Clown QT for Dummies

WDLV

Skunk Hybrid Freak
Clown QT for Dummies

This subject comes up a lot on all the forums I frequent, and when it doesn't, there's usually an unhappy reefer somewhere and at least one fewer clown in the world. In an attempt to do my part to promote the hobby, I'm posting this everywhere I frequent....

Materials:
10 gallon tank.
Air Pump and Air Stone - OR - a HOB filter.
Appropriately sized heater
PVC fittings big enough to hide in
El Cheapo glass thermometer.
Bottle of Amquel
Bottle of Formalin III
Egg crate or other plastic screen to cover the top
Hydrometer
½ Pint deli container.

Day one:
Install the heater, HOB filter and thermometer. Do not use any carbon in the filter. Fill the tank half way with tank water (1.023-1.025). Catch the fish with the plastic deli container (think slow moving like a jellyfish.) not using a net will help reduce the chance of scratching off the immune aiding slime coat and scales of the fish. Add the fish to the QT tank. Slowly add fresh water until you reach a SG of 1.009 taking care to maintain temperature. An hour for this process is plenty slow. When you reach 1.009.
Your tank should be about full. Fudge the difference to reach the water mark on the heater. Adjust your heater so the water is at a constant 76F-78F.
Add 1mL/Gallon Formalin III to the tank and 0.5mL/Gallon Amquel.

Day two:
Change 50% of the tank water with pre-mixed, pre heated water at 1.009 SG and be sure to add the appropriate dosage of Formalin III and Amquel before adding it to the tank. You should be using freshly made salt water at this point to avoid adding pathogens to the QT. Do this for the first week and twice a week thereafter. Be sure to scrape and syphon off everything from the bottom and sides of the tank to keep cysts at bay. Another option is to swap tanks and clean them out with tap water daily. After the first week you can cut back to twice a week water changes as long as the water continues to look clear. You can clean the filter pads with a heavy jet of tap water or change it out daily if you prefer. I would keep the newcomers in this treatment for at least a month.

Your primary concern is Brooklynella hostilis (brook), your secondary concern is Amyloodinium (velvet), your third concern is Cryptocarion irritans (ick.) I make no claims to my spelling accuracy. 
The hyposalinity is to make the paracites expand so fast trying to reach osmotic balance that they explode. The Formalin III is the best known treatment for brook, which will kill your fish the fastest of the three mentioned. It is a mediocre treatment for velvet and is about the same with ick but it is effective for a long term treatment. If you insist, you can switch over to the copper treatment of your choice a week or so after starting this regamin. Be sure to get all the formalin out before doing this. I would also recommend ramping up the copper treatment rather than reaching the full dose all at once.
The three paracites mentioned above all attack the gills first. That's why you see the fish breathing fast and "flashing" before you see any other symptoms. It is also why fish often die while the aquariest is busy looking up the weird skin lesions they just noticed.

This will not save every fish but it has about a 90% or better success rate with new arrivals and about a 75% success rate with mildly sick fish. I exclude the outliars (A. nigripes.) They ship like water in a burlap bag.
This is my version of a treatment recommended to me by a fellow reefer while my leucs were sick and laying on their side with brook. I still have them a year later.
Good luck and feed them flake or pellet food like you're starving them to keep down Ammonia. If they get a bite or two each, they're fine.

I am not responsible if your fish dies. This is a wonderful and sometimes tough hobby. You assume your own financial and emotional risks by indulging in it. My hope is that some of you will use this as a means of finding your own method that works best for you.

Good luck and happy reefing!
 
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I thought I should point out that the dosages that I've been using are not consistant with the recommendations on the bottles of Formalin III and Amquel. I have not witnessed any ill effects from using it this way, but if you want to use as directed on the bottle I would go for the max dose recommended. Which are:
Formalin III - 2mL/10 gallons.
Amquel - 0.5mL/10 gallons.
 
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I am using this for everything but it is focused on clowns. If you want to get more encompassing, I would consider a dewormer. For now all I'm using is garlic enriched spectra pellet food to combat potential worms.
I would advise looking into different groups of fish like tangs as a whole or angels as a whole and determining what type of ailments are most common with them. I know Tangs are highly succeptable to ick, so cuppramine might be a better prophylactic treatment. Angels are also succeptable to brook, but I don't know if there's something that is more of a problem with them. My general philosophy is that we should be treating as a precaution for the two or three most deadly diseases for each particular group.
As I get back into other fascets of my hobby (in the more distant future) I will likely put more of a focus on other groups of fish.

One thing I wanted to broadcast is that the suggestion that was made to me on use of Formalin III was to use as directed with the max dose recommended and dose every other day for six days. In this case you would dose 2mL/10 gallons on day one. On day three you would do a 25% water change and dose another 2mL/10 gallons. Repeat on day five. On day six, they would be ready for the main system.
I chose to increase the dose and start treating for a longer period of time in the hopes of eliminating paracites such as ick and amyloodinium. In all honesty I do not like copper because I do not like water testing and I believe it is imperative to test the levels of copper to avoid overdosing the tank. Copper does not get absorbed as readily by a dirtier tank (proteins) or evaporate into the air like formalin does. In every case I have been able to eliminate ick using hyposalinity. "Eliminate" is kind of subjective though. I believe that ick and amyloodinium are always present in a system that they've been exposed to and it's really no different in my mind than the bacteria that live on our skin. We live in harmony until something weakens our immune system like stress or an open wound. The treatment is simply the equivalent of taking an antibiotic to reduce the population so that your natural immunity can kick it out and regain it's strength.
I'm neither an MD or a Veterinarian. So, take the analogy with a grain of salt. ;)

BTW, if anyone wants to share what QT method has worked for them, please feel free to do so.
 
So you are leaving the clowns in the medicated QT tank for a full day at 1.009? They actually survive the low salinity level for that long, or did I miss something?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12402835#post12402835 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by WDLV
I have left them that way for weeks at a time with no ill effects.

Interesting, yet confusing at the same time. I had no idea they could tolerate such low salinity for an extended period of time. I assumed anything under 1.019 = death. I ask because I read a patent someone proposed who wanted to be able to keep fresh/brackish water fish with marine fish. Basically you would have two tanks, one fresh and one salt; then you would slowly increase the salinity of the fresh tank little by little until it reached 1.009, and slowly decrease the salinity in the salt tank to 1.011. Then of course you would introduce the once salt now brackish fish into the once fresh now brackish tank. The recommended species for test were of course chromis and damsels, possibly clowns. I assume he wanted to do this with either central/south american cichlids or african cichlids since they are somewhat cousins. This is probably of topic, but that is why this thread coaght my eye.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12402835#post12402835 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by WDLV
I have left them that way for weeks at a time with no ill effects.

Interesting, yet confusing at the same time. I had no idea they could tolerate such low salinity for an extended period of time. I assumed anything under 1.019 = death. I ask because I read a patent someone proposed who wanted to be able to keep fresh/brackish water fish with marine fish. Basically you would have two tanks, one fresh and one salt; then you would slowly increase the salinity of the fresh tank little by little until it reached 1.009, and slowly decrease the salinity in the salt tank to 1.011. Then of course you would introduce the once salt now brackish fish into the once fresh now brackish tank. The recommended species for test were of course chromis and damsels, possibly clowns. I assume he wanted to do this with either central/south american cichlids or african cichlids since they are somewhat cousins. This is probably of topic, but that is why this thread caught my eye.
 
Sorry for the double post, I tried to delete the 1st one but got a message saying I did not have permission to do so. Could a moderator please delete the one, and this one too.
 
I have a friend who has had some prized angels and tangs living in hypo for well over a year.
The patented device sounds kinda silly. Brackish fish can generally go in either salt or fresh. In fact, it was a FW Indian Dwarf Puffer that I used to cycle my first reef tank 11 years ago.

BTW, I hear Minot is a great duty station. Not for the weather but for the housing and comradarie.... I had a USAF buddy who used to rave about it all the time.
 
What's "hypo"? Minot is great for raising a family, no crime. If you don't like ice fishing or upland hunting, you'll be bored. That's the only thing that keeps me sane and occupied, Pheasant, Grouse, Partridge, Turkey, Duck, Geese. I mainly hunt Sharptail and Pheasant, not so much waterfowl or turkey.
 
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