Custom Overflows on stock Marineland Deep Dimension Tanks

[scurvyratster]

I'm ready to take the plunge into the big leagues and really like the form factor of the Marineland Deep Dimension tanks. What I'm not so hot on is the overflows. I'm planning on a peninsula style tank and have looked into doing a custom tank. Unfortunately, there is some issue with my LFS and the regional wholesaler and Marineland -- I haven't been able to get a quote for 7 months of trying.....

I can buy a stock 300DD, but am curious if anyone has removed the overflows from a stock tank and built their own.

Thanks,

ScurvyRat

 

[Maivortex]

Im in the exact same boat. Seems to me If I can get Marineland tp drill the holes where I want them or just get a 300 DD with no overflows and drill myself I would be happy. I have been meaning to call Marineland but have been busy. Have u spoke to marineland about this?

 

[scurvyratster]

Im in the exact same boat. Seems to me If I can get Marineland tp drill the holes where I want them or just get a 300 DD with no overflows and drill myself I would be happy. I have been meaning to call Marineland but have been busy. Have u spoke to marineland about this?

I got a quote for a 300DD without any holes and it was a bit more than a stock tank, I guess for dealing with it as a special order.

After about 3 months I did get a quote but it wasn't for what I asked for. I got another quote in early December, but without a description of what the tank was, just a price. Since it wasn't right the first time, I wanted verification, but its been another month without any information.

Just frustrated at this point and want to get going.

 

[Maivortex]

Any updates on this?

 

[scurvyratster]

My LFS has given up. I think I'm going to order the standard 300DD. I'll tear out the overflows and probably bulkhead and cap the holes in the bottom. I'm planning on doing a peninsula tank so will do a coast-to-coast overflow a la beananimal.

Too bad the custom deal isn't going to work -- seems lots of guys have gotten them done by Marineland. It could just be the local wholesaler doesn't have a good relationship with them.

Getting the standard tank is still far and away the lowest cost option.

7 months and no proper quote is just too long.

 

[Maivortex]

Ive considered doing this also. Im worried about the seal of the tank when pullling out the overflows. Seems like a real shame to butcher a brand new tank. LFS around here are not much help.

 

[p9934s]

Removing Overflows from DD 300G with Corner Overflows

Removing Overflows from DD 300G with Corner Overflows

FYI - Just removed left and right overflows from my new Marineland DD 300G and it turned out to be an extremely simple and clean process and in my opinion poses no threat to the aquarium seals. It is as simple as running a sharp utility blade down the length of the overflow on each side and breaking what seems to be a very thin silicone seal. After that, simply rocking the overflow forward the breaks the bottom seal. I was very careful not to remove any silicone that intersected with the aquarium seams. I cleaned up to silicone left on the glass with a sharp razor blade and some solvent.

The DD overflows are not in very tight at all. I did the same thing with a Solana 24G and it was much more difficult.

Total time start to finish about 1.5 hours. Let me know if you need more details/pictures etc.

 

[Spirofucci]

You may have already, but check out this guys thread, incredible build and just what you're looking for:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1762906

 

[prop-frags]

We were one of those who has recently gotten a custom 300DD.
You have to remember that Marineland is in the business of mass production of stock tanks...they are NOT custom tank builders, and it is painfully evident in getting custom orders through their gauntlet, er, I mean order process. Most of the troubles are in the mechanism of going through a local dealer, then through a distributor, then to the factory. Marineland acknowledged to us that this chain is sub-optimal when it comes to getting anything custom.

Again, remember what their core business is. If you can persist through the custom order process (and you must be a very vigilant and demanding customer), you can get a well-made product. It won't be quick...at least ours sure wasn't. This was due to many breakdowns and miscommunications within that long chain. However, once all done, we're happy with the outcome. Our center-mounted overflow for example is extremely well-made and professionally finished...they did an excellent job. Ditto for the bottom eurobracing.

As for the thread that Spirofucci linked above...every DD owner should read it. TeeSquare is a great builder, a great thinker, and a pretty cool guy. He worked very closely with Marineland to get that extensively modified tank, and he kept his full factory warranty! He has helped us a great deal through our first build, our split-seam ordeal, and the re-birth of our new custom DD.

 

[scurvyratster]

Plugging the holes

Plugging the holes

@p9934s:

I just got my stock 300DD tank on Friday. Thank for posting the pictures. I'm going to remove mine in the next week or so.

How did you cover the existing holes in the base? Or are you using them for a closed loop or returns?

I am thinking of just getting some 1/2" plexi about 12" sq. and using silicon to glue it to the base. Do you think that might work?

I don't plan on ever using them and don't want any possible leaks with bulkheads at the bottom of the tank.

Thanks again,

Scurvy

 

[EddieJ]

I would not use plexi and try to silicone that to glass.. lot's of room for failure. Myself I would feel much more comfortable with a good quality bulkhead with a slip connection to glue a PVC nipple and cap. A properly installed bulkhead is not going to leak. JMO

 

[scurvyratster]

How about a 1/2" glass sheet instead of the plexi?

I cannot see ever using the holes (of course, never say never), but the pressure of the water on the bulkheads should be relatively high. I wouldn't want the tank to drain through one of the holes....

The standard overflows are just thin plastic siliconed to the side of the tank. I assume by sectioning off the overflows in that way, the pressure on the bulkheads are less. Of course, others have done closed loops through the bottom on these tanks and don't seem to have problems.

 

[Capt_Cully]

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1976143&page=4

start at the begining or scroll down on page 4 to the pix.

I was in the same boat. Here's a link to my tank. Got it from the factory 200 DD without the factory corner overflows. Had an acrylic box made and incorporated a Beananimal overflow. www.beananimal.com go to silent overflow link.

 

[Capt_Cully]

Sorry, here ya go

http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx

 

[scurvyratster]

Thanks for the link to your build. It is great to see photos of someone drilling the side of a DD. My glass hole bits are in the mail. I should get them this week or early next.

I also plan on doing a beananimal system, but with a full coast-to-coast overflow off of one of the short ends (36") since this is going to be a peninsula system (another reason to tear out the stock overflows).

 

[EddieJ]

How about a 1/2" glass sheet instead of the plexi?

I cannot see ever using the holes (of course, never say never), but the pressure of the water on the bulkheads should be relatively high. I wouldn't want the tank to drain through one of the holes....

The standard overflows are just thin plastic siliconed to the side of the tank. I assume by sectioning off the overflows in that way, the pressure on the bulkheads are less. Of course, others have done closed loops through the bottom on these tanks and don't seem to have problems.

If you are going that route definitely use glass and not acrylic. You would have to make sure it is sealed 100 percent. I just feel better with a bulkhead and the pressure applied to the gasket by the nut on the other side.

 

[Capt_Cully]

Oh man, my local vendor/LFS got me one undrilled. I don't think it was any more expensive, but I don't think it was any cheaper to have it pulled off the production line before it got drilled and had overflows mounted. It did take some time to get it. I mean like 6 weeks, but my LFS stayed on it and came through.

FWIW, I didn't get Starphire either. I think it's unnecessary, but that's a whole nother discussion.

Thanks for the link to your build. It is great to see photos of someone drilling the side of a DD. My glass hole bits are in the mail. I should get them this week or early next.

I also plan on doing a beananimal system, but with a full coast-to-coast overflow off of one of the short ends (36") since this is going to be a peninsula system (another reason to tear out the stock overflows).

It took me 35-40 minutes to drill each hole. With each one, my anxiety went up exponentially. But we got er done! Good luck with it. DON'T RUSH!

 

[scurvyratster]

In your photos, it looked like you drilled the holes horizontally into the side and that you drilled them dry. I was trying to figure out if I could stand the tank on its end and drill vertically down using a drill guide and a water filled putty ring to cool the drill.

Did the drill/glass get really hot?

 

[smoyer]

Quote "I could stand the tank on its end and drill vertically down using a drill guide and a water filled putty ring to cool the drill"

This how most people I know do it

 

[Capt_Cully]

Yeah, I would recommend doing it that way. I did do it with the tank in it normal orientation, BUT I used plumbers putty to create a reservoir for water to keep the drill wet and cool.

I still think its going to take you a while. Its the one step you don't wanna rush. I didn't have the luxury of being able to tip my tank up. I used all my favors just getting guys to help me carry the tank into the house. No one was coming back to take It off the stand, flip it, drill it, and put it back. I was stuck!