Covering a 125G Stand
- Thread starter Sisterlimonpot
- Start date
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
For those of you that work with acrylic... my hats off to you. Acrylic must be my Achilles heel. I got some 3/8 scrap from phillipj2 and there was just enough to make a 2 gallon reservoir for the ATO. After about 4 hours I gave up I couldn't get it to be water tight I ended up having to silicone it on the insides. Next time I will take extra time to prep it to have straight edges. It's a learning process that's for sure!
It's not the prettiest but it will do the job!
It's not the prettiest but it will do the job!
Haddonisreef
New member
Nice work Jimmy I fill like I'm in a Bob Villa tank build! I also wish i had the wood shop you have!
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
Well we switched from cable to direct tv today so the installers were her running all new line for satellite. The bad thing was we couldn't get the internet and satellite changed over the same day so we had to stay with cable connection for internet until Monday. well the installers cut all existing lines to the house and along with the cable they disconnected the net. and we didn't realize it until just recently. Couldn't get a hold of anyone to come fix it so I went and bought some cheap coaxial connectors and figured out which ones to hook back up for internet. So got it in limp mode until Monday. 
I scuffed the inside where the silicone was going to create a nice mechanical tooth for the silicone to hold onto. But I will have to see about getting some more acrylic and try it again.
I was going to take some slivers of acrylic and melt them with some WO3 and inject it with a syringe and create a nice bead on the seams but I ended up taking the silicone route.
If you didn't make it look so easy... I wouldn't have had to silicone it
I scuffed the inside where the silicone was going to create a nice mechanical tooth for the silicone to hold onto. But I will have to see about getting some more acrylic and try it again.
well, my garage and equipment is open to anyone who wishes to try their hand at it. But if you cut a finger off I'm not liable
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
Well her it is all complete (except for a way to attach it to the stand.)
See how close it is to the top canopy... not quite but darn there close.. kudos to sherwin williams:
Look at that beautiful pain staken finish. It's so smooth my daughter tried to lean up against it and she fell over.
See how close it is to the top canopy... not quite but darn there close.. kudos to sherwin williams:
Look at that beautiful pain staken finish. It's so smooth my daughter tried to lean up against it and she fell over.
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
Thanks guys,
I tallied the total cost and hours for the project and here's how it lays out:
It took me a total 37 hours and it cost:
$24 for 4X8 sheet of oak ply
$32 for hinges, stain and polyurethane
$30 for roughly 17 BF of raw oak
--------------
Grand Total:
$86
of coarse I didn't factor in the cost of electricity, and the wear and tear of my plainer, jointer and saw blades but you get the picture.
Imagine what you would pay someone to do that for you.... It's the labor cost that gets you.
I tallied the total cost and hours for the project and here's how it lays out:
It took me a total 37 hours and it cost:
$24 for 4X8 sheet of oak ply
$32 for hinges, stain and polyurethane
$30 for roughly 17 BF of raw oak
--------------
Grand Total:
$86
of coarse I didn't factor in the cost of electricity, and the wear and tear of my plainer, jointer and saw blades but you get the picture.
Imagine what you would pay someone to do that for you.... It's the labor cost that gets you.
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
the dimensions are 5X17X6. roughly 2 gallons.
It 's a nice and clean cut. Did you do only one pass?<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15149200#post15149200 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sisterlimonpot
After all that was done I set the router up to start cutting a groove away on the inside of the door pieces:
what kind of router you use?
thanks.
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
shikhyung,
I wish I could've gotten away with only 1 pass... It would have cut a couple hours off the building of the doors
It was done in 4 passes with a Bosch 2 1/4 HP 12 amp router,
because of the large diameter of the router bit the RPM was turned to the lowest setting of 8000 to aviod chip out.
I wish I could've gotten away with only 1 pass... It would have cut a couple hours off the building of the doors
It was done in 4 passes with a Bosch 2 1/4 HP 12 amp router,
because of the large diameter of the router bit the RPM was turned to the lowest setting of 8000 to aviod chip out.
Rhodes19
New member
Thats how I am building my work shop!!!!<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15122359#post15122359 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sisterlimonpot
I have my wife to thank for that. it seems every birthday or christmas she gets me a new toy to play with, however it's 2 fold because she gets some nice furniture out of it
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
Alright I finally joined the ranks of people with ATO's. But now I have a question... I got the float switch for my DIY ATO and hooked it up yesterday. (It's working the way it should) but every3-5 minutes the float is turning the solenoid on and off. Is this ok or is it going to prematurely ruin my solenoid?
If so what should I do make it right?
The one thing I was thinking was….. that I can wire another float switch in series of the first one and offset it in the sump about an 1/8 to a ¼ of an inch so that there would be a minimum and maximum level making the solenoid not work so much..
Are the any other ways?
If so what should I do make it right?
The one thing I was thinking was….. that I can wire another float switch in series of the first one and offset it in the sump about an 1/8 to a ¼ of an inch so that there would be a minimum and maximum level making the solenoid not work so much..
Are the any other ways?
