<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14474135#post14474135 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H20ENG
Machado, you and your helpers make it look so easy! It would be great to see the steps involved in cutting the glass, setting up the panels for sealing, etc.
The guys have really done a good job.
Unfortunately, I have no pics showing such steps but I can try to explain you how it was done:
There was a single hole on the pane which separate the compartment (1) from the remaining sump. The first step was to obstruct it with a little piece of glass fixed on the submerged side of the sump using epoxy because it hardens down the water. With the hole obstructed there wasn’t any problem emptying the compartment (1).
To drill the new holes we needed the opposite side of the pan without water. So, the second step as to fix a rectangular piece of glass, vertically, with epoxy all around (bottom and both vertical sides) to create the "dried column".
The third step was to empty the corner getting this way the empty space in the â€Âthe dried columnâ€Â. After that, all 3 holes could be drilled.
The fourth step was to refill the compartment (1) with water coming from the sump while adding the same volume of new saltwater to the system to compensate.
After the compartment (1) and sediment retainer be refilled with water, the upper part of the glass, referred in the second scheme of my post as “to be broken after the holes doneâ€Â, could be broken to enlarge the channel.
I should post some pics of the corner viewed from above.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14474135#post14474135 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H20ENG
On the sediment trap, the velocity is the key to letting detritus fall out. For whatever flowrate you have, you need to get the velocity down to 1 foot per second or so. So with a lot of flow, unfortunately this means a wider tank (longer does not help).
I agree with you when you say that the velocity is the key to letting detritus fall out but not when you say that longer does not help.
The key of this retainer is his particular design. The water is forced to flow upward and backward and the sediments tend to fall down when the water rises (and slowly flows over the parallel backward glasses). The longer the sediment retainer the slower the water rising. The same happens with larger retainers. JMO.
The up-spring effect on the water surface produced by the upward flowing water in a laminar regime is very, very nice! My last shot gives a small idea how it does.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14474135#post14474135 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H20ENG
Your design is fine, just bypass some of the flow to another area if possible to slow the flow in that section down a bit.
The problem is that I need to prepare the sump for the next upgrades. I have two more tanks wating for to run and by now 2,000g wuold bypass the sediment retainer and with the next tanks running much more water wuold bypass.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14474135#post14474135 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H20ENG
I forget, do you use commercial supplements or make your own balling mixes? At your volume, you would do well to buy large food grade sacks of those chemicals you are using
I buy the main products 30 pounds bulks.
Cheers,