corals not opening

[Pyro22]

I have a 75 gal tank with 6 inches of sand.

I used to have 2 250 watt MH with 2 65 watt VHO actinics. I just recently switched over to T5's. I currently have 4 blub, 1 is a Giesemann day time, I have 2 ATI's and 1 actinic.

Ever since I switched over my green zoo's and leather aren't fully opening. I have a clam and a plate coral on the bottom that look fine. Is it the lighting? Do I need more bulbs?

also my calcium level is 410. I know a little low so I'm not sure if its the lighting if the calcium.

Thanks

 

[drummereef]

I don't think it's the calcium. 410 is fine. Have you checked the PAR difference between the two systems? Might take a little time for them to adjust to the new lights. All your other parameters are OK?

 

[Sugar Magnolia]

It could be the lighting, as mentioned. You might want to cut way back on the lighting, then add a little more each day until things are adjusted to the new lights. Another method is to get several layers of window screening and place that over the tank, removing a layer every day so the inhabs can adjust more slowly to the new lights.

 

[kel2682]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14829274#post14829274 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sugar Magnolia
It could be the lighting, as mentioned. You might want to cut way back on the lighting, then add a little more each day until things are adjusted to the new lights. Another method is to get several layers of window screening and place that over the tank, removing a layer every day so the inhabs can adjust more slowly to the new lights.

Cut back ??? I would think He needs more compared to what he was running no?? I could be wrong but how many watts are the new t5's I would imagine you would want to check all params
and post em just to be sure

 

[IslandCrow]

Cut back ??? I would think He needs more compared to what he was running no?? I

Depending on what MH setup he was running before and what T5 setup he's running now, the T5s may actually be higher PAR. If nothing else, a sudden shift in spectrum can be stressful on the corals as well. Using the window screen method that Adrienne suggested is probably the safest bet.

Pyro,
What was the kelvin rating on your MH bulbs. Also, what brand and model T5s are you running? Also, which ATIs are those. ATI is just the company. They make lights in many different spectrums. My guess is that it's the spectrum shift as opposed to a large increase in PAR, but some of the higher end T5s can certainly produce more PAR than a 250w MH.

 

[kel2682]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14829355#post14829355 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by IslandCrow
Depending on what MH setup he was running before and what T5 setup he's running now, the T5s may actually be higher PAR. If nothing else, a sudden shift in spectrum can be stressful on the corals as well. Using the window screen method that Adrienne suggested is probably the safest bet.

Pyro,
What was the kelvin rating on your MH bulbs. Also, what brand and model T5s are you running? Also, which ATIs are those. ATI is just the company. They make lights in many different spectrums. My guess is that it's the spectrum shift as opposed to a large increase in PAR, but some of the higher end T5s can certainly produce more PAR than a 250w MH.

I guess that makes sense I just thought for sure the wattage on the t5's would be lower but didnt really think of higher par, I would of thought th MH would be deeper penetrating than t5 esplain lucy cuz I dont think I get it

 

[Aquarist007]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14829355#post14829355 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by IslandCrow
Depending on what MH setup he was running before and what T5 setup he's running now, the T5s may actually be higher PAR. If nothing else, a sudden shift in spectrum can be stressful on the corals as well. Using the window screen method that Adrienne suggested is probably the safest bet.

Pyro,
What was the kelvin rating on your MH bulbs. Also, what brand and model T5s are you running? Also, which ATIs are those. ATI is just the company. They make lights in many different spectrums. My guess is that it's the spectrum shift as opposed to a large increase in PAR, but some of the higher end T5s can certainly produce more PAR than a 250w MH.

I agree 100 percent with Mike----the sudden shift in the spectrum is also important here.
IMO just reducing the photoperiod in half and gradually increasing it weekly will work.

 

[Pyro22]

I'm not sure what you mean by PAR.

My MH were 10K the midday Giesemann I'm using now is 6K. The ATI is a blue plus and Giesemann Pure Actinic.

Its 1 midday, 1 blue plus and 2 Pure Actinic.

 

[Pyro22]

Should I stay with that 4 bulb setup?

 

[kel2682]

Doesnt wattage mean anything or no ???? Not being wise but IM confused

 

[KarlBob]

It's convenient, but wattage is just not a very good way to measure light. Different types of lamp have different efficiencies at converting electricity into light. A 250 Watt metal halide system may consume as much electricity as 250 Watts worth of T5 bulbs, but it doesn't put out the same amount of light, the same spectrum of light, or even shine the light in the same pattern.

PAR stands for Photosynthetically Active Radiation. It's a term that comes to us from the people who grow terrestrial plants, and it measures the frequencies of light that plants use to drive photosynthesis. It's a way of measuring how much of the right spectrum of light is reaching the corals. Zooxanthellae in corals don't necessarily use the exact same frequencies of light as plants on land, but close enough. Wattage, on the other hand, just tells you how much electricity your bulbs consume.

 

[kel2682]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14830356#post14830356 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by KarlBob
It's convenient, but wattage is just not a very good way to measure light. Different types of lamp have different efficiencies at converting electricity into light. A 250 Watt metal halide system may consume as much electricity as 250 Watts worth of T5 bulbs, but it doesn't put out the same amount of light, the same spectrum of light, or even shine the light in the same pattern.

PAR stands for Photosynthetically Active Radiation. It's a term that comes to us from the people who grow terrestrial plants, and it measures the frequencies of light that plants use to drive photosynthesis. It's a way of measuring how much of the right spectrum of light is reaching the corals. Zooxanthellae in corals don't necessarily use the exact same frequencies of light as plants on land, but close enough. Wattage, on the other hand, just tells you how much electricity your bulbs consume.

Thank you sir for clearing that up for me

 

[Pyro22]

I've been running these lights for 2 months now, wouldn't the corals be adjusted by now?

 

[IslandCrow]

I've been running these lights for 2 months now, wouldn't the corals be adjusted by now?

If you didn't acclimate them correctly to the new lighting from the beginning, I believe you can still have issues two months later. I seem to remember having a similar issue for about as long when I switched from PCs to T5s. I'd still try reducing the photoperiod and see if that helps. From what you've described, the light sounds like the most likely culprit.

Anyway, based on 10K MHs you were using before, I wouldn't think you'd be getting significantly more light out of even a high end T5 setup (do you know the brand you have?), and probably less. That particular combination of T5 bulbs I'd guess would be about equivalent to a 14K or bluer MH as far as spectrum goes.

I'm actually kind of surprised your corals are having such a hard time adapting, but I've never made a switch from MH to fluorescents, and there very well may be characteristics of the different types of lighting that are also contributing to the problem.

 

[Pyro22]

I believe they are sunlight tek retro that I have. all 4 bulbs are 54 watts.

I switched over from the MH b/c I moved to a 2nd floor apt and the heat they generated made the apt really hot.

I have green ricordia's, a calm, a plate coral, yellow polyps, trumpet coral, and candy coral that all seem fine. Its just my toadstool leather and green zoos are aren't fully opening.

 

[Robamus]

I had some Corralifes in a crummy housing when I got my tank (used). I bought a new fixture, came with 12K Chinese bulbs instead of 10Ks and ever since, all has been poor looking. I suspect a similar issue.

 

[Pyro22]

Thanks for the advice. Today I dropped my lights down to 4 hours and will increase an hour a week. Hopefully it works.

Thanks again