Cooling your aquarium

Best way to cool your tank is to limit the amount of heat you are putting into it! Dump the submersible pump (particularly MagDrives), move to LED lighting (for at least part of your lighting cycle), and then run a small fan across the top surface of the tank.

BTW, I built an aquarium swamp cooler years ago by blowing air through an old bio-ball trickle filter. Worked great to cool the tank (5 degrees on a 180 gal) but nitrates became a problem (and doubled daily evaporation).
 
Evaporative cooling can definately reduce temp well below ambient. I remember a school experiment where a small puddle of water was placed on a piece of cork. A convex petri dish was placed on the cork convex side down and air blown accross it. The water will freeze at room temp. Working in the Red Sea we used Swamp Chillers on deck. Basically a piece of cloth with water flowing over it that has a fan blowing through it. These can drop the temp by 15 degrees C. Alot.

The lower the humidity the more efficient the evaporation.
 
However, I cannot find any information on how effective evaporative cooling is in an aquarium. Will the fans lower the temperature below the ambient room temperature? For example your house does not drop below 80 degrees will the fans be able to keep the aquarium at 78 degrees?

When are fans not enough and people should think about chillers to cool their aquariums?

Thanks.

Later,Adam

Your question is a complicated one (whether fans will be enough). Here is a bit of thermodynamic information to get you started:

Water's enthalpy of vaporization is 2260 kilojoules/kg water vaporized. This figure can be converted to watts if one knows or can estimate the rate of evaporation. For example, if one gallon evaporates in an 8 hour period, then using the above enthalpy of vaporization one obtains a rate of heat removal as 297 watts.

The rate of evaporation from the tank is a complex function of the relative humidity of the air that is blown across the tank, the surface area exposed to evaporation, the temperature of the tank water and the air, and the air flow rate. While engineering equations are available to estimate evaporative mass transfer given the value of these factors, the math is complex. It's far easier to do some empirical experiments - buy a cheap temperature/relative humidity indicator, set your fan to the preferred speed setting, and carefully measure the evaporation rate of your tank over a defined number of hours.

Generally speaking, "swamp cooling" is effective at relative humidities of less than about 50%. If you live in the southwest or western US, then evaporative cooling is probably all you need assuming you have the tank in a reasonably cool location.

For the Central Plains states, the South and the East Coast, the solution is more complicated. Temperatures in these locations can go well above 95 degrees and have a dew point well in excess of 70 deg F. If the indoor air is not conditioned or only lightly conditioned, evaporation will be slow, and the relative humidity in the house/apartment will rise very quickly as tank water gets pumped into the air. Under these conditions, it's far less expensive to cool the room that the tank is in if it can be closed off than it is to run a chiller.

If the tank is over 100 gallons or so, the house is less than 2500 square feet and is relatively modern with good insulation and a high SEER central AC unit, it still may be less expensive to air condition the whole house and simply use evaporative cooling to cool the tank into the desired range.

But - if the tank is large (and so needs a big chiller), the house is over 2500 sq. ft., the tank has special heat gain considerations, such as metal halide lighting, an enclosed hood, is in sunlight part of the day or has a lot of high-wattage submersible pumps, then a chiller may be the least expensive and most reliable/controllable way of regulating tank temp. Ideally, the heat from the chiller should be vented outside or into a basement. But as long as the air in the room that the tank/chiller is in is well-mixed with the air in the rest of the house, a chiller will work very well.
 
In Louisiana, it's getting in the 90s pretty often and it will soon be getting up into the 100's later on this Summer. With me running the central air and a window unit in the living room, my tank is still getting up to 83.9*F during the day.... I think I'm going to consider adding a fan to my setup. Apparently it's a necessary evil this time of year.

I've never had my tank get above 82 even on a 100+ day in New Orleans. Do you have halides?
 
Thanks everyone for the discussion on cooling aquariums, particularly the DIY swamp cooler from PaulB and the detailed reply by dkeller NC.

Later,Adam
 
More numbers... I have one fan over my 100g sump. Tank never gets above 81 degrees with ambient room temperature sometime reaches high 80. We have low humidity here - below 20% I guess it helps too. Tank's evaporation rate is about 1.2-1.3g per day. So with $10 fan you can effectively keep you tank 5-7 degrees cooler then ambient room temperature.
 
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Best way to cool your tank is to limit the amount of heat you are putting into it! Dump the submersible pump (particularly MagDrives), move to LED lighting (for at least part of your lighting cycle), and then run a small fan across the top surface of the tank.

BTW, I built an aquarium swamp cooler years ago by blowing air through an old bio-ball trickle filter. Worked great to cool the tank (5 degrees on a 180 gal) but nitrates became a problem (and doubled daily evaporation).

No, the best way to cool a tank is to turn on your ac! It always boggles my mind that people are willing to spend 1000s of dollars on their tank, then they get cheap with their ac. Even more perplexing to me - what human being thinks its ok to have home temps above 80???????
 
No, the best way to cool a tank is to turn on your ac! It always boggles my mind that people are willing to spend 1000s of dollars on their tank, then they get cheap with their ac. Even more perplexing to me - what human being thinks its ok to have home temps above 80???????

Some of us have programmable thermostats and live in the South. The difference between letting the house get to 84 during work hours when I'm away and 75 all the time is about $150 per month during a normal summer in June, July, August and part of September. If it's a really hot summer, the difference will be as much as $200.

It's a close call between operating a chiller to keep just the tank cool and cooling my whole house. So small things I can do to keep heat out of the water matter, such as using the lowest wattage equipment I can to keep heat out of the water.
 
Some of us have programmable thermostats and live in the South. The difference between letting the house get to 84 during work hours when I'm away and 75 all the time is about $150 per month during a normal summer in June, July, August and part of September. If it's a really hot summer, the difference will be as much as $200.

It's a close call between operating a chiller to keep just the tank cool and cooling my whole house. So small things I can do to keep heat out of the water matter, such as using the lowest wattage equipment I can to keep heat out of the water.

Maybe its a southern thing? Here in phoenix, we just leave our ac on all day.
 
No, the best way to cool a tank is to turn on your ac! It always boggles my mind that people are willing to spend 1000s of dollars on their tank, then they get cheap with their ac. Even more perplexing to me - what human being thinks its ok to have home temps above 80???????

I don't live in the south, but in Chicago I agree 100% with your statement. We keep the house at 73-75 in the summer, and I had a 60 cube right in the kitchen where it was warmest in the house. Even in the intense heat of last year, it never peaked over 81-82. I never ran a chiller and the tank was up for almost two years with no issues what so ever... I didn't mind spending the extra money because, well honestly I don't like being in a hot and sticky house so my tank benefits.

Now our 150 is in the basement.. problem solved for good.
 
Maybe its a southern thing? Here in phoenix, we just leave our ac on all day.
Here on Long Island where we pay about the highest rates for electricity in the country, we don't. It is cheaper to throw out the tank every niight and start a new one every morning than to run the AC all day when no one is home.
 
Here on Long Island where we pay about the highest rates for electricity in the country, we don't. It is cheaper to throw out the tank every niight and start a new one every morning than to run the AC all day when no one is home.

Might be time to leave the state to somewhere more affordable :-) Kidding..
 
No you are correct, that is why I installed solar panels all over my roof.
But my real estate taxes here take care of any money I was going to spend on electricity
 
Here on Long Island where we pay about the highest rates for electricity in the country, we don't. It is cheaper to throw out the tank every niight and start a new one every morning than to run the AC all day when no one is home.

Hah.. same here. When my in-laws visited my house I paid close to $600 on my P&N. We have tiers system here. Its an EVIL. Rates are growing from 'base tier' exponentially and base is a super low. You can run few lights and watch few hours of TV within base tier that's it. Thinking about solar too...
 

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