converting reef to anemone tank

S

sneeze

New member
Long time lurker. Ocasional poster. I think this is my first real thread. . .

I'm ready to get rid of my corals and change over to an RBTA tank.
I've never had sucess with corals, so I want to conquer this challenge.
I have a couple of questions about flow/lighting/chemistry, but the tank parameters first. . .
Tank has been up since this last Februrary
24" cube display with a 20L sump
RPS-1000 skimmer
TLF reactor w/bio-pellets
~800gph return
2x Korallia Evolution 1050's
1x Seio M620
1x Seio M820
175w MH(10k bulbs) w/4x 9w actinic PC's about 6" above the water
I top off with diluted kalk (with the lights so close to the surface, I go through about 2.5 gallons of top off a day).
I aim for alk@ 11dKH; calcium@ 450-500ppm; and mag@ 1400ppm
~75lbs of LR drilled, stacked, and epoxyed into a spire with small "floating reef" shelves.
Current inhabitants:
Large pair of A. ocellaris var (Darwin)
L. dimidiatus
H. melasmapomus (re-homing soon, he's already 6")
Softies (Z's, P's, toadstool, leathers, nepthea)
LPS (4 different frogspawns, torch, hammer)
SPS (few different acros that started at 1" w/color, but are now baseball sized and BUB)

My questions are as follows:
With my current flow, is it too much or too little?
What can I use to keep them anemone safe?
I think my light will be appropriate for a nem at the top, but I'm not sure about the bottom half. Will a 174w be adequate 24" down?
Without calcium based corals, do I need to worry about chemistry as much?
Can I just watch alk?
Is there anything else I should consider?

Thanks in advance!
 
Without SPS or LPS, Calcium is no longer an issue.

Wrap the intakes on all powerheads and pumps with foam or netting of some kind and that will keep the anemones from being pulled in.


BTAs are the most tolerant type of hosting anemone. They can handle most any flow types, but they will go wherever they want to. Same for the lighting, they can handle some pretty low light levels, but they will move to wherever suits them.
 
Awesome.
I didn't know if I needed to keep the alk/calcium/mag balance to prevent some Ph disaster.
In regards to wrapping the powerheads, what about black pantyhose? Too thin and break? Too restricting and will clog easy?
Also, once nem is settled, am I anywhere near safe removing the netting after 6 months of no movement?
I chose bta's because of their reputation of being "easy." I also like the idea that they aren't collected.
 
If you keep Alk at 11, pH will stay stable because nothing in your system will use up your Mag. And Cal is irrelevant in this case.

I would use something heavier, like plastic window screening.

If there is no movement after a few months, you can remove the netting. But if they are disturbed by a change in water quality, flow or lighting, they will start moving again.
 
Cutting screening will be difficult to fit on the korallias. hmmm. . . I'll have to brainstorm.
The chemistry makes sense. I suppose I should have asked if nems use Mag.
As far as removing the screens, I'm probably better just leaving them, huh?
Sounds easier/safer.

Any ideas as to if my MH lighting will keep one of these guys happy at the bottom of the tank?

I have a couple of heatsinks. I might try LED's. I just gotta figure out how many, what colors, and what optics.
 
I can't say for sure about the lighting, but it should be OK for at least the top 2/3 of your rockwork. BTAs don't typically like hanging out near the sand anyway, they like to anchor to a rock then bend up toward the light.
 
with the koralias, wrap the power heads in filter floss and put rubber bands to hold them on. That is what I did and it worked great, u just have to replace them whenever they get dirty.
 
If you're planning on just keeping multiple BTAs, I would get rid of at least half of your powerhead count. They don't need a lot of flow and actually like lower flow. they're known to roam and roam on the glass so the more powerhead you have the higher chance it'll get shred even if the cover is foam guarded.
175w MH is plenty for BTAs.
 
Speaking with Tony Vargas, he thinks anemones move because they are searching for food, which I've heard from a few others as well. You might try feeding it within a few hours of placement. If it thinks this is a good spot for food, it may stay put; no guarantees though. ;)
 
I wouldnt feed an anemone directly after introducing it to a new tank. It might still be stressed and have difficulties to deal with the food.
 
this is me said:
If you're planning on just keeping multiple BTAs, I would get rid of at least half of your powerhead count. They don't need a lot of flow and actually like lower flow. they're known to roam and roam on the glass so the more powerhead you have the higher chance it'll get shred even if the cover is foam guarded.
175w MH is plenty for BTAs.
Click to expand...

Korallias enough?
 
subscribed....I'm setting up a 150 tall with a DSB and all BTA's

My insperation was seeing a wall of RBTA's at the Riverhead, NY aquarium....
 
chris3_16 said:
with the koralias, wrap the power heads in filter floss and put rubber bands to hold them on. That is what I did and it worked great, u just have to replace them whenever they get dirty.
Click to expand...

I would think that'll get dirty/clogged fast. Not to mention unsightly. I may try it though
 
this is me said:
Sorry, I'm not familiar with Koralias. All I was saying that you want to consolidate 4 power heads to half. You might be okay but you might want to look at higher output powerhead.
Click to expand...

Gotcha. Makes sense. I just don't like the look of the seios. I should just invest in some mp10's. They're just so expensive...
 
on board...Thinking of turning my 37 gal into a Nem w a pair of clowns...I run 2 Marineland 200's and a coralife T-5...seems ideal ...
 
Alright, two more questions in regards to lighting/color. I have been running 10k bulbs because they make the corals grow like mad, forgoing the colors I get with more blue. Does the same rules apply with nems?
Second, if I get a cheaper nem, can I add a second higher quality nem with more vibrant colors once i feel confident in my ability to keep one? Or will I have problems with aleopathy (spelling?)? Both btas of course.
 
Just got the seios covered with window screening. Made two sets for each so I can swap them out quickly.
Korallias removed; condemned to a bangaii tank the wife wants to build.
Next step? Re-home earmuff wrasse, lps and sps.
 
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