Coral Tank from Canada (1350gal Display Tank)
- Thread starter nineball
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nineball
Active member
The sediment filter is the cheapest filter in the line-up and the cost goes up down the line. I change out my 2 sediments one extra time in between changing out the carbons and then maybe one more time before the DI is changed out if I catch it in time. I have well water with 420 TDS fresh from the holding tank, so I can't speak for what those with city water do with their systems.
I also think you need to procure a fine looking cabinet to store this new RO/DI unit in because it will no longer be looking sexy enough for the fishroom
Sounds like a shopping trip for Peter's fish room girls........wait a minute, he still doesn't have any fish room girls!!!
Peter
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
I will put in new sediment, carbon, membrane and DI (AGAIN) tomorrow. I just changed all of these in both filters September 18th. We only made 1,000 gallons of water.
The RO membrane in one unit is producing 95 TDS pre DI, 14 TDS post, while the other is producing 24 TDS pre DI, and 04 TDS post DI. The water exiting the RO should be 0-5 TDS and 0 after the DI knocks down the last remaining salts.
I have taken the unit apart more times than I care to mention. The unconventional design leads me to believe there is a bypass that is damaging the membranes or bypassing the membranes them selves. As a result, the DI has to work too hard to catch up. Instead of pulling 3 TDS down to zero, it's stumbling 95 down to 14.
I would prefer a system that uses clear canisters so you can see sediment cartridges change colour as they age, and DI resin change colour. Not much point in colour indicative resin if it's inside a black canister
It would also be nice to be able to measure RO water inline which this unit does not support. Right now I have one TDS probe on on DI exit and the other on unit #2 DI exit (product water).
With conventional units you can add additional or longer canisters/cartridges for longer duration between changes and more efficient operation. This black box design is limited to factory configuration. It doesn't even have a pressure gauge. It does have lots of lights and fake buttons on the front though
I like the Aqua-FX Octopus model because it produces the 200 GPD we get now but with a 1:1 product to waste ratio rather than the 1:5 we have now.
Here's the Octopus. I am hoping the TDS meter is Ac powered so I can check the product water at a glance. The DC powered inline TDS meters are great to have but they only work if you push the button Sometimes it can creep up on you, especially if the cartridge life is only six weeks! http://www.aquariumwaterfilters.com...=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=68&category_id=12
The RO membrane in one unit is producing 95 TDS pre DI, 14 TDS post, while the other is producing 24 TDS pre DI, and 04 TDS post DI. The water exiting the RO should be 0-5 TDS and 0 after the DI knocks down the last remaining salts.
I have taken the unit apart more times than I care to mention. The unconventional design leads me to believe there is a bypass that is damaging the membranes or bypassing the membranes them selves. As a result, the DI has to work too hard to catch up. Instead of pulling 3 TDS down to zero, it's stumbling 95 down to 14.
I would prefer a system that uses clear canisters so you can see sediment cartridges change colour as they age, and DI resin change colour. Not much point in colour indicative resin if it's inside a black canister
It would also be nice to be able to measure RO water inline which this unit does not support. Right now I have one TDS probe on on DI exit and the other on unit #2 DI exit (product water).
With conventional units you can add additional or longer canisters/cartridges for longer duration between changes and more efficient operation. This black box design is limited to factory configuration. It doesn't even have a pressure gauge. It does have lots of lights and fake buttons on the front though
I like the Aqua-FX Octopus model because it produces the 200 GPD we get now but with a 1:1 product to waste ratio rather than the 1:5 we have now.
Here's the Octopus. I am hoping the TDS meter is Ac powered so I can check the product water at a glance. The DC powered inline TDS meters are great to have but they only work if you push the button
Sometimes it can creep up on you, especially if the cartridge life is only six weeks! http://www.aquariumwaterfilters.com...=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=68&category_id=12
nineball
Active member
scubasteve06
Jeeper Reefer
Peter and Mr. Wilson I know it was mentioned once before but the Bulk Reef Supply build your own RO/DI unit is what I used when it came time to purchase a RO unit. I built my own 5 stage unit that makes 100gpd for 139.99. I also got free shipping on that order too, when they were having a special. I have not had to change any resin out yet or any carbon either and I have made at least 500 gallons with it so far. A far cry from your 1000 gallon use a month as I have only used half that in 6 months, but it still beats what you have now. I do also agree that the AquaticLife units are fancy smancy looking, but from what you are saying they don't perform to their looks. Check into the BRS RO/DI as there are many different options to cater to each individuals likings and what you want in your set-up.
Just the opposite is true, I'm in the water business, and my main business is commercial RO systems. Forcing more water through the RO would actually make it more efficient and the product water would have a lower TDS. Large commercial systems use pumps to force more water into the RO which creates a system that can produce thousands of gallons a day with half the waste and incredible TDS.
Mr. Wilson TDS of that high is terrible. Replacing pre filters will not do anything for TDS (it may come down 1 or 2 if your lucky). Pre filters have there own job, sediment filters is like it sounds for sediment. It will remove only that, our city does a decent job at that so you shouldnt be spoiling sediment filters too quickly. The carbon filter needs replacing more often. Carbon can only saturate so much chlorine, if chlorine is getting through it can damage the RO Membrane, I'm guessing thats your problem. After only 1000 gallons seems like you have some poor quality filters. TDS will only change after the RO and DI portions of the system not the filters. So if your TDS is high your having issues with the RO. Now how did you meassure 1000 gallons? is that what you have added to the tank? so 1000 gallons of product water? if so then really your prefilters have gone through about 4000 gallons, which would require a change on most "aquarium grade" units. I think I messaged you before, you guys need a commercial unit. Residential units which is what our aquarium brands put fancy labels on and pretend like its something special, will work for the guys with a 100 gallon aquarium. For a tank your size you will need a filter change every water change.
Plus to make matters worse you live in Oakville. Oakville as where I live Georgetown has some of the hardest water in North America. We need softeners. Softeners will increase your TDS and your calcium bicarbonate. Which is going to scale up your RO membrane in no time and create higher TDS again. So now your changing your pre filters every water change and your going to be replacing $100 RO membranes very often.
which commercial units do you recommend?
My favorite is from watts. There a leading brand in the water industry. I bring units in from these guys and sell a lot of them here in Ontario. I never have companies complain about it, never have any repairs, except the regular maintenance. Filter life exceeds manufacturers ratings. Now these systems are not for the average 90 gallon tank reefer. Its for people who have a fish room where there is room. Some of these units are wall mountable and some need some floor space. But these units have waste recirculation. So they use pumps to force water at a higher PSI which will create less waste and lower TDS. Then that waste will go to another pump which will force it into a second RO membrane. These units are rated for 1800gpd, depending on where you live that would translate into 1000 - 1600gpd with a 1 to 1 ratio (again depending on where you live and water quality) The units most reefers use are residential systems. Which work great if you have a small tank. If you need thousands of gallons a month like Peter does, then there is no way it can keep up.
If your seriously looking for one, PM me as I can get you in contact with a delaer in your area. I know quite a few people in Arizona.
If your seriously looking for one, PM me as I can get you in contact with a delaer in your area. I know quite a few people in Arizona.
bbart12
New member
Announce idea that I just thought aabout when it comes to water is contacting your local dialysis center. From what I have seen they thought use large canisters of DI resin to make their water pure enough to put I to a human. It might be interesting to finde out where they source it from locally and give them a call.
If you live in Ontario..... your looking at him!!:beachbum:
LOL I have supplied ST. Mikes, Josephs(toronto and hamilton), I have also supplied many pharmaceutical companies. I have even done the Canadian Food Inspection Agency. Believe it or not for you hardcore reefers who want a job taking care of fish. These guys called me saying they needed something for their aquarium
I scratched my head and was like why would they need a aquarium? Well turns out they work with the customs and importation of aquarium animals. If one of our local stores dont fill out the proper paper work when importing animals, it gets sent to the Food Inspection Agency because until it has proper paper work proving its for aquarium use, its still considered livestock/food and is held by them. So they have tanks to keep stuff alive in meantime while store gets everything done.A proper RO should take TDS of as high as 600 - 800 and bring it down to less than 5. Then DI comes in. The watts brands I mentioned above do not come with DI. Although that is a very simple step to add. The hospitals I simply took the product water and attched a line to the DI. Then post DI to the storeage containers.
Ohhh and sorry forgot to mention, the large containers your talking about isn't what you would need for an aquarium. Those softener looking things are DI resin but huge amounts. These units are used without any RO what so ever. DI can be used as a single form of purification and will take TDS down to 0. But depending on how poor the water is coming in the faster you will need to replace the resin. I know of a hospital who is using a system like that. I sold them some resin refills as their old supplier dropped out of business. They say they don't want to go with RO then DI because they feel the RO has waste water which is not enviromentally friendly. A lone DI would have 0 waste water. But that being said DI resin is extremely toxic and constantly emptying the containers and refilling resin is in my opinion worse. Thats crap were putting in the landfills. Wasted water down the drain will just make its way back again.
nineball
Active member
If you live in Ontario..... your looking at him!!:beachbum:
LOL I have supplied ST. Mikes, Josephs(toronto and hamilton), I have also supplied many pharmaceutical companies. I have even done the Canadian Food Inspection Agency. Believe it or not for you hardcore reefers who want a job taking care of fish. These guys called me saying they needed something for their aquarium
A proper RO should take TDS of as high as 600 - 800 and bring it down to less than 5. Then DI comes in. The watts brands I mentioned above do not come with DI. Although that is a very simple step to add. The hospitals I simply took the product water and attched a line to the DI. Then post DI to the storeage containers.
Thanks Chago, Mr. Wilson and I will be meeting this afternoon and we will be discussing our options on RO..........
Peter
nineball
Active member
Dead Live Rock
Dead Live Rock
Anyone who has been following this thread from the outset knows that I got 2200 lbs of Jakarta premium branch rock for my aquascape. I am now facing my wife who is asking what I am planning to do with the rock left over. It's nice looking rock but it is no longer live. Any one within driving distance of Oakville who would like/need some free dead live rock is welcome to come and get some. I am sending some to thunder bay to a member of this community. Its been sitting in a kiddie pool full of uncirculated salt water but I'm pretty sure its dead by now. There's also a tour of the tank for any takers....... just let me know soon because my wife has me on a short noose!!!!
Peter
Dead Live Rock
Anyone who has been following this thread from the outset knows that I got 2200 lbs of Jakarta premium branch rock for my aquascape. I am now facing my wife who is asking what I am planning to do with the rock left over. It's nice looking rock but it is no longer live. Any one within driving distance of Oakville who would like/need some free dead live rock is welcome to come and get some. I am sending some to thunder bay to a member of this community. Its been sitting in a kiddie pool full of uncirculated salt water but I'm pretty sure its dead by now. There's also a tour of the tank for any takers....... just let me know soon because my wife has me on a short noose!!!!
Peter
SaraB
Coral Killer
The source water you want to be more then 50psi for any RO system. Although with these systems, they use a booster pump so it really turns up the power. Like the watts unit uses a 1/2hp pump. The preassure at which it enters the RO after the pump, to be honest I don't know. If your source water is less then 50 psi, your home unit is going to run very inefficiently on both accounts, waste water and poor TDS reduction. RO Membranes work best with high preassure and believe it or not room temperature water. The colder and warmer the water also will make it inefficient. But that we can't fight, we all hook into our cold water lines and whatever temperature it is... it is.
Would 100psi be to high?
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