Corals are slowly dying and I can't figure out why??

AbSeasonal Rainfall and Runoff Promote Coral Disease on an Inshore Reef
tract

http://www.plosone.org/article/info:doi/10.1371/journal.pone.0016893



Background
Declining water quality coupled with the effects of climate change are rapidly increasing coral diseases on reefs worldwide, although links between coral diseases and environmental parameters remain poorly understood. This is the first study to document a correlation between coral disease and water quality on an inshore reef.

Methodology/Principal Findings
The temporal dynamics of the coral disease atramentous necrosis (AN) was investigated over two years within inshore populations of Montipora aequituberculata in the central Great Barrier Reef, in relation to rainfall, salinity, temperature, water column chlorophyll a, suspended solids, sedimentation, dissolved organic carbon, and particulate nitrogen, phosphorus and organic carbon. Overall, mean AN prevalence was 10-fold greater during summer wet seasons than winter dry seasons. A 2.5-fold greater mean disease abundance was detected during the summer of 2009 (44 ± SE 6.7 diseased colonies per 25 m2), when rainfall was 1.6-fold greater than in the summer of 2008. 1Two water quality parameters explained 67% of the variance in monthly disease prevalence in a Partial Least Squares regression analysis; disease abundance was negatively correlated with salinity (R2 = −0.6) but positively correlated with water column particulate organic carbon concentration (R2 = 0.32). Seasonal temperature patterns were also positively correlated with disease abundance, but explained only a small portion of the variance.
 
Is it possible that adding Iodine to the water will help in treating bacterial infection in corals?


I've used lugol's in dip concentrations on many occassions and while it may stun an asterina star or nudibranch or two.I've never seen it stop a coral infection even in the relatively high concentrations used in a dip.
I don't think even the manufacturer claims antiseptic benefits at the aquarium dosing level of 0.06ppm.. If it were dosed in high enough concentrations to have an anti microbial effect ,the I2 in it would harm desireable organisms including corals,imo. Even when dosed at low levels some localized concentration of the I2 may occur depending on how and where it is dosed and is a cause for concern.
 
Doesnt the iodine get reduced immediately in the aquarium? I recall that it doesnt last in the aquarium for very long, perhaps a few hours at the most..Im not sure on this....
 
Yes, it will quickly react with organics, some of which becomes iodinated organic matter and some would go back to iodide (I-). I've not see any data on how fast that actually is.
 
One thing that may be worth trying once coral start to bleach is to reduce the tank water temperature to what would be the winter low temperature in the regions that the coral come from. There have been quite a few articles including two of the articles I posted above that find that bleached coral recover best at these lower temperatures. The theory is that the beneficial bacteria due better at the lower temperatures than do the disease causing bacteria, thus allowing the beneficial bacteria to make a come-back in the coral mucal layer. :)
 
Temperature Stress and Coral Bleaching 2004
Paul L. Jokiel

http://cramp.wcc.hawaii.edu/Downloads/Publications/BC_Jokiel_2004_bleaching_chapter.pdf

From it:

"Most of the O. patagonia colonies bleach annually during the summer months as temperatures reach a maximum of 30–31 °C (Kushmaro
et al. 1996, 1998). The corals recover during the winter months when SST falls to a minimum of 16 °C.The bacterium dies and lyses at the low temperature
and cannot be detected in corals during the winter months. A similar bleaching relationship between the ubiquitous Pacific coral Pocillipora damicornis and the
bacterium Vibrio coralyticus have also been demonstrated (Ben-Haim and Rosenberg 2002). It remains to be seen if such bacterial processes are involved in regional mass bleaching events (see Chap. 25, Rosenberg, this Vol.)."
 
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A few months ago my xenia was looking a bit "tired", withered around the polyps, and started to "melt". When I checked my iodine level was really low, I started dosing to try and get it up to normal levels, and witnessed my xenia come back to life. Coincidence?
 
Clifff, I've read posts where folks argue for maintaining lower on going temperature ranges in reef tanks as more disease free. I doubt anyone can manage a 61 to 88 degree F range though. A cold water relocation treatment for certain corals might be worth a shot though.
 
A few months ago my xenia was looking a bit "tired", withered around the polyps, and started to "melt". When I checked my iodine level was really low, I started dosing to try and get it up to normal levels, and witnessed my xenia come back to life. Coincidence?

Most likely, yes (IMO), but if you like the effects you observe when dosing iodine, and especially iodide, there's no reason to not do so as long as you are not overdosing. :)
 
Clifff, I've read posts where folks argue for maintaining lower on going temperature ranges in reef tanks as more disease free. I doubt anyone can manage a 61 to 88 degree F range though. A cold water relocation treatment for certain corals might be worth a shot though.

I don't know of anyone that has tried lowering temperature myself, once bleaching occurs, to say 70 - 73 F. I don't know if you actually have to go to the low of 70 F. It would be nice if the scientists who did the research provided a low end range of temperature where they saw the appropriate bacteria recovering and the other bad bacteria dieing off.

Perhaps shooting for a median temperature may be best to keep tanks at. If you figure a healthy range between 70 - 82 F. That provides a median around 76 F. :) Anything over 85 F. causes problems for sure for coral.

IIRC some of the research was finding slower skeletal growth at the higher Summer temperatures than at the median temperatures. I think (IMHO) 76-78 F. may be the best range if hobbyists can keep it there. ;)
 
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My Xenia started to die off when I reduced nitrate and phosphate too low. When I allowed both to increase, the Xenia made a come back. I'm not sure if it was the combination of the two or one or the other regarding reducing nitrate and phosphate too low. Xenia do come from higher phosphate/nitrate waters than SPS coral do. ;)
 
I don't know of anyone that has tried lowering temperature myself, once bleaching occurs, to say 70 - 73 F. I don't know if you actually have to go to the low of 70 F. It would be nice if the scientists who did the research provided a low end range of temperature where they saw the appropriate bacteria recovering and the other bad bacteria dieing off.

Perhaps shooting for a median temperature may be best to keep tanks at. If you figure a healthy range between 70 - 82 F. That provides a median around 76 F. :) Anything over 85 F. causes problems for sure for coral.

IIRC some of the research was finding slower skeletal growth at the higher Summer temperatures than at the median temperatures. I think (IMHO) 76-78 F. may be the best range if hobbyists can keep it there. ;)



The study you cited does give 16C(61F)as a minimum temp were infecting bacteria are affected,unless I misread it. I was thinking of treating corals with persistent infections by chilling them for a day or two . Wonder if that has been tried.I wasn't thinking of lowering the temperature in the whole tank.
 
I've kept the same colony of xenia and it's asexual progeny for over 8 yrs in a variety of conditions. It's the first coral I ever kept. My son bought a small frag for me.
As I uderstand it they grow in different areas on the reef ,walking about opportunistically. The strongest suggestions are that they have limited feeding ability and rely on dissolved organics . IME, a new skimmer caused a crash with a subsequent recovery several years ago. In my tanks they now live in low PO4/NO3 water but grow more in a 65 g I have running on a canister filter which has relatively high PO4 and NO3 and weak skimming. I've never seen them respond to iodide dosing.

Eric Borneman notes: "..I have not found iodine to play a role in the sucess of Xenia, nor is its need or uptake documented. I have found it to be detrimental to some, but not all, of my experiences with these coerals...."( Aquarium Corals pgs 152,153)
 
I don't run that much activated charcoal. about 1 cup that I change out every couple of months. I did add Brightwell Aquatics Neo Mag Magnesium Media to my calcium reactor in addition to my standard aragonite. Some people on boards mentioned that they did not like that product, although I don't know why.

Mostly dosing a bulk magnesium liquid, running aragonite in my calc reactor, the phosban in my reactor is old (maybe 7 mos).

I checked the calibration on my refractometer.

Lighting isn't the issue because the same corals that died in my display also died in my fuge which is in my basement.

It's just really concerning because i believe that all of my parameters are in line. I do have Kent's Essential elements, but have NOT been adding it to the tank. I use Instant Ocean Reef Crystals for my salt mix.

Has me puzzled??
Are you using RODI water
 
Half of coral dying

Half of coral dying

Half of one of my frogspawn coral has died while the other corals in the tank are doing very well any thoughts
 
This one goes back a while, almost three years.
At this point I don't even remember what caused my corals to bleach out. Yes I always use RO/DI water. Is it just your frogspawn that is affected? What are your tank parameters? Would need to know....
 
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