Copper treatment
- Thread starter new2scene
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bureau13
New member
The fact that the tank is not cycled is causing the ammonia to go up. How long was he in there before you did the water change? What kind of filtration do you have? I used a sponge filter that was in my main tank refugium for a while, thinking that would be good enough, but I had a horrible ammonia problem anyway. I would get some Biospira nitrifying bacteria to seed the filter, and maybe some Amquel or similar. And be prepared for more of those water changes, which is going to make keeping the copper content up a pain.
jds
jds
I put him in yesterday and did a water change today. I just have the Aqua clear filter the hang on kind with the biofilter and the filter with the carbon in it.. should i have the filter with the carbon in it or should i take it out. should i do another water change right now the amonia is .5o and trates are 5.0 according to the colour chart i have.
If your QT doesn't have any live rock or sand, it won't have to cycle. On the other hand, your the bio material in your filter will have to get "broken in" with nitrifying bacteria before it's able to do its job removing ammonia from the system.
Anyway, I wouldn't worry at all about the nitrates, but that ammonia is definitely a problem. I would do another water change. Maybe as much as 50%, just make sure you match the temperature, salinity and PH of the new water to the old as best you can. Now, to confuse you further, there is a school of thought out there that says it's bad to do water changes to reduce ammonia, since the extra aeration from the water change will raise the PH, and ammonia is more toxic at higher PH. I'd do the water change right away, though. 0.5 ammonia is pretty much toxic, and I guarantee that wrasse is hurting.
As for the copper, I've never heard that it causes a rise in ammonia, and I can imagine why it would (not that I'm a chemist).
Anyway, I wouldn't worry at all about the nitrates, but that ammonia is definitely a problem. I would do another water change. Maybe as much as 50%, just make sure you match the temperature, salinity and PH of the new water to the old as best you can. Now, to confuse you further, there is a school of thought out there that says it's bad to do water changes to reduce ammonia, since the extra aeration from the water change will raise the PH, and ammonia is more toxic at higher PH. I'd do the water change right away, though. 0.5 ammonia is pretty much toxic, and I guarantee that wrasse is hurting.
As for the copper, I've never heard that it causes a rise in ammonia, and I can imagine why it would (not that I'm a chemist).
Oh, one more thing. Check the directions on the copper, but there are many medications that will get taken out of the water prematurely with carbon. I can't remember, but I think copper is one of them, but I may be thinking of antibiotics.
I did a 50 water change today and amonia is still .50. I am so fustrated. This poor little fish is stressed and I keep fiddling with taking the levels water changes etc. And this copper treatment says that it treats the water for 1 month. The guy at lfs told me to do it every day. Maybe someone knows. It's called COPPERSAFE by MARDEL. if I am doing water changes everyday how is this treatment supposed to work!
luke33
In Memoriam
FWIW, when you add copper to your tank, it destroys the bacteria, so you have to do frequent water changes, this is why hypo is so popular. Hypo won't kill teh bacteria and your fish will be fine. The copper causes more stress on your fish and he must be fairly hardy to make it through the treatment. I only use copper if there is no other treatment. You'll have to do daily water changes and then make sure your copper is at an acceptable level. Is this an ick treatment i'm guessing?
thanks, he has ich. so basically i do a 20% change everyday and use water instead of adding salt to it to bring the salinity down to .009 over a period of about 8 days? keep it at that for how long and then slowly increase the salinity to .025. I have a hydrometer, i know what your're going to say and i wish i had known before i bought it. I am tapped for money as i just bought all this crap. Will definately by a refractometer soon
luke33
In Memoriam
I would suggest to bring your water down to .009 in a 2 day period and run carbon in the tank. After you think your at .009 take a water sample to your LFS and test it. They should do taht for free. The only problem i see now is if you have any other fish in your tank. All your fish will be hosting the ick so you will have to qt them all and hypo them all, otherwise when you add your wrasse back, he'll just get ick again. Its a ugly thing to have to go through and most of us have been there done that. I know i have! Let me know if you need any help.
luke33
In Memoriam
FWIW, i bought a refrac from ebay the blue atc for under 30 shipped to my door. It works perfect. You being in canada, the shipping may be more, but there are places in hong kong that sell them for cheap that the shipping will pry be the same and you can get them for under 30, and i hear they are very nice. It may take 2 weeks to get though.
thanks so much. I am practically tearing my hair out over this. I don't have any other fish and thank god. this is my first fish and from spending all this money and running back and forth to the lfs (which I think they have a good laugh when i come in) I am getting very stressed out and discouraged. I go to bed at nite thinking about parameters etc.. Anyway I'll do as you suggested and again thank you. Lori
hmello@bermexin
New member
you will need to let you display tank sit fallow (no fish) for at least 4 weeks 5 or even 6 is better. (time measured for when the tank was fishless) I believe that 4 weeks is the time period that ich dies with no host, but the extra week or two is added insurance. You don't want to go through this again.
hmello@bermexin
New member
not the ich will not affect the hermits or snails or corals
luke33
In Memoriam
Just so you know Lori, anything wet can carry the ick, but only fish can host it. Many people keep all there stock, hermits, snails and corals in QT for 4-6 weeks before introducing them into there main tank. I keep my fish in qt but thats it. I do dip my inverts and all in a different tank before i add them to my main, but i don't have money for lighting for another tank, especially a qt to keep corals in. As for copper, imo its a last resort, it has its time and place and i keep some on hand, but for the most part hypo is the best way to go and it won't harm your fish, or stress them out. Just make sure you keep your tank fallow for 6weeks and keep the hypo for 5weeks then raise the sg back up in 4-5 days. Its harder for a fish to increase sg than to decrease. And keep up on those water changes if ammonia is present.....it'll be tough but its only a 10g so you should be ok. Good Luck!
luke33
In Memoriam
What kind of test kit are you using and you may want to pick up some of the ammonia controller liquid. It basically turns ammonia into a safe ammonia, but time is going to be the key. I have a qt set up at all time that is way cycled and ready to rock...its a 75 gallon...i went through the same thing you did....it was a nighmare with a 75g tank....30% h2o changes a day for a few weeks.......Can't believe all my fish survived! lol, poor guys!
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