CT 400 Build

Had a beer with a construction buddy of mine and talked fish tanks (ba$tard made me pick up the tab :lol:). The new tank wil be more than adequately supported in the middle and one end, but I'm a bit worried about the other end. Joists are 9" deep (not 9 1/2", curious), so his counsel was to sister/scab the beams that run parallel to the one end with either LVL or doubled up 3/4" plywood. New joist is a 12' span that sits on sills on both ends. Plus I can slip a jack post in the middle of one that won't be a eyesore.
 
Yes, one long cover for the skimmer box and three shorter ones for the external box. Lids are made of polycarbonate (at least I think that is what he said) so they won't warp.
 
So is this tank going to be rimless? Or is there going to be a hole knocked out of the bracing so you can clean the overflow?

I love the idea behind those small profile overflows, it's just the idea of maintaining them which makes me worry.
 
No, definitely eurobraced. I agree with you, so they are going to route a couple of openings in said eurobrace above the skimmer box. FWIW, Modular Marine now make their skimmer box removable.
 
Oh do they? I remember that was one feature of the "twice and expensive" brands, was the weir was magnetically attached and you could remove it, it still would be a pain to clean if you had a eurobrace that was of any sizable thickness (I had an 8" one on a 72x60" tank!). But the whole skim box is removable? I really need to consider that as an option for my ever changing and who knows when I'll get around to actually ordering it tank :D
 
Existing sump is an old Oceanic 150, so plenty big enough for the 400. Unfortunately all of the drain bulkheads on the sump are 1", not 1 1/2". So I've made an add in glass strip that will sit into the top tank rim and provide the necessary drains. Can also see two of the Apex FFM flow sensors - 2" for the main return and 1" for the siphon drain that will feed the refugium. Got a 100' roll of 1 1/2" ultraflex pvc in the garage, so I think I now have all the plumbing I am going to need. In fact, I think I have all of the equipment that I will need.

Now on to building the stand. Will also need to build a temporary stand that will match the height of the incoming truck bed. Won't need to be much as the tank will be empty.
 
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Well, I actually ordered mine prior to them making the change. I was offered the mod, but declined it for precisely the reason you note. I do think it's a good idea, but one would have to plan extra sump capacity I'd think.
 
Tested my MP40 on a 1" thick piece of wood and I think it will work. Transfers torque with no problems and seems to stick well enough. I'll support the dry side with a bracket of some kind. Probably won't be able to run modes like pulse though. Wonder if I can run it without the gasket?
 
wow that's certainly a shocker, although I wonder if the viscosity of water instead of air on the propeller might give different results. Maybe try with a small rectangular tank (or hell a rectangular pitcher full of water), then enough wood to bring it to 1" thick.

Also wonder if the makeup of glass/acrylic might damp magnetic fields different than wood?

Sorry, I'm not trying to say it'll fail or anything, just thinking outload about possibilities. Plus I've had issues on 1/2" thick glass with MP40s, but these were much older versions... and well a lot of me hating Ecotech for the magnet issues I've had and them telling me to fork over another $50 for a magnet every couple years
 
Mike, all good points. I'm going to check it in a 10 gallon this weekend with the thickness built up to 1" with some scrap acrylic that I have laying around. One thing I have been toying with is asking the tank maker to 'thin' the 1" rear down to 3/4" in two circular spots to accommodate the dry side. Cannot imagine this would affect the structural stability (particularly since they normally build this tank with 3/4" anyhow - I just asked them to use 1").
 
So in discussions with the tank builder, I'm going to have them route a 1/4" deep circle on the outside of the back panel where the two MP40s are going to go. It will mean I cannot subsequently move them, but that's ok. The 1/4" ledge will also provide support for the dry side.
 
ca1ore said:
So in discussions with the tank builder, I'm going to have them route a 1/4" deep circle on the outside of the back panel where the two MP40s are going to go. It will mean I cannot subsequently move them, but that's ok. The 1/4" ledge will also provide support for the dry side.
Click to expand...

probably a good decision on that. And yeah it won't affect the structural integrity any more so than drilling a couple holes would.

The downside, is like you said, I hope you like them there :D
 
ca1ore said:
So in discussions with the tank builder, I'm going to have them route a 1/4" deep circle on the outside of the back panel where the two MP40s are going to go. It will mean I cannot subsequently move them, but that's ok. The 1/4" ledge will also provide support for the dry side.
Click to expand...



I've seen this done before without any issue. Just make sure they account for the power cord out the top. I think 1/4" will clear without any kind of notch but maybe they can fit one before they ship just to be sure.

Just coming across this thread now. Glad to see you're moving forward with this! I'm happy to lend a set of hands if I'm available for D-day. I'll be following along
 
scar79 said:
I've seen this done before without any issue. Just make sure they account for the power cord out the top. I think 1/4" will clear without any kind of notch but maybe they can fit one before they ship just to be sure.

Just coming across this thread now. Glad to see you're moving forward with this! I'm happy to lend a set of hands if I'm available for D-day. I'll be following along
Click to expand...

Oooooh, that's a good point - the cord is set back from the drive face a bit, but not 1/4". I think if I have them do the recess at 3 1/2" there'll be enough room to route it properly. They're sending me a CAD of the tank in the next couple of weeks, so nothing set in stone (or in this case, acrylic, yuk yuk). Good catch though, thanks.

Tank is due to ship out around July 10, so my plan is to get it into the garage on a knock down stand initially so I can dry fit all the new plumbing. Then sometime towards September, when it gets cooler, do the swap over. Got to get the 265 out (at 400 lbs. empty) before the new tank goes in - all in the same day. Asked the builder how heavy the 400 would be and he said nominally about 500 lbs. Thought it would have been less, but what's a few hundred pounds :lol:
 
I think what I will do is to see once I get the tank, and if necessary I can route a small groove for the wire grommet with my dremel.
 
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