with a bio balls and filter cartridge not sure if it has carbon but it probably does. My lights are on for 12 hours. And I don't do water changes at all which is ironic because I live a block away from the Atlantic.
 
Ok my tank is a 10 gallon with 2 pairs of clowns (this is temporary until I get my 20 up and running), a pair of breeding coral banded shrimp, a 2 head frogspwan (so to be 3), an acan with 5 heads, 2 zooanthids frags, a huge coral colony the size of a softball (not sure what it is), and just bought a ricodiea yesterday. I use a hang on the back filter with a bio balls and filter cartridge not sure if it has carbon but it probably does. My lights are on for 12 hours. And I don't do water changes at all which is ironic because I live a block away from the Atlantic.

lol.. man, I'd take advantage of that ocean if I were you!! I've always thought how cool it'd be to live on the ocean, and pipe in real ocean water ... I'd have a HUGE system.

How long has this tank been up? Are we seeing NH3 because we are still in the initial cycle, maybe? What you explain is not that much bio load... How much live rock or dry rock (where'd you get it)? substrate/sand? How much do you feed? How much flow do you have?

Do you know what the model of your HOB filter is so I can look up exactly what it is? Any GAC/carbon filter by this point at 150+ NO3 has probably long been used up.

@ 10 gallons, or even 20 it is very easy to do 10 or 20% water change every couple weeks (or even weekly), and you will see a difference in your system. Get a 5gal bucket, 5 ft of ~1/2" tubing, and a 5 gal water jug. 1) start by SLOWLY matching your salinity in your tank to the ocean (your water source) over the period of several days if there is any difference to start with. Once you match salinity to that of your water source, your goal is to keep it there (hopefully with daily fresh water additions of RO/DI or disitilled water - not conditioned tap water). 2) fill up your 5 gal water jug with ocean water and drop a heater in for several hours to match tank temperature. 3) use a sharpie to mark gallon measurements in your 5 gallon bucket so you know how much is in the bucket at any point in time. 4) syphon out desired amount of water from your tank into the 5 gallon bucket. 5) Replace water with fresh sea water which should now match temperature and salinity. You can gently dump it into your tank over a piece of rock, or set up a bucket above the tank, somehow, and use some 1/4" airline or something to syphon it into the tank - just be careful not to overflow! If I syphoned - I'd probably get a funnel and a couple 1gal water jugs to syphon from so I didn't overflow my tank (because I'm forgetful)

If you have a lot of GHA, I'd probably pull out what you can regularly. During your syphoning for water changes you might also be able to suck out some GHA and or detritus buildup on and in between rocks or sand. Try not to let detritus sit in your system - as this desolves and turns into NO3 and PO4. Also note GHA traps detritus. Be patient with the GHA... it takes a long time to go away even after nutrients are very low.

How were you planning to introduce a refugium?
 
I was planing on have a second modified HOB with miracle mud and some macro algae in it. It has been setup since April so a little more then 7 months. No I know it cycled because I tried to add fish right away 8 months ago and all the fish I put in died within a week, once I figured out why I went LFS and bought some bottle that had live bacteria in it to make it cycle quicker and since then have had no problem with my levels until I got more fish (at the time I only had one pair of clowns). I got my start up water and sand from the beach/ocean. I feed flakes (omega one) once a day and I put about 2 pinches in. All I have is the one filter for flow that is why I want to set up the second HOB filter so I get more flow. I'm not sure the brand of the filter but is meant to be used in 40-60 gallon tank and yes it has carbon in it. I pull out the GHA about once a month maybe every 3 weeks whenever it would get bad. Getting water isn't hard all I do is bring a bucket when I go to the beach which is often during the summer (but around this time of year the water is to cold to enjoy it but the waves are big enough to go surfing, which I don't do, or kayak surfing which is lots of fun). I also enjoy scuba diving, the reef by my house is awesome and I have looked up the rules and you can collect fish for recreation and that is how I got the pair of coral banded shrimp. I have a 40 gallon and a 20 gallon that I am going to set up soon. The 40 is going to be a quarantine tank until my clowns start breeding hen it will become a grow out and the 20 will be a brood stock tank for on pair of my clowns leaving my 10 for my other pair. I bought a phosphate reducer at the LFS but he said my ammonium is at an ok level as long as it doesn't go any higher.
 
I'm doing a 50% water change today so hopefully that takes care of my permitters. I will keep doing this every other day for the next week and check my permitters again next weekend.
 
One thing to remember is not to change things too drastically too fast. Again, try to match temp and salinity. 1 - 50% water change is probably okay to get started! but I would take it slow after that, with 20% changes... Then keeping up that routine ( of regular water changes bi weekly or so) and it should help you immensely! Especially if you try to syphoning out the detritus and crud each time.

As far as a 'phosphate reducer' what is it? Be very cautious about chemical additions, and IMO any LFS owners that push them for regular use ( depending on what they are).

GAC (activated carbon) can be a good thing... But gets used up and would need replaced semi regularly. IMO, it's to use on as needed basis, since it could potentially strip the water too much if one kept up on changing the filter regularly. Yours is probably not doing much other than performing some mechanical filtration at this point unless it's changed.

The HOB style refugium sounds like a cool idea.. How big is the area that will grow algae? How do you plan to light it?

If you have plans of adding more tanks... You might consider drilling your tanks and adding them to the same system with a shared sump. You can have shared equipment like heaters and filtration, and a nice area for refugium in a sump. You'd be able to easily expand filtration like a skimmer or filter socks or whatever you wanted later too. There is added benefit to increased water volume as we'll.

Keep an eye on that nh3.. And good luck!
 
The phosphate reducer is called "phosblaster" by reef results marine. The HOB refugium is not big it's an old HOB filter that I am repurposing it will have enough room for some miracle mud and a baseball sized ball of macro algae but I'm nut sure which on it should be. Want to have them all plumbed together but only have limited space and scattered in my room so it can be done but would be difficult.
 
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