Coral Tank from Canada (1350gal Display Tank)
- Thread starter nineball
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nineball
Active member
The original chiller and closed loop UV and Canester
The original chiller and closed loop UV and Canester
I am going to refer to this part of the system as Closed Loop A. The new Chiller, UV and Canester is Closed Loop B........We've already covered that one.......
For Mr. Wilson's benefit a spicket has been added to the canester filter to allow the column to be drained after the ball valves have isolated it from the system. There should not be any water in the canester before the lid is removed. Also the canester is right next to the sink as promised!!!!
Peter
The original chiller and closed loop UV and Canester
I am going to refer to this part of the system as Closed Loop A. The new Chiller, UV and Canester is Closed Loop B........We've already covered that one.......
For Mr. Wilson's benefit a spicket has been added to the canester filter to allow the column to be drained after the ball valves have isolated it from the system. There should not be any water in the canester before the lid is removed. Also the canester is right next to the sink as promised!!!!
Peter
offroadodge
New member
so i know i havnt posted any in the thread, took almost all day to read. This is a thing of beauty. If it looks this good now, when the display is set-up and running its gonna be magnificant. Great job and continued luck. Tagging along
tonyf
New member
We aren't keeping corals from the Atlaltic ocean or Caribbean Sea so the average temp isn't accurate for our South Pacific, Australian and Indo Pacific corals. I'll look it up when I get the chance, but I doubt the temps where our corals come from go below 80F.
Maybe some of our Australian friends here can inform us. One of them is in the coral collecting business. I'm sure he can stick anaquarium thermometer on his wetsuit
It would be easier to Google "water temperature Great Barrier Reef" but you will find that the water temperature varies considerably from the southern tip around Lady Elliot Island to the northern end in the vacinity of Darwin and further west to Broome.
"temperatures from 18 - 33 °C" Source: http://www.barrierreefaustralia.com/the-great-barrier-reef/coralfacts.htm
We even have coral ... sps ... growing as far south as Brisbane.
Tone
Peter, outstanding tank room, reminds me of a public aquarium installation, only nicer!
btw, I noticed that liveaquaria.com lists almost all their corals and reef fish at 72-78 deg F optimal temperature, I have sent them Ron Shimek's article and asked for their response, I'll post it here, I still don't understand why everyone keeps their tanks at cooler temperatures, I wonder if it's due to our closed systems and the consequential variables at play
btw, I noticed that liveaquaria.com lists almost all their corals and reef fish at 72-78 deg F optimal temperature, I have sent them Ron Shimek's article and asked for their response, I'll post it here, I still don't understand why everyone keeps their tanks at cooler temperatures, I wonder if it's due to our closed systems and the consequential variables at play
I posted this temperature issue on another forum and someone posted this reference from Randy Holmes-Farley:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php
his comments on temperature are:
"Temperature impacts reef aquarium inhabitants in a variety of ways. First and foremost, the animals' metabolic rates rise as temperature rises. They may consequently use more oxygen, carbon dioxide, nutrients, calcium and alkalinity at higher temperatures. This higher metabolic rate can also increase both their growth rate and waste production at higher temperatures.
Another important impact of temperature is on the chemical aspects of the aquarium. The solubility of dissolved gases such as oxygen and carbon dioxide, for example, changes with temperature. Oxygen, in particular, can be a concern because it is less soluble at higher temperature.
So what does this imply for aquarists?
In most instances, trying to match the natural environment in a reef aquarium is a worthy goal. Temperature may, however, be a parameter that requires accounting for the practical considerations of a small closed system. Looking to the ocean as a guide for setting temperatures in reef aquaria may present complications, because corals grow in such a wide range of temperatures. Nevertheless, Ron Shimek has shown in a previous article that the greatest variety of corals are found in water whose average temperature is about 83-86° F.
Reef aquaria do, however, have limitations that may make their optimal temperature somewhat lower. During normal functioning of a reef aquarium, the oxygen level and the metabolic rate of the aquarium inhabitants are not often important issues. During a crisis such as a power failure, however, the dissolved oxygen can be rapidly used up. Lower temperatures not only allow a higher oxygen level before an emergency, but will also slow the consumption of that oxygen by slowing the metabolism of the aquarium's inhabitants. The production of ammonia as organisms begin to die may also be slower at lower temperatures. For reasons such as this, one may choose to strike a practical balance between temperatures that are too high (even if corals normally thrive in the ocean at those temperatures), and those that are too low. Although average reef temperatures in maximal diversity areas (i.e. coral triangle centered Indonesia,) these areas are also often subject to significant mixing. In fact, the cooler reefs, ( i..e. open Pacific reefs) are often more stable at lower temperatures due to oceanic exchange but are less tolerant to bleaching and other temperature related perturbations.
All things considered, those natural guidelines leave a fairly wide range of acceptable temperatures. I keep my aquarium at about 80-81° F year-round. I am actually more inclined to keep the aquarium cooler in the summer, when a power failure would most likely warm the aquarium, and higher in winter, when a power failure would most likely cool it.
All things considered, I recommend temperatures in the range of 76-83° F unless there is a very clear reason to keep it outside that range."
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php
his comments on temperature are:
"Temperature impacts reef aquarium inhabitants in a variety of ways. First and foremost, the animals' metabolic rates rise as temperature rises. They may consequently use more oxygen, carbon dioxide, nutrients, calcium and alkalinity at higher temperatures. This higher metabolic rate can also increase both their growth rate and waste production at higher temperatures.
Another important impact of temperature is on the chemical aspects of the aquarium. The solubility of dissolved gases such as oxygen and carbon dioxide, for example, changes with temperature. Oxygen, in particular, can be a concern because it is less soluble at higher temperature.
So what does this imply for aquarists?
In most instances, trying to match the natural environment in a reef aquarium is a worthy goal. Temperature may, however, be a parameter that requires accounting for the practical considerations of a small closed system. Looking to the ocean as a guide for setting temperatures in reef aquaria may present complications, because corals grow in such a wide range of temperatures. Nevertheless, Ron Shimek has shown in a previous article that the greatest variety of corals are found in water whose average temperature is about 83-86° F.
Reef aquaria do, however, have limitations that may make their optimal temperature somewhat lower. During normal functioning of a reef aquarium, the oxygen level and the metabolic rate of the aquarium inhabitants are not often important issues. During a crisis such as a power failure, however, the dissolved oxygen can be rapidly used up. Lower temperatures not only allow a higher oxygen level before an emergency, but will also slow the consumption of that oxygen by slowing the metabolism of the aquarium's inhabitants. The production of ammonia as organisms begin to die may also be slower at lower temperatures. For reasons such as this, one may choose to strike a practical balance between temperatures that are too high (even if corals normally thrive in the ocean at those temperatures), and those that are too low. Although average reef temperatures in maximal diversity areas (i.e. coral triangle centered Indonesia,) these areas are also often subject to significant mixing. In fact, the cooler reefs, ( i..e. open Pacific reefs) are often more stable at lower temperatures due to oceanic exchange but are less tolerant to bleaching and other temperature related perturbations.
All things considered, those natural guidelines leave a fairly wide range of acceptable temperatures. I keep my aquarium at about 80-81° F year-round. I am actually more inclined to keep the aquarium cooler in the summer, when a power failure would most likely warm the aquarium, and higher in winter, when a power failure would most likely cool it.
All things considered, I recommend temperatures in the range of 76-83° F unless there is a very clear reason to keep it outside that range."
nineball
Active member
Various Controllers
Various Controllers
This arrangement works so that the thermostat for cooling works from the remote. That means I can move the remote around the fish room to an ideal location if there is a hot spot. The humidity sensor for the HRV is located reasonably close to the air flow from the tank canopy into the fish room.
controller for the second chiller..........closed loop system B
controller for 'Robbie the Robot' (skimmer) followed by the control for Robbies bubbles...........
temp probe and controller for the first chiller, closed loop system A in the bottom middle of the frame.........the probe sits in the refugium which is the last stop before re-entry into the Display tank.
Various Controllers
This arrangement works so that the thermostat for cooling works from the remote. That means I can move the remote around the fish room to an ideal location if there is a hot spot. The humidity sensor for the HRV is located reasonably close to the air flow from the tank canopy into the fish room.
controller for the second chiller..........closed loop system B
controller for 'Robbie the Robot' (skimmer) followed by the control for Robbies bubbles...........
temp probe and controller for the first chiller, closed loop system A in the bottom middle of the frame.........the probe sits in the refugium which is the last stop before re-entry into the Display tank.
Last edited:
nineball
Active member
EYE Candy
EYE Candy
This is the tank at night.........without water of course :lmao:
This is the tank in the morning........I call it "fish tank in a spring morning"
This fish motif is in all the wrought iron work.......its sort of like a fish jumping out of the reeds..........but my fish will be well behaved and stay in the tank where they will be happy!!!!!! :love2:
Wine Closet
Peter
EYE Candy
This is the tank at night.........without water of course :lmao:
This is the tank in the morning........I call it "fish tank in a spring morning"
This fish motif is in all the wrought iron work.......its sort of like a fish jumping out of the reeds..........but my fish will be well behaved and stay in the tank where they will be happy!!!!!! :love2:
Wine Closet
Peter
createyourown
New member
This is the tank at night.........without water of course :lmao:
This is the tank in the morning........I call it "fish tank in a spring morning"
This fish motif is in all the wrought iron work.......its sort of like a fish jumping out of the reeds..........but my fish will be well behaved and stay in the tank where they will be happy!!!!!! :love2:
Wine Closet
Peter
The pictures were well worth the wait, stunning to say the least Peter!!
nineball
Active member
And now some homework for the experts........
And now some homework for the experts........
I have a question........My second chiller came with a slightly different pump with a small barrel canister filter /that the first one didn't have. I just realized that the tall canister filter sits after the pump but before the UV and the chiller. My question is................why isn't there a filter canister in front of the pump to protect it from the likely event of sand and gravel coming from the display tank.
This first closed loop (system A) does NOT have a prefilter canister in front of the pump.
I hope that made sense.
Comments????
And now some homework for the experts........
I have a question........My second chiller came with a slightly different pump with a small barrel canister filter /that the first one didn't have. I just realized that the tall canister filter sits after the pump but before the UV and the chiller. My question is................why isn't there a filter canister in front of the pump to protect it from the likely event of sand and gravel coming from the display tank.
This first closed loop (system A) does NOT have a prefilter canister in front of the pump.
I hope that made sense.
Comments????
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