MrMexReefer
In Memoriam
well, shoot me a PM brian 
converting 20g to 40 breeder **pics**
- Thread starter brian is cool
- Start date
FlipFlops24/7
I'd tap that glass
just for reference, here is how we drilled my 40 breeder
MrMexReefer
In Memoriam
hey debaser, your mailbox is full... i wanted to comment on your awesome page
FlipFlops24/7
I'd tap that glass
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8681588#post8681588 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MrMexReefer
hey debaser, your mailbox is full... i wanted to comment on your awesome page
Why thank you for the comment. And thanks for letting me know my mailbox was full. That's the first time it has ever filled up!
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
Ouch... those return holes should be up higher. Otherwise when the pump shuts off, all that water backflows into the sump.
As for the T5s, you might want to consider swapping one of the actinics for a blue+ bulb (blue look rather than actinic purple, and much higher impact to cover up the sun bulb).
Trust me, I know Teks and 40B's...lol
As for the T5s, you might want to consider swapping one of the actinics for a blue+ bulb (blue look rather than actinic purple, and much higher impact to cover up the sun bulb).
Trust me, I know Teks and 40B's...lol
brian is cool
New member
nice tank but Debaser,hahnmeister does have a good point if ur punp goes or the power goes out all that water from ur tank will be going into ur sump and will deffinitly overflow ur sump
Skorpinok
Active member
Not really... the only water that will go into the sump is the water inside the overflow - and it'll stop at the bulkhead level in side the over flow. hopefully Debaser seal the the overflow - if not, then he might have a problem.
BTW, nice setup - Brian, Debaser, and hahnmeister.
I've got a 40g breeder tank as well and did drilled the tank for overflow - calfo style. It's similar to debaser but the overflow only goes 5" down from the top.
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
Yeah, really. We arent saying that the water will continue to drain from the overflow, but that when the pump shuts off, the water will flow backwards in the return lines into the sump.... according to where the bulkheads are on the tank, about 1/2 the water in the display would end up in the sump! This is why return plumbing is often done over the back wall, or across the top of the tank... so when the pump shuts off, it cant backflow into the sump. When people have bulkhead returns and nozzles in the bottom panel of the tank, or lower on the back, its because they are using a closed loop (the intake, pump, etc are plumbed from the tank back to the tank, so if the power goes out, the water just stops).
My suggestion would be to run the sump return pump up, and over the top edge of the tank, and then perhaps add an intake line for a closed loop and use those two return bulkheads on a closed loop. Otherwise, you are looking at just plugging the holes you made and moving them up the back wall to the top edge.
FlipFlops24/7
I'd tap that glass
hahnmeister,
I put a 1/8" hole siphon break in the lock line threaded/lockline starter piece.
I also have a check valve. And we drilled those returns in a spot, where even if the CV fails, I'm only 10-12 gallons away into the sump.
my check valve on the return, just after the return pump
I put a 1/8" hole siphon break in the lock line threaded/lockline starter piece.
I also have a check valve. And we drilled those returns in a spot, where even if the CV fails, I'm only 10-12 gallons away into the sump.
my check valve on the return, just after the return pump
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
The siphon break only prevents water from draining any lower than where the hole is... like if you were to have the lok-line come out and face downward from the bulkhead.
And as for check valves... they fail to fast in reefs. You know how scum, critters, spores, heck... everything gets a coating of biological material in a reef tank? Well, those check valves are no exception. Within weeks you can have a buildup so thick in those things (esp with all that nice flow, and if you have any ambient light... oooo ... the crap will grow!!) that they cant close. They will fail... its just a matter of when. You would have to clean it out weekly or take that chance that some small strand of something will get caught on that flap-door and prevent it from shutting.
If your pump fails, you are looking at more like 20 gallons into your sump (40breeders actually hold about 44 gallons, okay, minus your overflow area, but that water is made up for by the 'displacement water' that is in constant motion in the plumbing and drains while the system is working), and the upper 1/2 of your tank drying out.
I would not use those 2 bulkheads as sump returns. Period. Very risky, even with the valve.
And as for check valves... they fail to fast in reefs. You know how scum, critters, spores, heck... everything gets a coating of biological material in a reef tank? Well, those check valves are no exception. Within weeks you can have a buildup so thick in those things (esp with all that nice flow, and if you have any ambient light... oooo ... the crap will grow!!) that they cant close. They will fail... its just a matter of when. You would have to clean it out weekly or take that chance that some small strand of something will get caught on that flap-door and prevent it from shutting.
If your pump fails, you are looking at more like 20 gallons into your sump (40breeders actually hold about 44 gallons, okay, minus your overflow area, but that water is made up for by the 'displacement water' that is in constant motion in the plumbing and drains while the system is working), and the upper 1/2 of your tank drying out.
I would not use those 2 bulkheads as sump returns. Period. Very risky, even with the valve.
FlipFlops24/7
I'd tap that glass
guess I'll find out when I do a test run just how many gallons of tap water fill my sump.
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
thats the point... when you use it at first, or with freshwater, it will work fine because there is no blockage/buildup on the trap-door in the valve. You have to give it a few months on the reef to get a good coating to see how it will fail.
A good buddy of mine here has two of those on his 120g... they are clogged and dont even work anymore... but luckily his returns are close to the top so he just drilled a siphon-break hole instead.
A good buddy of mine here has two of those on his 120g... they are clogged and dont even work anymore... but luckily his returns are close to the top so he just drilled a siphon-break hole instead.
FlipFlops24/7
I'd tap that glass
I'm going to find out exactly how many gallons are above the bulkheads. I don' think its 20 gallons like you said.
And about the check valve, this is what marine depot said about it.
Designed to be used any place where you want to stop backflow and siphoning. These are among the highest quality check valves to be found. Relative to other types and manufacturers of check valves, there is minimal pressure loss.
The true union check valve is specially designed to be disassembled by unscrewing the nuts in line leaving the tail pieces solvent cemented to the pipe. This true union allows you to remove the body for repairs, or cleaning, even providing the opportunity to change the body or spring.
as long as I clean it monthly I should be ok. My friend whom has these exact same check valves has never had a problem with them failing.
And about the check valve, this is what marine depot said about it.
Designed to be used any place where you want to stop backflow and siphoning. These are among the highest quality check valves to be found. Relative to other types and manufacturers of check valves, there is minimal pressure loss.
The true union check valve is specially designed to be disassembled by unscrewing the nuts in line leaving the tail pieces solvent cemented to the pipe. This true union allows you to remove the body for repairs, or cleaning, even providing the opportunity to change the body or spring.
as long as I clean it monthly I should be ok. My friend whom has these exact same check valves has never had a problem with them failing.
