Complete DIY Custom 144x15x15

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13914640#post13914640 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spsfreak
nice!!!! can't wait to see it.

Thanks! Coming right up...

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13917945#post13917945 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Jadams
+1,000,000 for more pics :D

Coming soon.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13917964#post13917964 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnb
blue monti is fine and growing - I will post a picture when it takes a nice shape

Excellent! Can't wait to see it grow up!

So I'll start small...

Here's the power management, yes I just put them in the stand (still need to prime it)... I pulled out the stand and actually stood on it (right in the middle) and not a crack our of it so it's staying simple.

DSCN4534.jpg


ATO Float Valve is installed.

DSCN4533.jpg


Dual sumps are plumbed and connected.

DSCN4532.jpg


Loc Lines are installed.

DSCN4531.jpg


And here's what I ended up doing for the pipe... I took runningstix's idea of building a chase which will have a door covering the front for access (yes it's still to be built). The chase will have a dual purpose; it will hide the return pipe, but it will also hide a cable which will be run for raising and lowing the light pendant (also still to be built) with a switch. :D

Some more drying time needed, sanding, more mud, more sanding, texture and paint.

DSCN4528.jpg


DSCN4530.jpg


Hopefully this makes everyone more happy with the pipe. ;) I do wish it didn't cut off as much of the end view as it does. :(
 
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Ah yes, much cleaner. And you still will have half the window to view down the length.. And what a view that will be!

What's between the sumpies? The seals I mean.
 
Uniseals. :D They work great and are much cheaper than bulkheads. The one on the left is 2" the one on the right is 1.5" with a reducer and union in the middle.
 
Neat solution. However, I think you should rip it out and use the clear PVC / acrylic pipes that you have to clean every 14 days. :D :lol:
 
look's sweet nice job hiding the pipe.......my favorite part of that pic is the mud and dust all over the new floor looks like how i did mine.......my wife was gonna shoot me for not masking it off......lol!!!:smokin:
 
Way to go on that pipe! Now, don't you feel silly for getting all ticked off at everyone that suggested you to do this? ;)

When ya gettin' it filled?

I saw your float valve ... I suggest that you put an isolation valve (John Guest type, for example) before it. I've had these fail and water just trickles out slowly. It would be nice to be able to shut it off.

Jason
 
I like...needs more "pichers" though... :D

Seriously though...looks good, and we all know you'll get more pics up in the next 24-hours!! ;)

As for the electrical panel though, I would make the suggestions of encasing the wiring in PVC cut in half...use brackets to home back together and in place...I believe I saw this on Melev's site...I think...anyway, it would be a good way to keep the wiring safe...

I would also probably take those switches out and build some sort of enclosure for the backs of the switches out of scrap acryllic you have lying around...I'm sure you have some, more than enough in fact...a huge outlet box if you will, just like in your wall...doing this will ensure you don't get salt creep (which you will in time) on the backs of your switches...put a uniseal in one end to connect to the PVC piping your wiring runs through for a water-tight solution...friend of mine had a set of switches ruined because of salt creep, so the few extra dollars and an hour or two of your time spent now will really save you (if nothing more than a huge headache) down the line...

Just my $0.02...food for thought if nothing else...
 
I think that if I had cut drywall near "MY WIFE'S" new floor I would not live long enough to have posted. I like your solution to this, and your build looks great.
 
Glad you made the decision you did, as it looks great (just like you originally designed it that way :p ). BTW I saw lakee911s comments about the float switch. I don't know how automated you're going to make the auto top off system (some hook it up to their RO/DI system directly). I am going to install a float switch in my auto top off tank (16 gallons) but I will fill this tank manually (I have a valve in the supply line) so if the switch fails it wont overflow and if the float switch in the sump fails it won't keep dumping water there.
Just my 2c worth. :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13922829#post13922829 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by EnglishRebel
I saw lakee911s comments about the float switch. I don't know how automated you're going to make the auto top off system (some hook it up to their RO/DI system directly). I am going to install a float switch in my auto top off tank (16 gallons) but I will fill this tank manually (I have a valve in the supply line) so if the switch fails it wont overflow and if the float switch in the sump fails it won't keep dumping water there.
Just my 2c worth. :D

Agreed. :thumbsup:

Hooking Up an RO Unit Directly to Your Sump - A Recipe for Disaster
 
Wow melev. I just read that thread about the octopus and was wondering what the connection was and then I got to page 3 :eek2: :eek2: :eek2:
That was a gorgeous octopus (and what a hitchhiker). What a shame.
I have read quite a few threads about tank crashes because of fully automated top off systems which is why I'm doing what you did. 16 gallons into a 260 gallon total water column won't cause a major disaster.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13918475#post13918475 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spsfreak
Calvin, this is nice. I am sure it will turn out clean, just as all your other endevours have!!

Thanks, only time will tell how it turns out.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13919022#post13919022 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kcress
Thanks I suspected that's what they were. I need to try those someday.

Yeah, they work pretty well.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13919279#post13919279 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
Neat solution. However, I think you should rip it out and use the clear PVC / acrylic pipes that you have to clean every 14 days. :lol:

Yeah, I'll get right on that Marc. ;)

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13919291#post13919291 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by troylee
look's sweet nice job hiding the pipe.......my favorite part of that pic is the mud and dust all over the new floor looks like how i did mine.......my wife was gonna shoot me for not masking it off......lol!!!

Yeah, I don't think my wife noticed yet, and I just got done doing all the clean up this morning. Hopefully it won't be a big deal. :D

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13919801#post13919801 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lakee911
Way to go on that pipe! Now, don't you feel silly for getting all ticked off at everyone that suggested you to do this? ;)

When ya gettin' it filled?

I saw your float valve ... I suggest that you put an isolation valve (John Guest type, for example) before it. I've had these fail and water just trickles out slowly. It would be nice to be able to shut it off.

Jason

No, not really... The only reason I ended up going with it is because I can kill two bird with one stone and so the benefits finally out weighed the cost. Until Lane (MountainDew) suggested I run a cable using a counter-weight for the pendant this really wasn't an option. I loved the idea for the pendant so much, this was the only way to attempt it.

I'm working on getting everything finished today so I can start up the RO/DI unit compliments of Marc.
DSCN4414.jpg


Been using these for years, never had one leak, but I will be installing a valve in the line.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13919835#post13919835 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Hopeful Reefer
I like...needs more "pichers" though...

Seriously though...looks good, and we all know you'll get more pics up in the next 24-hours!!

As for the electrical panel though, I would make the suggestions of encasing the wiring in PVC cut in half...use brackets to home back together and in place...I believe I saw this on Melev's site...I think...anyway, it would be a good way to keep the wiring safe...

I would also probably take those switches out and build some sort of enclosure for the backs of the switches out of scrap acryllic you have lying around...I'm sure you have some, more than enough in fact...a huge outlet box if you will, just like in your wall...doing this will ensure you don't get salt creep (which you will in time) on the backs of your switches...put a uniseal in one end to connect to the PVC piping your wiring runs through for a water-tight solution...friend of mine had a set of switches ruined because of salt creep, so the few extra dollars and an hour or two of your time spent now will really save you (if nothing more than a huge headache) down the line...

Just my $0.02...food for thought if nothing else...

Sorry but I have no idea what you're saying... :( I think it will be fine just the way it is, it's really not that close to any water that could be spraying. The flow through the sump will be very minimal to help keep the water from being turbulent.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13920870#post13920870 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gjakub
I think that if I had cut drywall near "MY WIFE'S" new floor I would not live long enough to have posted. I like your solution to this, and your build looks great.

A basement is a wonderful thing for construction projects... She only goes down there right now when I ask here to come down and it's already cleaned up. ;)

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13921659#post13921659 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by troylee
:fun2: lol!!!!!! i second that....been there done that......

LOL!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13922829#post13922829 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by EnglishRebel
Glad you made the decision you did, as it looks great (just like you originally designed it that way :p ). BTW I saw lakee911s comments about the float switch. I don't know how automated you're going to make the auto top off system (some hook it up to their RO/DI system directly). I am going to install a float switch in my auto top off tank (16 gallons) but I will fill this tank manually (I have a valve in the supply line) so if the switch fails it wont overflow and if the float switch in the sump fails it won't keep dumping water there.
Just my 2c worth.

My RO/DI unit will be filling a 55g drum under the stairs (right next to a floor drain) which I will use to pump water over to the 15g holding tank for ATO. Should be fine. :D

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13923327#post13923327 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by runningstix
looks good calvin!

Thanks!
 
My RO/DI unit will be filling a 55g drum under the stairs (right next to a floor drain) which I will use to pump water over to the 15g holding tank for ATO. Should be fine. :D
Thanks!

As long as the RO/DI unit doesn't fill the 15 g tank automatically you should be fine.
 
Man, you guys are relentless.

Alan, that is correct the RO/DI will not be automated at all. The 55g drum is to have a supply available to fill the 15g ATO drum as needed.


So here's what I did today, hope you guys enjoy... Can you say WET!!!

Under the stand:
DSCN4540.jpg

DSCN4541.jpg

I wrapped the ATO drum stand in left over PVC Sheet to give it a better look for you guys.
DSCN4542.jpg


Fans are installed and running, these babies are silent!!! With 3 of them running full speed, the air flow from the furnace is louder!
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The fans blow directly into the utility room:
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Chase is finished, you can see how much it cuts off.
DSCN4546.jpg


FTS:
DSCN4550.jpg


FTS:
DSCN4545.jpg


Here's the finished tank (except the lights)...
DSCN4535.jpg


After 4 hours of RO/DI running:
DSCN4544.jpg
 
Congratulations! I think the chase is a good solution however I do see your 'gripe' about how it covers most of that end view and understand.
Extremely well done.
 
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