Coralife BioCube 29g Build

I had issues with my probe being in the same chamber as my heater. It would read wrong when the heater came on and as such I moved it to the third chamber.
 
My heater and temp probe both sit in the third chamber with no issue. Well my heater technically sits in that little space where the stock foam used to sit(long glass tube type), and my probe is on the side wall of the third chamber with the apex probe holder which also hold my ATO line, and reactor output line.

I DIYed 2 PC case fans where my back lid used to be. Works very well blowing in across the water and out the front lid. Controlled with the apex my temps never fluctuate more then .5 degrees. Depending on much air the ones you bought push, you'll be surprised how much they are on.
 
Perhaps my probe was too close to my heater but I got some serious fluctuations having it in the same chamber. It was reading when my cobalt would fire on then kill the outlet too soon and my dt temp was suffering slightly. Moving to the third chamber with my heater in 1 solved my issues.

Also the temp settings seem weird to me. The heater is set to 76 but isnt turned on till temp drops to 77. So it would be over the temp needed thus the heater not actually coming on. Seems like you are getting the majority of your heat via your lighting and heat transfer from your skimmer pump.


I will try to remember tonight to look into whether I have a light for the spare qt tank I have. I know you will need a heater if you want it but if I have a spare light then you are covered for everything else. I have a spare hob filter sitting around as well I do believe.
 
Perhaps my probe was too close to my heater but I got some serious fluctuations having it in the same chamber. It was reading when my cobalt would fire on then kill the outlet too soon and my dt temp was suffering slightly. Moving to the third chamber with my heater in 1 solved my issues.

Also the temp settings seem weird to me. The heater is set to 76 but isnt turned on till temp drops to 77. So it would be over the temp needed thus the heater not actually coming on. Seems like you are getting the majority of your heat via your lighting and heat transfer from your skimmer pump.


I will try to remember tonight to look into whether I have a light for the spare qt tank I have. I know you will need a heater if you want it but if I have a spare light then you are covered for everything else. I have a spare hob filter sitting around as well I do believe.


When I look at the temp graph, it looks like sine wave where the lowest point is in the morning right before my lights come on. I also have a glass thermometer in the display tank and it shows the same thing the temp probe shows. Because it is almost always above 76 degrees, I am thinking the heater practically never comes on. Also, I don't see drastic and quick happening spikes, so I doubt the heater coming on is causing my temp probe to see higher than actual temps. Also, FWIW, the temp probe is closest to chamber 1 and the heater is closest to chamber 2. If the water is moving from right to left (when looking at from the front) then the heated water would move away from the temp probe. But I see your point. I will most likely move the heater to chamber 3 and have my probe stay in chamber 2.

I really appreciate the QT tank offer! Will save me the added cost for now. ;)
 
Coralife BioCube 29g Build

My heater and temp probe both sit in the third chamber with no issue. Well my heater technically sits in that little space where the stock foam used to sit(long glass tube type), and my probe is on the side wall of the third chamber with the apex probe holder which also hold my ATO line, and reactor output line.

I DIYed 2 PC case fans where my back lid used to be. Works very well blowing in across the water and out the front lid. Controlled with the apex my temps never fluctuate more then .5 degrees. Depending on much air the ones you bought push, you'll be surprised how much they are on.


The Apex probe holder is like $40 on Amazon, which seemed a bit expensive for what it's doing, but maybe I should just get it. I do intend to add an ATO and a pH probe at some point. Maybe even another probe down the road. I figured I could find something similar for less money though. It's a principal things I guess. LOL

The fan strip arrived. I have to take a kid to soccer, but will check it out tonight and post some pics. Not sure if I will get to modifying the hood tonight or not, but will have time tomorrow for sure.

BTW, I saw your fan mod (they are sitting on top of egg crate, right?) and was going to do something similar, but then I saw this when I searched on Amazon. No idea if it will be as good as I envisioned, but it was only $26, so not a major investment if it was a waste.

More to come!
 
I ordered some more stuff (didn't even finish unpacking my other stuff that arrived). :spin1::lmao:

I ordered the following:
  • 200 gallon box of Instant Ocean Reef Crystals. Soulpatch had clued me into the fact that Red Sea Coral Pro salt may cause levels to go too high and that he mixed the Red Sea salt with Reef Crystals.
  • Apex Power Bar 8 outlet. With the 4 on the Apex Jr, this gives me 12 total controlled outlets. I think that will actually cover every one of my power cord requirements for now without stacking. With adding the fans, and the fact that I will be adding additional probes and an ATO down the (not-too-distant) road, I figured no time like the present.
  • Apex Probe Rack. I looked around and didn't really see anything super cheap and would rather have something designed for the Apex probes (including the larger than others Temp probe), so I spent the $40. My temp probe tends to move around a bit since it is not held in place by anything.

Some things I still need to get, and will look for at MACNA on Sunday:
  • DT mag scraper. I noticed a ton of the minuscule clear crustaceans on my display tank glass. I get these in my freshwater tank and am wondering if they came from using my tap water with API's Stress Coat+ to top off my tank since I still don't have my RO/DI yet. Or is this normal??
  • Powerhead for my saltwater Brute trash can to help mix the salt and keep the water circulated.
  • Two heaters - 1 for the saltwater Brute can, and 1 for the QT tank.
  • I'm sure I'm forgetting some other stuff too... always seem to think of something else I didn't get yet.
 
I ordered some more stuff (didn't even finish unpacking my other stuff that arrived). :spin1::lmao:

Some things I still need to get, and will look for at MACNA on Sunday:
  • DT mag scraper. I noticed a ton of the minuscule clear crustaceans on my display tank glass. I get these in my freshwater tank and am wondering if they came from using my tap water with API's Stress Coat+ to top off my tank since I still don't have my RO/DI yet. Or is this normal??

You're not using tap water for top-off are you? Hopefully that's just for your FW setup?

I would recommend without hesitation the flipper nano magnet. You will need to scrap glass, and it's as good as any for non-scraping duties as well. Should be about $25, buy it once and be done forever.
 
Last edited:
get either the flipper nano or the tunze nano scrapper. I have the flipper and like it a lot but might grab a tunze for next tank since there is less contact with the glass.

Since you got the box of salt get yourself a bucket or something to put it in that seals well. The salt will pull moisture and start to clump and such. I use the buckets they sell and even that if I forget to close tightly will have some clumping at the top. Even now when I order a bucket I transplant it into an older bucket that has a plastic liner in it that I seal first then the lip of the bucket to ensure everything stays dry.

I imagine your RODI should be in this week? Once you get that in do a large water change. Since you used the nutri water you could get some life forms from that. Even in the salt we can get some things technically. nature finds a way. Just wait till Tuesday when you get the first batch of rock and everything you will see in your tank.

If you are free later this evening maybe you want to stop by my house to see the setup and we can ensure you have everything that one of us might be overlooking right now. Will warn though that the house is a mess as it typically is every summer when we are ALWAYS out on weekends.
 
And I agree with Reef. The tap water wil have high TDS and such and at this stage you dont need skimmer running and as such water level is not as critical. Just let it go. If you really need RODI then come over to my place and grab some. LOL
 
I've been pretty happy with my bucket of RC. My first water change with the bucket (and most of the original bag of IO that I used) kept getting calcium precipitation in the bottom, but I've been leaving two bags of desiccants from a shoebox or some household good packaging in a cup in the bucket of RC, and I haven't seen any clumping in the salt or precipitation in my prep bucket since. Probably coincidence, but I feel better about it.
 
You're not using tap water for top-off are you? Hopefully that's just for your FW setup?

Unfortunately, I still don't have my RO/DI system yet (supposed to arrive tomorrow), so I was using tap water with the API Stress Coat+ to dechlorinate the tap water. So far I have only replaced about 1 gallon of evaporated water like this. Keep in mind, there is NOTHING in the tank yet except water and equipment.

When I filled the tank originally I used 4 of the PETCO saltwater jugs, and about 3/4 of a Nutri-Seawater jug.

My first part of the TBS "the package" will arrive on Tuesday, and since the tank may go through a mini cycle, I figured it wasn't that big of a deal since I would be doing water changes before adding any livestock.

I do NOT intend to use any more dechlorinated tap water in the tank going forward, but am I okay with what I've done so far?
 
Whats done is done but dont do any more. The issue with this is not so much the chloramines but everything else in the water. The stress coat doesnt really remove everything needed to avoid issues like algae or such.

Are you cycling the tank now? I thought the package was to prety much instantly cycle the tank. If you dont get your RODI this week then I can bring mine over if needed or we truck water from my house over to yours.

With nothing in the tank I wouldnt worry too much about evap. The slight swing in salinity is not going to do too much in the tank.
 
get either the flipper nano or the tunze nano scrapper. I have the flipper and like it a lot but might grab a tunze for next tank since there is less contact with the glass.

Was hoping to possibly get this at macna on Sunday... if not, I'll order one.

Since you got the box of salt get yourself a bucket or something to put it in that seals well. The salt will pull moisture and start to clump and such. I use the buckets they sell and even that if I forget to close tightly will have some clumping at the top. Even now when I order a bucket I transplant it into an older bucket that has a plastic liner in it that I seal first then the lip of the bucket to ensure everything stays dry.

Yes, I was thinking I would want to get a couple 5 gallon buckets with lids to transfer it to. I thought about getting the large RC bucket, but it wasn't Prime and I figured I may go through a lot in the next couple of weeks.

I imagine your RODI should be in this week? Once you get that in do a large water change. Since you used the nutri water you could get some life forms from that. Even in the salt we can get some things technically. nature finds a way. Just wait till Tuesday when you get the first batch of rock and everything you will see in your tank.

I was thinking it could be the Nutri-Seawater, but wasn't sure. There is also a film of sorts on the glass inside the tank. It makes the tank look a little cloudy. My RODI should be here tomorrow. I got the Brute cans today, and the salt will be here Saturday. So I will probably make some water & saltwater on Saturday/Sunday night.

If you are free later this evening maybe you want to stop by my house to see the setup and we can ensure you have everything that one of us might be overlooking right now. Will warn though that the house is a mess as it typically is every summer when we are ALWAYS out on weekends.

I think I am free, so I'd love to stop by tonight. Would be good to meet you in person before trying to find each other in DC for macna on Sunday anyway! LOL

I'll text you either way... and please do not worry about the house being messy. The only reason I have to clean before you come over on Tuesday is because of my wife... she cleans like crazy for her own mother coming over... women.:rolleyes:
 
Whats done is done but dont do any more. The issue with this is not so much the chloramines but everything else in the water. The stress coat doesnt really remove everything needed to avoid issues like algae or such.

Are you cycling the tank now? I thought the package was to prety much instantly cycle the tank. If you dont get your RODI this week then I can bring mine over if needed or we truck water from my house over to yours.

With nothing in the tank I wouldnt worry too much about evap. The slight swing in salinity is not going to do too much in the tank.

I am not cycling the tank, but I was talking about once I get the sand/rock from TBS. It seems like most people never see an ammonia spike at all (of any substance anyway), but I've read some having a little.

Technically I don't need to run the tank at all right now, right? I was really only running it to get a feel for the temp swings and evap rates. Now that I will be adding the fans where the back lid goes, I imagine the evap will ramp up quite a bit.

I'm glad I have been running it at any rate, because it made me feel more comfortable for once I start getting stuff in it. And it raised a lot of questions and needs I didn't think of until I started running it.
 
Two more questions:
1) What is TDS??
2) Is there any reason I can't use the RODI water for my freshwater tank once I am able to produce RODI?

For the second question, I ask because I am getting a TON of brown algae in my freshwater tank and my wife is ****ed (it's in our dining room). I need to figure out how to get rid of it, but also would like to figure out how to prevent it in the first place. If I can use RODI water to help with that it would be great. And if I can, I am thinking I won't have to use the API Stress Coat+ at all (??).
 
If I were you I would drain it then. Let it dry over the weekend and fill with fresh reef crystal salt water before the package comes given that you get the RODI unit in time. If not I can help on that front.

That way you are sure you dont have any TDS in the water or anythign else that could fuel algae or such once set up. Just dont tell the wife you are draining the tank and draining that money in water down the tube...
 
I can take a look at the type of algae in your FW when I come over on Tuesday.

Yes you technically can use rodi for freshwater but you will need to get suppliments for it to replace the minerals and such the rodi unit strips.
 
Two more questions:
1) What is TDS??
2) Is there any reason I can't use the RODI water for my freshwater tank once I am able to produce RODI? (??).

1)Total Dissolved Solids, basically minerals dissolved in water, usually calcium, iron, sometimes low levels of nitrate and copper. RO membrane strips most of these, and we don't want any copper, nitrates, or silicates nomatter how small in our tank water.

2) soulpatch can help since he's a FW guru too. I would imagine it's probably not ideal unless you're adding back those "cichlid salts" or whatever other water buffers/salts to bring the freshwater back to natural levels for the habitat of whatever you're keeping (i.e. no FW fish comes from a river that is RODI, there's always some natural salts, heavy metals, silts, etc, and they may not live well/nicely in truely pure water, just as humans have to be careful when drinking RODI because you do get some [small amount] of calcium and other minerals from drinking tap water).
 
Just dont tell the wife you are draining the tank and draining that money in water down the tube...

EXACTLY what I was thinking. Maybe I'll just tell her I had to do it to "cure" the tank before adding anything. LOL

I would say it's about $50 in saltwater. :headwally:

I can take a look at the type of algae in your FW when I come over on Tuesday.

Yes you technically can use rodi for freshwater but you will need to get suppliments for it to replace the minerals and such the rodi unit strips.

I was hoping you could look at my freshwater tank since you had a beautiful planted tank until recently. I have some plants in mine, but I did NOT start off correctly. We have a 55 gallon tank sitting in our hallway that I plan to migrate the FW to, including a new stand and canopy the wife wants, but will be much more functional anyway. I would like to set the 55g tank up properly to be a fairly self sustaining planted tank. So I'd love your advice on that one too.

Keep in mind, that tank is only about 3 months old, and that was my initiation back into the hobby after probably more than 20-25 years. I wanted to go SW, but the guy at PETCO sort of talked me out of it (part of it was my impatience). But ever since that week I have bought about 19 books on reef/saltwater and have been scouring RC to do as much research as I possibly can. Even with all that I still feel like I don't know anything! :lol:
 
Back
Top