xenia may help more than others. i've even heard of people running it in their fuge as a form of nutrient export over macro algae.
however usually these things benefit from a multi-pronged approach.
the phosban reaction is certainly helpful when combating an algae outbreak. other things to consider:
1. duration of peak light cycle. typically you want your lights at full power for somewhere in the neighborhood of 4 - 6 hours. bookended by lower power settings if available. cutting down your max photo period will help deprive algae of some of the light it needs to grow, and most things i've seen about corals suggest that 4 - 6 hours peak light strength is plenty for them.
2. feeding. what are you feeding, and how much are you feeding being the specific things to look at. i like to rinse all my frozen food well in RODI water, to help flush away a lot of the tiny particles that get frozen with it during packaging, but that are too small for the fish to eat.
3. which bring me to water source. RODI water reading 0ppm is what you want before you mix your salt in with it.
4. flow. make sure you're getting enough movement in your tank to eliminate dead spots and keep detritus moving long enough to be removed.
5. removal of nasty. you don't say specifically, but are you using a sump/skimmer or any other kind of filtration? a strong skimmer is an invaluable tool. i also like to blow off my rocks and sand with a turkey baster when doing water changes, to get any junk that has settled out of reach of the flow pattern. getting it in to the water helps make it available for your skimmer or other filters to pull out.
6. manual removal. i usually like to get a small siphon hose, around 3/8" ID tipped with apiece of rigid airline tubing. i run the outlet through a filter sock, and in to the sump, so my return pump will bring the clean water right up. then i start siphoning and use a combination of long tweezer/tongs, razor blades, and scissors to remove algae from the rocks. making sure to go slowly and get all of it up the siphon hose so it gets caught in the filter sock. it is important when removing to make sure you're not letting it just float away, even tiny pieces of it, as this will just settle and form new colonies elsewhere.
7. lights out. you can also try a 2 - 3 day lights out period for your tank to try to help kill off some of the algae. make sure your tank isn't completely devoid of light, ambient room is fine, you don't want your fish unable to see for days.
8. room lighting. make sure you're not getting direct sunlight to your tank. i know this time of year with how my house is positioned, i tend to get a lot of morning and some early afternoon sunlight directly on my tank. this can help fuel algae outbreaks (the Kelvin temperature of sunlight is very amenable to algae growth) so i make sure i keep the blinds down during the first part of the day to limit any unwanted light from reaching my display.
as far as the TLF Phosban 150, i've used one of these on my 75, and am planning on hooking it up to the new system shortly. i liked it quite a bit when i had it running. i started out with half the recommended dose of media, then increased it slowly over time so i didn't strip too much out too fast.
