Complete DIY Custom 144x15x15

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Ok, finally some pics using plywood frame coated in fiberglass and resin, and finally the luan shell coated in bondo at the corners, then resined and painted...

Here's the canopy
63395fish009.jpg


Here's the corner where I used Bondo to fill the seams.
63395fish010.jpg


I wrapped the OSB framework in fiberglass with 2 layers. I know, it's a little sloppy looking, but I didn't think my fish would mind!
63395fish011.jpg


Here's another shot of the interior.
63395fish013.jpg


Here's a shot of the interior where I normally have 1 of 2 fans. I pull them when the weather changes or else it gets too cool. Also gives me an opp to clean out the grates.
63395fish001.jpg


Here's a pic of the top of the canopy. I've never used the top, because my original plan was to attached my new lighting system directly to it - haven't gotten around to making that purchase.
63395fish014.jpg


Here's a shot of the underside of the canopy top. I layered it with a reflective bubble filled insulation to help with the heat it's subjected to.
63395fish015.jpg
 
Checked out HD, and the only thing they have in 1/8" is that stuff they make peg board out of (no holes)... I'm really considering trying to run really long wires and putting the ballasts in the stand instead... I would love the look, but trying to keep track of 36 wires sounds like a bloody nightmare!!!

Here's design 3 if I can figure out a way to keep the wires clean...

 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13696845#post13696845 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by calvin415
Checked out HD, and the only thing they have in 1/8" is that stuff they make peg board out of (no holes)... I'm really considering trying to run really long wires and putting the ballasts in the stand instead... I would love the look, but trying to keep track of 36 wires sounds like a bloody nightmare!!!

Here's design 3 if I can figure out a way to keep the wires clean...


Calvin,if your gonna do the pendant thing,cant you mount the ballasts to the ceiling(lot shorter wires) and hang with some type of tubing and run the wires down through the tubes,you wouldn't be able to lift or lower the fixture easily but it could swing out so to work in the tank or on the lights?

this new design,looks sleek and modern,very nice:thumbsup:
 
Yeah, I was pretty shocked, but with the new design, flexibility isn't needed, but I'll probably have to double layer it to get to the 12' length and then to make it more rigid, slap on the fiberglass. I found the fiberglass at HD last night, but it's only 9sqft packages... I'll probably order the glass online, and just pick up the resin at HD.

For those with glassing experience, what glass do I want for good strength and what do I want to use for a really smooth final surface? Will 4 layers be enough?
 
Cal,

Check out this thread on getting a smooth finish on fiberglass.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103525

I too had issues with the Bondo. I had to apply a pretty thick layer and then sand like crazy. The joint compound method may be the way to go.....and cheap!

Question: If using the fiberglass, why not just make a mold to create the entire canopy out of the material? I'd be strong and very light....
 
Because I don't want to have to create a mold... Going 100% fiberglass will require lots more fiberglass to keep it firm which can be accomplished with ply for lots less. Weight shouldn't be that large of an issue, especially if I can pull the ballast out of the equation. Thanks for the link!
 
Yeah just do the shell in fiberglass. you can order larger roles of cloth online, but im not sure you need enough to make it worth while.

It really does not matter if the cloth is one price the whole length. and you may need some bondo to fill in some low spots and you will have to sand it to make it really smooth. But if you do it will look great.
 
Update time:

Closed Loop is water tested!!!



I'm impressed and suprised I don't have any plumbing leaks (yet)! I hope to drill the sumps soon and get the open loop tested as well but I have some small patch job that will require the tank to be drained first. The overflow has a tiny leak at bottom which if left as is will allow the entire tank to drain into the sump and onto the floor in the event of a long term power outage. :( I have my 42 gun loaned out right now, but will have it back by Saturday if I can get all the water out by then. ;)
 
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Here's design 3 if I can figure out a way to keep the wires clean...
If you stretch all the wires for one fixture out straight as long as you need them to be ,then put all the ends in the chuck of a drill where a bit goes ,tighten the chuck ,then slowly pull the drill trigger while holding the wires straight , the wires will wind together like a rope .The finished product looks very pro and is easy to route that way.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13713256#post13713256 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sassafrass
Here's design 3 if I can figure out a way to keep the wires clean...
If you stretch all the wires for one fixture out straight as long as you need them to be ,then put all the ends in the chuck of a drill where a bit goes ,tighten the chuck ,then slowly pull the drill trigger while holding the wires straight , the wires will wind together like a rope .The finished product looks very pro and is easy to route that way.

I think I found an even easier way. :D The 18ga wire that IceCap uses for the 660 is the same stuff that is used for sprinkler systems and thermostats. It's available in 6 wire bundles. :D I just run 6 sets down the side of the pendant and snake it down the 1" pipe through the overflow. Plus all the different colored wires will make it much easier to keep organized!!!
 
Make sure on that wire! Thermostats and sprinklers are considered low voltage applications. Your IceCaps are NOT low voltage wiring.
 
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