Complete DIY Custom 144x15x15

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Calvin,

look into the clear epoxy ... the stuff they use to seal restaurant tables ... ever see the tables that are 4" thick or so, and have maps/pictures/items inside a 3" thick epoxy?

They use it for bar tops a lot. Not sure on the price of this stuff... i know lowes sells small containers of it for a fortune ... if you can find it in industrial size container (1gal/5gal) it would probably be much cheaper.
 
Calvin,

do you have a 8' straight edge, or level that you can mark up exactly how far to the left/right you're out of level/sagging ?
 
Actually I have a 12' straight edge (the tank...) and I just flipped the tank and I guess it's not as bad as I originally thought... Measured this time and it is 3/16 on one side 1/4 on the other. Think lots of shims with a thin board and styro under it will work?
I think you can see the slight shadow in the pics below...

Here's some pics of the flip w/ my 3yr old.

I couldn't get any further away to try to get it all to fit, but that's almost 8' from left side to the seam (part un-masked) and then another 4' to the right side.
DSCN4370.jpg


I threw the top on it just to get an idea of how it will look.
DSCN4372.jpg


Reverse side.
DSCN4373.jpg


From the stairs coming down...
DSCN4382.jpg
 
Better yet, a thin board shimmed up enought to spray goodstuff under it and allow that to foam up to support it fully? So basically sandwich a thin board (like peg board but without the holes, not sure what it's called) with good stuff under it and styro over it all trimed to cover the gap? Thoughts?
 
It is called Masonite, and it might work but when that stuff gets wet, it kind of swells & rots. I'm thinking foam and shims will be fine. LOTS of shims, just fill it. If there is a hollow area in the center of the tank (front to back), you'll want something in there as well.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13081314#post13081314 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Harry_Fish
I'd love to do one this long but am to chicken to build it.

I'd be too scared it would leak
Click to expand...

Or glue yourself to it. ;)
 
i would personally go the route of self leveling cement...even at your thickest point it wont be difficult for a regular hole to drill through...(bit will be a little worse for wear afterward though)

then you put your 1/2" foam over the hole thing and i think you would be set...
 
We setup an 8 foot long 190 custom that was on a stand that had 5/16" approx. gap in the middle.

Here is what we did:

We use 1/2" stryofoam board from home depot then we used carpet foam on top of that.

The carpet foam smashed to almost nothing when the tank was full and filled in the gap.

The tank was up for 3 years until it was moved to another house and someone cracked it with an appliance hitting it while it was on the truck.

I didn't build the tank or stand, I just helped set it up. IIRC GC built the tank and a local cabinet maker built the stand.

dantimdad
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13081237#post13081237 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
It is called Masonite, and it might work but when that stuff gets wet, it kind of swells & rots. I'm thinking foam and shims will be fine. LOTS of shims, just fill it. If there is a hollow area in the center of the tank (front to back), you'll want something in there as well.
Click to expand...

Just stryo with shims? Okay cool. How would you suggest filling in the middle? Should I get a solid piece for the center area so it's solid where I can need a full 3/16" to ensure the middle is filled? Then just shim the area less than 3/16"? I'm sure the styro will take a lot of the imperfections, but any ideas on filling the middle on the rest? How thick should the styro be? 1/2" is what I'm thinking... Shouldn't need anything thicker should I?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13081825#post13081825 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NanoReefWanabe
i would personally go the route of self leveling cement...even at your thickest point it wont be difficult for a regular hole to drill through...(bit will be a little worse for wear afterward though)

then you put your 1/2" foam over the hole thing and i think you would be set...
Click to expand...

I would love to go that route, I'm just really paranoid about using "cement" Even the clear epoxy sounds safer to me... ???

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13082220#post13082220 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dantimdad
We setup an 8 foot long 190 custom that was on a stand that had 5/16" approx. gap in the middle.

Here is what we did:

We use 1/2" stryofoam board from home depot then we used carpet foam on top of that.

The carpet foam smashed to almost nothing when the tank was full and filled in the gap.

The tank was up for 3 years until it was moved to another house and someone cracked it with an appliance hitting it while it was on the truck.

I didn't build the tank or stand, I just helped set it up. IIRC GC built the tank and a local cabinet maker built the stand.

dantimdad
Click to expand...

Just afraid carpet pad won't provide enough support in the middle... :(
 
Could you use like chair/upholsterers foam in the center? There are different levels of firm that you can get- and you could cut it and "fade" out the sides were the extra support isnt needed.
 
I really hate to say it, but a self leveling options is actually starting to sound like the best option. :( I know I can get leveling cement at Home Depot, but man that really sounds scary... If I do this though, then I can just put the styro right on it. I think a shower liner first to keep it from ruining the drywall would be a good idea though. Any other self leveling options for 50 or under?
 
Levelling?

use plastic Playing cards, they're cheap - so even if you need hundred's that's only $5-10

Casino cards are not paper, they're acetate or acrylic.
make great shims!!!!!!!
A number of folks in my area have used them on 180G+ tanks
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13083304#post13083304 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Alphabet
you can use self leveling liquid and put a sheet of styrofoam right over the top. should do the trick.
Click to expand...

Preference of self leveling liquid?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13083305#post13083305 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Discustopia
Levelling?

use plastic Playing cards, they're cheap - so even if you need hundred's that's only $5-10

Casino cards are not paper, they're acetate or acrylic.
make great shims!!!!!!!
A number of folks in my area have used them on 180G+ tanks
Click to expand...

Definately a good idea, but I think in terms of keeping things from sliding around and shifting a self leveler might be the easiest route...
 
That picture with you son standing in the tank is cool! Something for him to look back on in 10 years. The tank is really coming along. Minor set back getting the stand level I see. I think your heading in the right direction with the self leveling compound. Or you could use the masonite mentioned above and seal it with epoxy to water proof it and then use the styrofoam. Up here in NH we also have a product that is used for sheathing on houses that is made out of recycled plastic. Its 1/8"thick. I think its called therma ply. I believe they have it in 3/16" now as well. I used it on a shed. Not sure if they have anything like that out there but its made for the outdoors. Alot of guys use it on there Ice fishing shacks up here as well.
HTH.

Jason
 
hehe forgot you have the whole thing drywalled...i would certainly put down a 3 or 6mil vapour barrier first then the cement...that epoxy is insanely expensive...though i guess cost isnt prohibitive when it comes to a set up like this..definitely worth it to go the best route possible as it would suck to crack a $1000+ tank...at least i cant imagine you would be overly excited about building new front and rear panels..
 
You might be able to make a frame and seal it to the top of the wall with duct-tape or packing tape (the kind with strings). Fill that form with self-leveling goo, let it cure for a day or two, then peel off the frame.

I don't know how self leveling that stuff is on a 12' span though.

There are very thin sheets of the foam that they sell in a roll. You might put a few layers in the center and then the rigid foam sheet on top. Look and test it, and taper the thin stuff until it looks perfect to you. It seems like the easier method compared to pouring some type of resin into a form.

I'd use either 3/4" or 1" rigid foam from Home Depot, and then put some type of trim to hide it.
 
Thanks Jason, I appreciate the comments and suggestions. As tough as it is to say it, I think I'm starting to lean towards the self leveler... Not only will it cure the issue with the surface of the stand but if it's at all out of level, this will also fix that.
 
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