Coradion melanopus & Chaetodon trichrous

AuroraDrvr

New member
Had some new butterflies come in yesterday. A Coradion melanopus and a "pair" of Chaetodon trichrous from BlueZooAquatics.

Coradion are notoriously finicky eaters, so I will be documenting the steps taken to hopefully get this C. melanopus to eat vigorously (not just nibble), and my attempts to "pair" the C. trichrous. I will be updating the thread periodically with the what and how.

The Twinspot (C. melanopus) was received with a fluke infestation. His right eye was inflamed and very cloudy, and his pelvic fins were covered with visible flukes. I do not believe BZA shipped me a sick fish, but rather that the issue manifested itself during shipping. I have not began to fully treat the fish, I want to get him eating at least a little before the three of them go into full meds.

Day 1 - FedEX showed up at 8:30am local time. He was acclimated and put into a planted tank, which will serve as a temporary QT for now. He did not eat at all, only picking a couple of times at the rock. I studied his eating habits, but they were unpredictable. He was offered PE Mysis, SFB Mysis, Shaved Scallops, Bloodworms, Fresh Clam (on the half shell) and Cyclopeeze. He did not show interest in any of the foods, ignoring them completely.

Day 2 (2/4/2010) - Offered SFB Mysis and Cyclopeeze in the morning. Showed minor interest, following a mysis from the top of the tank to the bottom, but did not bite. I sat in front of the tank for a while, to try and study any potential eating patterns. I was able to determine there are three spots he focuses all of his picking on. He investigates other areas but these three spots are the only place he will pick from. I offered the tank a general feeding of Daphnia and Hikari Spirulina Brine, the Tahitians were quick to eat the food bits that were appropriately sized for them. The Twinspot showed minor interest, following pieces of food around. Knowing the three hot spots for picking, I decided to try and bait the areas with a little bit of food, first angel formula shoved into the rock work, which turned up fruitless. I began trying to sneak pieces of brine into the area as he was picking at the rock work, without spooking him. I used a small 6mL syringe and squirted the food into the vicinity, success! It took a couple tries over the course of several hours before he sampled a small piece of brine. I have been trying to get the brine to "stick" to the rock work, as he is only picking at some of the pieces that land on the rocks. I suspect it is stimulating for him to pick at it. At each "feeding" he has only eaten about 1 brine total, so a total of 5 brine today. It is still not vigorous, nor is he eating enough to even be called a meal. But it is something to start working off of.

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The C. trichrous are also in the same planted tank as the C. melanopus. The fish are not divided up, they were all placed in the same tank at the same time after acclimation. The Tahitians came in with a very minor case of flukes, I suspect another issue manifested during shipping. The interactions between the C. melanopus and Tahitians is nonexistent. They do not bother it at all, so I will try and focus on the interactions between just these two fish, as I hope to 'pair' them up. The size difference is around 0.250".

Day 1 - Both placed in the tank at the same time. The smaller one settled quicker and began eating sooner. As the day wound down, the larger one claimed the main cave as his own and began chasing the little one away from his 'space'. There was no other dominant behavior.

Day 2 - The larger specimen began lightly chasing the little one. He did not like when the little one entered his personal space, or when they made eye contact. This continued for the majority of the day. Just before lights-out, the larger one began chasing the little one relentlessly. It was nipping the smaller specimen's vent, and chasing it into a corner, not letting it come down. I decided to kill the lights early. I will need to monitor them tomorrow when the lights come back on. If it continues I might need to separate them, either by egg crate or into completely different tanks.

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Great thread! I asked about these fish a while back... not a whole lot of input. I look forward to your detailed account.
 
Good stuff Todd. Good luck with them. Can you share a bit more info about the setup then are currently housed in and a FTS? Thanks, T
 
Thanks for the support guys.

Tim, the three of them were put in a very basic planted 10 gallon with loads of different caluerpa and some corals. The tank has been up for over 2 years, and was the best option, as it has plenty of life they could eat. I'll post more details and pictures later today.

For Day 3 (Yesterday), the Twinspot did not eat, or show interest in any foods. A big step backwards. His eye was looking very good, but the visible flukes on his pelvic fins were increasing. Last night I decided to transfer the Tahitians to a separate 10 gallon. They're squabbling had subsided, but they are just too hyper, and often get in the way of the Twinspot, which I felt was a huge hindrance. All three of them got FW Dipped (2.5 Minutes each). After which the Twinspot seemed more energetic and began picking at the rock work more, but still would not eat anything.

So far, I have tried:

PE Mysis (Too Large)
SFB Mysis
SFB Daphnia
Hikari Daphnia
ON Angel Formula
Hikari Spirulina Brine
Bloodworms
Grated Scallops
Grated Table Shrimp
Fresh Clam on 1/2 Shell
Nori
ON Cyclopeeze

I have been trying to find Live Adult Brine and Blackworms locally, to no avail. I started a BBS culture yesterday, so we'll see if it take BBS later this evening. I doubt I will have time to grow out the BBS to adult size. I might have to order some ABS.

Day 3 for the Tahitians went better than expected. Both were a bit more ragged with torn fins in the morning, however the majority of their bickering was over. The larger one still charges the little one every-so-often, but it's nothing viscous. As I mentioned above, they did get moved into a separate tank from the Twinspot and were FW dipped.
 
I prefer 10 minute FW dips, quite honestly. Other than one flasher wrasse, I have never had a fish have an issue with this length of time.
 
Todd have you considered this....... Take a dead skeleton of an sps. Get your self some small holes plastic screening. Take a variety of food and then place the food on the branches of the sps and wrap the screen around it. Leave a portion of the sps bare, this will attract the fish to begin with. You can also use some mono fishing line to keep the food attached to the SPS. You could also freexe the food onto the skeleton, though it won't last long. Not sure if you used live bloodworms, but you should. Also live brine is worth a go to atleast get them into eating. T
 
Tim,

I tried the SPS Skeleton technique. Pocillopora and Acro skeletons. Angel Formula and Brine on the other. Didn't seem too interested.

I am going to head to the LFS and look for some Tigger Pods and Arcti-Pods, since these fish are pod/worm eaters. Also plan on going to go look for a couple sea sponges at the crafts store so I can try and provide a more natural food presentation. I just need to find one that hasn't been treated with chemicals to hell and back, which might be a challenge. I'd love to be able to find a live sea sponge that is filled with tube worms or a duster cluster. I am also going to try an implement a petri-dish, where a portion of food will be placed. This will consolidate some food into single stationary spot.

Worst comes to worst, I will be ordering Live Brine and Blackworms sometime this week.
 
Hatching your own live artemia is inexpensive and straight forward. I would grab one of the kits if you can. Any update about feeding attempts?
 
I am working on BBS right now. I started last night, so they should be hatching any hour now, if the eggs are still viable.

Nothing in terms of 'updates'. He's picking at the rocks more, but still reluctant to eat any foods.
 
I prefer 10 minute FW dips, quite honestly. Other than one flasher wrasse, I have never had a fish have an issue with this length of time.
I'm a wuss in terms of FW dipping. I can't handle the site of the fish. :fun5: I'll probably give them another [longer] dip in a couple days. The Tahitians are still a bit in shock from the dip.
 
I agree with Peter, 10-15 minutes is what I have done for fish than can handle it. Two & a half minutes won't do anything. Unless the fish can't upright itself or it's darting around in the dip bowl it should be fine.

Why are you waiting to treat for the flukes?

I love the body shape on those melanopus..............goood luck.
 
I agree with Peter, 10-15 minutes is what I have done for fish than can handle it. Two & a half minutes won't do anything. Unless the fish can't upright itself or it's darting around in the dip bowl it should be fine.

Why are you waiting to treat for the flukes?

I love the body shape on those melanopus..............goood luck.

Yeah, I tend to just walk away, so as to no stress the fish even more by being visible to it during the dip. Also, the dipping container must be COVERED :)
 
Why are you waiting to treat for the flukes?
Treatment(s) for flukes can kill appetites. This fish didn't/doesn't have the time to wait to eat. Coupled with the mildness of the fluke infestation, I felt it was best for the fish to not be fully treated, as I received it thin already.
 
They're slowly hatching now. I had the water temps a little cold, so it's taking a bit longer than normal for the BBS to hatch. That said, he's not interested. He's very lethargic today, and seems to be, as John (Copps) called it "Swimming Dead"...
 
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