Coral Growth Problems

This is also true. I am not familiar with the lights you have currently. Should definitely give those a hard look to see if they are sufficient.

How have you determined the settings on your LED fixture? Have you used a Par meter to set up the strength of your LED's lights. Your alk staying constant tells me that your corals are not growing so they are not taking up the alk and cal in the water column.
Get your lighting checked out losing acro's in two weeks is generally do to light shock.
All the extra supplements are not required now. You need to concentrate on keeping the corals alive. I would stop all the additives except cal and alk and focus on getting your corals back into a growth state.
 
Finding information about the lights is tricky as I assume not too many people have/use them, and for those who do, they don't talk about it. I also assume my water params for the fish in both the QT and DT are fine as the Goby has gone through QT and is still well and feeding in the DT.

Reefwiser, I haven't used a PAR meter due to high cost and lack of being able to get my hands on one to borrow. Honestly, the way I determined light at first was when I had my xenia's was to up the lights 10% per channel per week, then back off 5% when the xenia closed up, and the xenia started out in the mid-high spots of the tank. Color I visually tried to match with a 10,000k bulb I had in a 48" fixture above my planted tank.

Corals would all be temp mounted on an eshopps frag rack and moved up over the course of a week. Acro's would be over 2 weeks as they would be moved up higher. After seeing polyp extension I would assume they would be ok, and they would be mounted on the LR. Then randomly RTN or STN would start...assuming it's RTN/STN as there are never signs of pests.
 
Do one thing at a time. You can reduce your lights by 5-10% to promote healing and reduce stress, but focus on the dosing for now. Lets deal with the water chemistry and things we can measure before moving on. You can always run carbon as a general tool to help, water changes and lowering the lights a little are about the same thing. The dosing is just something that I know for a fact you can do without.

Your light acclimation method is fine (I'm not an expert so I don't know for sure so take that with a grain of salt), but the problem is that you don't know if the xenia failed because the lighting was too much or if it was something else. Work on the water chemistry first and once that settles out, you can try looking at the lighting to get it a little more dialed in.
 
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