Complete DIY Custom 144x15x15

[therealbobbyt]

I try to track down my build pics tonight. I built a stick framework that was wrapped in fiberglass and coated with resin. I then skinned the framework with the luan. At the gaps where the joints were I used the bondo, then I resined all exposed areas. The only place that I used fiberglass actually on the luan was on the 2 access doors on the front of the canopy. Keep in mind, this was a bowfront, so the doors had to be curved. After forming the curve on the doors (i used a couple of tie down straps from my truck bed) I layered fiberglass and resin on the interior of the doors. The fiberglass help the thin luan hold it's shape.

 

[calvin415]

So here's what it would look like wrapped with luon and painted black... The ends would also be solid black, but it would be tough to see the detail in the rendering if I showed that black as well so I left it un"painted".

 

[therealbobbyt]

That might be a little tight of a radius for luan. A birch veneer may be a better bet. If I were you, I'd take a little trip to the HD or Lowe's and get tactile with the different thin plywoods, get a better idea of how far you can go with it.

Pics on the way....

 

[melev]

How would you access the ballasts? From the underside?

 

[calvin415]

Hey Marc, yes I would have to remove the bottom plywood to access the ballasts... The ply itself will have the T5 endcaps mounted to it anyway so it will act as one system. Just have to install fans in the box to help circulate air in and out through the top of the canopy.

 

[melev]

Since you are creating it yourself, perhaps you could make some type of tabbed access door to easily extract one when needed, rather than having to pull down the entire fixture for a minor snafu.

 

[calvin415]

Sure, it wouldnt' be hard to do, but I'd still have to pull the bulbs out to get to the access door.

I just checked on-line and Lowes doesn't carry 1/8" cabinet grade plywood at our locations... WTH? Guess I'll have to try Home Depot (online store sucks) in person and hope they have it. If not, might have to hit the table saw with 1/4" for some shallow cuts.

 

[spsfreak]

hmmm, interesting. I am actually building my stand and had to go to Lowes for the skin. I noticed the one here had 1/4" and 1/8" thick "hardwood" ply - birch and oak.

 

[jnb]

What the dimensions of the fixture so far? -

I hope the plywood is fastened in such a way that it has no way to twist/contort AT ALL - I have plywood in my garage and if I went out there right now - it would be other than perfectly flat and you don't want it to contort such that there is much tolerance in the endcaps/bulbs fitting. Just a caution. Did you figure on using a shield? If not, the plywood on the inside may be drier than the plywood directly over the water which would make it think about warp a little.

Most people, and I understand our variety, go for minimalism if they can - so I have to ask why you are increasing the height of your fixture by way of its shape - my ATI T-5 fixture is 2.25 inches high.

I wonder what 3 layers of stainless or aluminum window screen would be like as a cover - once installed - painted with a few coats of clear poly or resin to sort of fill the mesh a bit to make it less impervious to dust, etc. Or if you decor allows copper or bronze or black or the poly could be of color.

 

[EnderG60]

actually if your going for a stretched fabric look..why not just use fiberglass?

you can use the cloth to stretch over your frame and when you get it how you like it, just resin it up, add another layer of cloth and sand and paint.

wont have to worry about heat either.

 

[rick rottet]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13687927#post13687927 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by calvin415
Issue is finding any of that stuff in 12' lengths... The plastic comes in 25' rolls. Gives me two tries for 50 bucks. Way cheaper than any other options. Rick, what materials would it stick to best? I was planning on just using a plywood for the ribs, but if it will stick better to another material, I can change it out.

in general, the softer/ more porous the wood, the better the adhesive penetrates when heated. we used mostly balsa for plane construction, but used spruce for the center spars on wings.
i'm sure whatever you decide to do, it will come out nice.

 

[calvin415]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13691663#post13691663 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnb
What the dimensions of the fixture so far? -

I hope the plywood is fastened in such a way that it has no way to twist/contort AT ALL - I have plywood in my garage and if I went out there right now - it would be other than perfectly flat and you don't want it to contort such that there is much tolerance in the endcaps/bulbs fitting. Just a caution. Did you figure on using a shield? If not, the plywood on the inside may be drier than the plywood directly over the water which would make it think about warp a little.

Most people, and I understand our variety, go for minimalism if they can - so I have to ask why you are increasing the height of your fixture by way of its shape - my ATI T-5 fixture is 2.25 inches high.

I wonder what 3 layers of stainless or aluminum window screen would be like as a cover - once installed - painted with a few coats of clear poly or resin to sort of fill the mesh a bit to make it less impervious to dust, etc. Or if you decor allows copper or bronze or black or the poly could be of color.

Looking at 141 x 15 x 8, and I planned on using lots of wood glue and brads to hold everything together and then seal it all with primer. The plywood on the outside along with the ply that wraps the edges will likely get a combo of resin and bondo to give a clean and jointed look before being painted. I have to increase the height to accomodate the ballast. The bulbs will run end to end to end the full length and it's the only place they can go (above the bulbs). I'm not sure how the ATI works, but the IceCap endcaps are almost 3" tall all by themself. No way to get this thing that slim. There won't be any shielding, it's not needed IMO. Screen would give a rather rough finish, which I'm not looking for.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13691686#post13691686 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by EnderG60
actually if your going for a stretched fabric look..why not just use fiberglass?

you can use the cloth to stretch over your frame and when you get it how you like it, just resin it up, add another layer of cloth and sand and paint.

wont have to worry about heat either.

That was my original idea, but was talked out of it, but a lot of people that felt it would be rather expensive and risky. I've never worked with fiberglass before and if it didn't turn out right, I'd be out a bit of dough which would really set me back.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13691963#post13691963 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rick rottet
in general, the softer/ more porous the wood, the better the adhesive penetrates when heated. we used mostly balsa for plane construction, but used spruce for the center spars on wings.
i'm sure whatever you decide to do, it will come out nice.

Thanks! I'm still up in the air, but I think a ply might be the safer option right now, the last thing I want to do it accidently poke a hold in my canopy and have to redo it... I really appreciate the thought and I really felt it was going to be the solution but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough in the long term.

 

[rick rottet]

that is a good consideration. holes are pretty difficult to fix, with the patch trying to shrink over the top of an already shrunk original. only option to keep it looking really nice is, like you stated, redo the whole thing.

 

[therealbobbyt]

If you do go with the ply, make sure to resin the entire fixture. This will help to avoid any expansion/contraction issues.

 

[calvin415]

Thanks Bobby. What resin did you use? I've been looking at Tap Plastics, but not sure what I should actually be buying... Also, not sure how much I need to buy? Did you bondo first or after the resin?

 

[therealbobbyt]

Cal,

I just purchased the resin and fiberglass that HD stocks. Can't remember the name off hand. Most likely though it was just a re-packaged 3M product. You can buy it in quart and gallon sizes, and it will come with a hardner - mixes in two parts like an epoxy.

Check out the following link to get an idea of what you're in for. It's pretty simple once you get things rolling....

http://www.wikihow.com/Fiberglass-Something

 

[asmodeus]

WOW love the build lots of detail in there well done

 

[~sp0ok~]

nice tank...any update??????????????

 

[EnderG60]

fiberglass is like working with sticky, smelly paper mache. how is it risky? aside from huffing fumes that is.

go get some of the cloth, its not that expensive and staple it to your frame. if you like the shape that results, put on the resin. If you dont, remove the cloth and go another route.

even if you put 2 or 3 layers of cloth on it and use a full gallon of resin, you still wont be out more then $70 if you screw it up. and its not that hard to remove from a wood frame(as long as its not MDF or some crap like that)

who ever is telling you its expensive and risky, has never delt with fiberglass and is poor.

hell you can try wrapping the thing in tape or suran wrap to see if you like the shape and glass over the top of it, then just pop the hardened glass off and remove the tape or whatever and then screw your new shell back on.

 

[calvin415]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13693543#post13693543 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by therealbobbyt
Cal,

I just purchased the resin and fiberglass that HD stocks. Can't remember the name off hand. Most likely though it was just a re-packaged 3M product. You can buy it in quart and gallon sizes, and it will come with a hardner - mixes in two parts like an epoxy.

Check out the following link to get an idea of what you're in for. It's pretty simple once you get things rolling....

http://www.wikihow.com/Fiberglass-Something

Thanks bud, I'll see what I can find at HD.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13693952#post13693952 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by asmodeus
WOW love the build lots of detail in there well done

Thanks!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13694196#post13694196 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spookey
nice tank...any update??????????????

Yes, see previous posts.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13694241#post13694241 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by EnderG60
fiberglass is like working with sticky, smelly paper mache. how is it risky? aside from huffing fumes that is.

go get some of the cloth, its not that expensive and staple it to your frame. if you like the shape that results, put on the resin. If you dont, remove the cloth and go another route.

even if you put 2 or 3 layers of cloth on it and use a full gallon of resin, you still wont be out more then $70 if you screw it up. and its not that hard to remove from a wood frame(as long as its not MDF or some crap like that)

who ever is telling you its expensive and risky, has never delt with fiberglass and is poor.

hell you can try wrapping the thing in tape or suran wrap to see if you like the shape and glass over the top of it, then just pop the hardened glass off and remove the tape or whatever and then screw your new shell back on.

LOL! EnderG60 that's awesome, I love your thinking! LOL! I'll see what I can find locally and then go from there.