correct way to QT new sps corals....

[The Saltman]

Hi guys,

I plan on having a dominated sps tank. However, I want to be carefull about any sps coral I put in my display because I don't want to deal with the problems like redbugs, worms, etc. What would be a proper QT setup and treatment for acro before putting it in the main display to ensure that it is bug/worm free.
I appreciate your response

 

[The Saltman]

bump

 

[bigt0706]

there are so many great old threads on this site and so many ways to go about it the most important part is to quarantine

 

[The Saltman]

I understand about the QT. But when I have the sps in the quarantine, what would be a proper setup and treatment to ensure they are healthy before going into the display?

 

[The Saltman]

bump

 

[taflaw]

You will want to set up a QT SPS tank with intense light and flow. I use a 30 g breeder w/ 400 watt MH (same as the display aquarium). I QT all new SPS for a few weeks (no exceptions).

All new corals are dipped in Iodine for about 15 minutes upon arrival, then they go into QT to make sure they are healthy (no flatworms, etc). I use Tropic Marin Pro-coral Cure for my iodine treatments. I also treat all Acropora corals w/ Interceptor to prevent red bugs from coming into my display. Interceptor treatment runs for 5 days with three 12 hour treatments.

 

[sfsuphysics]

Depends upon how anal you want to be. Those who's livelyhood revolves around their tanks not getting infected QT corals and treat them with a multitude of products from fluke tabs to interceptor.

Me personally I would dip in betadine or some other iodine based solution, see if anything falls off, and visually inspect, if nothing, then don't worry about treating the QT tank with broad range medications, your corals will like you better in the long run. If you see stuff fall off, then treat accordingly just to make sure.

Fluketabs for flatworms, interceptor for redbugs, unsure what to do for monti-eatting nudis though

 

[Serioussnaps]

Float and drip aclimate( i dont drip, but do acclimate to my water in a pitcher) Dip every incomer in a TMPCC/lugols dip for 12-30 minutes...blow off to make sure there are no flatworms. Then do an interceptor dip for 6 hours. You can find detailed instructions on the intercpetor dip on RC.

Inspect over a period of a month or 2 in QT. No signs of either? add to display

Montis I give a lugols dip just to make sure AEFW dont float in. I inspect for nudis(which are easy to spot on them). I would qt them if you want to be sure.


Also, you should dip and QT everything if you take this route. I got RB's cruising on a valida from not dipping a frickign blastomussa wellsi(though i dont know how it would react to these dips)

 

[MiddletonMark]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9456750#post9456750 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sfsuphysics
Me personally I would dip in betadine or some other iodine based solution, see if anything falls off, and visually inspect, if nothing, then don't worry about treating the QT tank with broad range medications, your corals will like you better in the long run. If you see stuff fall off, then treat accordingly just to make sure.

Me personally ... I prefer not to dip at all - just straight into QT.

I'd prefer to stress the coral less, kill off less of it's surface bacteria - and treat if required but not if unnecessary.

Inspection of the coral is a must regularly either way, and I often prefer to remove all substrate/plug/etc [non-coral] to eliminate hiding places or additional/algae hitchhikers.

As for my QT - it's just a 60g rubbermaid tub with heaters, a few powerheads, and a 175w MH setup. Stable, runs constantly ... and is a stable environment if I need to keep them in QT [or treat] for a longer-scale period.

IMO, it's essentially a very simple nano-type setup ... no tunzes, no skimmer [no fish or heavy feeding makes nutrient control through w/c a breeze] ... just light, good flow, and water.

Lots of opinions on this subject, lots of successful methods of QT.

 

[The Saltman]

So the main things I want to look for with sps are red bugs and flatworms? Also, I'm pretty new to sps quarantine procedures, can someone maybe come up with an old link on how to properly use interceptor and the flatworm treatments?

 

[twon8]

monti eating nudi's should be top of the list to be wary of

 

[The Saltman]

what would be a procedure for preventing these monti eating nudi's?

 

[MiddletonMark]

IMO, there is no good procedure/dip to get rid of them.

QT + very regular monitoring/inspection are probably the best bet ... and probably a couple month QT.

 

[taflaw]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9457633#post9457633 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by twon8
monti eating nudi's should be top of the list to be wary of

Agreed. These pests are very bad and the main reason why I now closely observe all incoming coral in QT first.

 

[taflaw]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9457651#post9457651 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Saltman
what would be a procedure for preventing these monti eating nudi's?

I sent you a PM with outside links on Monti nudis and red bug treatments....would post here but not sure if permitted.