Coralife 29 - Lighting upgrade?

[pdiehm]

I have a Coralife Biocube, and the stock lighting is fine but it appears that I am going to be limited in what corals I can keep in there.

Marine Depot recommends the Current USA TrueLumen Pro Dual Dimmable LED Striplight Kit (http://www.marinedepot.com/Current_...xtures-Current_USA-CU03100-FILTFILDLK-vi.html).

Question I have is this kit would appear just by looking at it (1 Marine Fusion 12k white & 453nm blue and 1 Deepwater Blue 453nm strip) would appear to have a very blue tint.

Now, in reading the item description, appears you can dim the blue down to get more white.

Would these 2 strips alone give me more options in corals and placement, such as a Torch midlevel vs near the top with the stock PC's?

Or would I need to add a 3rd strip of say 14k diamond white?

 

[ReefWreak]

2 would probably be okay for your use, I would definitely lean towards 3. You might as well get mix blue/white.

Keep in mind that with LEDs, the old rules of PAR don't apply. It used to be "the more white you had, the more PAR you were providing to your corals, and blue is for aesthetics". That doesn't apply with LEDs, because in fact the blues are higher in PAR, and promote growth, more than white LEDs. White is good for our visual perception of the corals, but blue is the growth driver.

Are you at all handy? If so I would strongly recommend looking into the RapidLED retrofit kits for the biocube. It'll give you all of the flexibility you could/would ever want.

For reference, my 29g biocube came with 3xEcoxotic Panorama Pro 2.0, two white/blue, and one blue/magenta. My colors and growth were pretty okay even running at 100%, but I knew I could get more of both color and growth. I took the plunge on the RapidLED full-spectrum solderless kit, and my colors are fantastic, and I'm getting tons of growth as well (though 2 part dosing is almost if not more important for growth).

So if you're handy, I would strongly recommend going with the RapidLED retrofit kits instead.

If you want to try a retrofit kit out inexpensively, shoot me a PM, I would sell my ecoxotic setup for a song (it's sitting in a box currently).

 

[pdiehm]

I can build stuff out of wood...but when it comes to electrical things, and wiring...no. I'm a complete and utter moron when it comes to that stuff. I've seen Steve's LED kit and RapidLED kit, but both of them require cutting, and removing precise wires, which, I honestly don't trust myself to do.

With the TrueLumen Pro strip lights, it's as simple as removing the bulbs, the clips, adding doublesided tape, linking the lights together and voila. So if I go with the LED's it'll probably be something that is essentially plug and play.

I was thinking:

1 Strip of Marine Fusion (the 12k and 453nm)
1 Strip of the Deepwater Blue (453nm)
1 Strip of the 14k Diamond White.

While I want better lights, the depth of my coral keeping will be LPS because I don't have the interest or time to go into dosing on a 29 gallon tank.

Truth be told, I probably could get away with the stock PC's for the corals I would want to keep, but I have this thing about replacing lights every 6 months....I just don't like to do it

Not to mention, I don't think the stock power compacts will allow me to get an anemone at some point, which I would like to get and see if it would host the clowns.

 

[ReefWreak]

Remember that PCs/VHO/HO lights have been used for the hobby for decades, anmones, SPS, etc

I definitely agree on replacing the bulbs. That being said, while LEDs "last a lifetime", their drivers, if not properly cooled, can and will burn out, sometimes in 6 months, sometimes a long long way down the road. So while it's nice to think that it's a "do it once and you're set for life" thing, the reality is that they aren't. That's one of the reasons I took the time to build and figure out the retrofit kit. If something goes bad, the most any individual part costs is like $35, so it can be swapped out piece by piece.

I think the options you chose make sense, and with the white and blue dedicated channels, you'll have independent control over your color, so that's good. You should have plenty of light, just make sure to keep the hood cool.

You should be able to have any corals you want survive, and possibly thrive.

I know you don't want to do 2 part dosing, but at minimum, if you want growth long term, I would buy some kalkwasser powder. Just put in a teaspoon full in your top up gallon jug, and that's it. Super simple, super cheap, and it'll allow your corals to grow, as well as raise your pH, and potentially bind up phosphates to reduce algae growth. It's the easiest thing in the world if you're doing manual top off.

 

[pdiehm]

I have my tunze nano ato set up now (I got tired of adding it manually). So a teaspoon of kalk in my ATO container would suffice? Do I need to put my ATO pump on something like a light diffuser so I don't suck up the powder?

funny you should mention the white/blue on dedicated channels...that's one of the questions that I posed to Current. Can I control each strip, or the intensity of the strips?

Example is:

If I go with 3 strips as mentioned above (Diamond White, Marine Fusion, and Deepwater). Can I have the diamond white and fusion on one channel, and somehow have them set to 75% max power (as an example) and the deepwater blue set at say 85%...and ramp up over time until I get there, then ramp down to the point where the diamond white and fusion are off, and only the deepwater blue's on, running at say 2%? I've been keeping the stock 3 actinic moonlights on 24/7, but if I add 3 strips, I am pretty sure they have to be removed.

My plan is to keep the fans on a timer program, that should alleviate the heat issue.

But as with anything it seems in this hobby, You get into a ****ing match. People say the current LED's won't work because the strips are 9W, and the panorama's are 19W...

But as I mentioned above, The most complex coral that I can see myself keeping in that tank is an LPS maze brain.

If I keep the PC's, I could easily swap out the 10k bulb with a 14k bulb, but I love the look of the LED, and since I added the Photon 48 to my 120 downstairs, I'm now spoiled and want full control and ramp up and ramp down capability

 

[ReefWreak]

It looks like from the parts list in the kit you linked to above, each strip comes with a dimmer controller. It is a manual dimmer. I think you have to get their digital controller if you wanted to do anything fancy, like sunset dimming. It's the controller I have that was used with my Ecoxotic Panorama pros (they all use those same DC power plugs).

With the stock kits, all you can do is manual dimming level, and then use a timer for on/off.

As far as wattage goes, technically a watt is a watt, but the diodes, reflectors, etc all play a big role in the efficiency of converting that watt to usable light (PAR), so it's not necessarily true that a watt is a watt in lighting. The only real way to make a viable comparison is to find the PAR of each at a distance, and then read the power draw (wattage and amperage) at the wall, and then see the efficiency of the two and compare those.

Either way, I think you'll be okay with that setup, but I'd feel better if you could find someone else using those lights currently, and seeing their impressions. Not reviews, but like build threads on ReefCentral or another forum site.

 

[pdiehm]

I just posted...let's see. Marine Depot is adament that this kit, as is (without the 14k diamond white strip) will grow anything that I want.

 

[ReefWreak]

It probably will, but so will a few 60w incandecent bulbs over your tank. Doesn't mean your coral will grow vigorously and/or colorfully.

This thread can help understand what PAR is and why it matters (particularly around the Post #9 area)

And this is a great article on LED and lighting, for your reference.

 

[pdiehm]

Been reading that the Panorama Pro LED's are better suited for growing coral, but having problems finding them in anything but white.

Current continues to say this be enough...I'm hesitant to believe them.

 

[ReefWreak]

I think they might be phasing the Panorama Pro's out for their RGB models or more standard Panorama mixed color fixtures. No more custom fixtures I guess. I don't like the idea of RGB, as I can't imagine that with having multiple diodes inside one single mounting/lens that it's not creating more heat than necessary....

 

[pdiehm]

After going back and forth with ReefWreak, who was exceptional at relaying information, options and such...spent last night, and today plotting...planning the upgrade strategy.

The Plan

Take my stock Coralife Biocube 29, with the 36W Power Compacts and learn. Grow mushrooms, zoanthids, and ricordia. Learn with stuff that you almost have to try to kill.

During this time, since my 120 gallon main display is pretty much all set up and ready to go (aside from fish and more easy to grow corals, but with my lights, I can go well into the LPS/SPS land if I chose to do so), pay down the credit card, and plan how to upgrade the biocube 29.

First thing would be removing the hood. Been playing with it today seeing how loud it is and such. It's not loud, and with the TV on, it's not noticable.

Second, would be getting a decent powerhead like an mp10 quiet drive. I currently have a Koralia 425 nano, and while it suffices right now, this tank will be in my main family room. Suffice just doesn't cut it.

Third, ditch the Tunze 9001 Skimmer and get a better HOB skimmer, like an Aquamaxx. Overkill yes, but i'd rather overskim than underskim.

Fourth, invest in the lighting. I'm not sure which way to go with this. I could see myself getting the Kessil 360 wide angle. It's sleek, it looks nice, and would have a very simple gooseneck. Other options would be the Ecotech XR15's, mainly because if I get an MP10, I can control both with reeflink. Another option is the Aqua Illumination Prime. Issue with the prime is the mounting arm sucks hairy balls. Horrible reviews. Whatever i get will need to be able to be mounted over the top trim. That's not coming off.

Fifth, get an apex jr, though if i do these upgrades, I am probably going to be forced to get the next step up, which upsets me, as I just saw a full apex set for $200 here.

Lastly, probably upgrade the return pump...haven't researched this at all, so I'm not sure what I will go with. I love my Sicce 4.0 on the 120 (and I may bump that up to a 5.0 on black friday). It's silent. Once I put some vinyl tubing on the output, it became dead silent. Big fan of Sicce products.

the items above are not in any particular order.

Items:

Kessil A360N "Tuna Blue"
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/kessil-a360n-a360w-controllable-led-aquarium-light.html

AI Prime
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/aqua-illumination-prime-led-module.html

Maxspect Nano
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/maxspect-60w-nano-r420r-razor-led-lighting-fixture.html

Ecotech Radion XR15w
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/ecotech-radion-xr15w-pro-led-light-fixture-1.html

Aquamaxx HOB-1 Skimmer
http://www.marinedepot.com/AquaMaxx...ein_Skimmers-AquaMaxx-UJ1151-FIPSHONW-vi.html

Ecotech MP10wQD
http://www.marinedepot.com/EcoTech_...werheads-EcoTech_Marine-EM1233-FIPHAD-vi.html


That's the start. Definitely looking forward to having this tank be the center of attention once you go in that room.

 

[JakeK]

Very timely discussion as I'm about to upgrade. My top two choices are stevesleds and nano box reef retro-fit kits. For the not-so-electrically inclined, is one kit easier to install than the other?

 

[stifrk]

I used bubbasguppies for my bio cube, came with a custom milled aluminum heatsink. He now has a wireless controller and led pucks that allow tons of control. I will try and dig up pics. The owner is local to me so he did some custom work and the price was very reasonable.

 

[pdiehm]

Sounds like me. I think I am skipping any electrical and removing the hood

I am fairly confident in the plan I laid out. No electrical work needed

 

[stifrk]

Very timely discussion as I'm about to upgrade. My top two choices are stevesleds and nano box reef retro-fit kits. For the not-so-electrically inclined, is one kit easier to install than the other?

The kit I got was very easy to install as I am not very electrically inclined either.

 

[ReefWreak]

1) Tank shouldn't be loud with no top on. I would HIGHLY recommend getting a mesh netting for the top though. Too many fish like to jump unfortunately. You'll also evaporate a lot, so get an ATO (Tunze Nano looks to be reasonably priced and is highly regarded).

2) MP10W quiet should be great. I love my MP10W currently, but it is noisy as heck unfortunately. I also paid less than half of new retail for it, so I don't mind terribly, but I can hear it while sleeping in the room nextdoor.

3) My first questioning of the choices. How old is your tank? I have an aquaticlife 115, and I can't imagine the 9001 being much worse efficiency wise. With my AQ115 I'm already appropriately skimming, if not over skimming. Unless you really like feeding a lot of food, or very often, you shouldn't really need a larger skimmer I don't think. I'm curious as to your rationale behind this. Are you having algae problems currently?

4) If money is no concern, ecotech is always a good way to go. I love my LEDs on my nano, they're perfect. I have concerns about LEDs over deeper tanks, but for a 29g cube it's the perfect option, and the ecotech should be well supported and like you said ties in nicely with the MP10W.

5) If you're setting up two tanks, it might be worth seeing the options for one controller to control both sets of tanks. Just a thought. The Apex is nice though. I have a DA reefkeeper because it came with my tank, but if I were starting from scratch, that's the direction I'd go.

6) You could try a new return pump, but IMO they'll all be loud. If you do anything, just try a cobalt MJ1200 first, the nice italian made ones, and see how that goes. At least it's cheap, even if all it does is increase your flow for the same noise level.

Looks like you're headed in the right direction, and most of the equipment that you're looking at can always be repurposed either as a QT setup for the 29g once the 120 is up, or maybe a frag tank or other uses of the equipment as you scale up to a larger tank.

Good luck!

 

[homer1475]

I can tell you from experience, the cobalt mj1200 is louder then the stock return. I have an mj1200 running a reactor and I can definitely tell when its on. My stock return is dead silent. Make sure it's suctioned to the bottom of the chamber, and away from the walls. Otherwise it rattles something fierce.

 

[raven312]

This is a helpful thread for me, as I just set up my Biocube 29 last night. I was going to replace the stock bulbs (I bought the tank used and one is out), but after seeing how LOUD the fans are in my quiet room I ordered a Kessil A160WE. I'm hoping this works out. I'm on the way to HD now to find some netting and make a top. I'll be following your thread to see how you progress.

 

[ReefWreak]

My pump is floating/hanging from it's power cord and the stock hardline tube from the elbow that goes to the main display. It doesn't sit on the bottom, and doesn't have any support from the bottom. It's reasonably quiet. My MP10w is loud as heck, as are the fans. I bought replacement fans, but just haven't gotten around to swapping them out. I'm not even sure if they'll be any quieter.

 

[homer1475]

The only thing I hear from my tank is the mj1200, and my skimmer foaming away. SilenX fans, dead silent, Stock return, dead silent, MP10WQD, dead silent.