Cyano issue-need advice?

D

Dundermifflin

New member
Have a FOWLR and got a second outbreak of what appears to be Cyano algae. It seems to come off easily with a scrub brush. To avoid in future I took the suggestion of some posts and will be adding 2 circulation pumps (Hydor Koralia 3rd gen 1950's). Tank is 48" wide. Is this enough circulations or should I go with the larger model? The LFS suggested it could be a PH issue as well. I've never monitored PH before. Could this be part of it and should I monitor and dose PH as needed?
 
Since you're doing a FOWLR those pumps will likely be too much flow, I would rather get 4 smaller ones which will give you more options to get best flow coverage. 4 800's would be my choice. One on either end facing each other and two on the back glass facing forward, run them and adjust from there. So you can get 4 for the price of one of the Korilla's and its free shipping

I recently bought on Ebay SunSun powerheads 800's for $7 each and they rock. There is a thread on them around here somewhere. They are very powerful and very quiet. I've got a Korilla 750 that is nowhere near as powerful as these. Plus you can't beat the price. So do a search on them, and think about running 4 ph's instead of the two. You don't need a ton of flow with a FOWLR tank.
 
Thanks for the tip. I'll look into the SunSun powerheads. Does anyone know if I should be monitoring and dosing PH as well to help with the issue? (120g FOWLR).
 
I don't even check PH anymore neither do most reefers that have been at this a while. It's for the most part a non issue. What makes you think you have a PH problem? As long as you maintain Alk your PH should be fine. What kind of cover do you have on your tank and do you run a skimmer? Are your powerheads pointing at the surface of the tank?
 
What size is the tank? I see 48" wide but that doesn't tell us much. Skip the sun sun pumps and get something you wont be throwing in the trash in a month.
 
LOL whosurcaddie, you obviously don't know what you're talking about on the Sunsun pumps. So until you do might be best not to knock something you know absolutely nothing about.

I also want to add to Dundermifflin Cyano has a cycle that it will have to run it's course before it dies out. All you can do is remove it weekly and do a weekly 10% wc. It will leave as fast as it started once its cycle is done
 
Dkuhlmann said:
I don't even check PH anymore neither do most reefers that have been at this a while. It's for the most part a non issue. What makes you think you have a PH problem? As long as you maintain Alk your PH should be fine. What kind of cover do you have on your tank and do you run a skimmer? Are your powerheads pointing at the surface of the tank?
Click to expand...

The tank is 120G. The LFS suggested it being a PH issue as well. I've never checked PH before so this is why I'm checking here. The two inlets at the top are pointing down, but it's obviously not pusging water to the bottom. I was going to install these new Koralia 3rd gen 1950's on each side of the tank. One towards the bottom and one towards the middle pointing at each other. When I hooked up the first one I put my hand in there and althogh very quiet it didn't seem to have much power so I was thinking it wouldn't be strong enough so I didn't unbox the second one.
 
Dkuhlmann said:
I don't even check PH anymore neither do most reefers that have been at this a while. It's for the most part a non issue. What makes you think you have a PH problem? As long as you maintain Alk your PH should be fine. What kind of cover do you have on your tank and do you run a skimmer? Are your powerheads pointing at the surface of the tank?
Click to expand...

The tank is 120G. The LFS suggested it being a PH issue as well. I've never checked PH before so this is why I'm checking here. The two inlets at the top are pointing down, but it's obviously not pushing water to the bottom. Is it better to have those two inlets pointing straight across the top? I was going to install these two new Koralia 3rd gen 1950's on each side of the tank. One towards the bottom and one towards the middle pointing at each other. When I hooked up the first one I put my hand in there and althogh very quiet it didn't seem to have much power so I was thinking it wouldn't be strong enough so I didn't unbox the second one.
 
Dkuhlmann said:
LOL whosurcaddie, you obviously don't know what you're talking about on the Sunsun pumps. So until you do might be best not to knock something you know absolutely nothing about.

I also want to add to Dundermifflin Cyano has a cycle that it will have to run it's course before it dies out. All you can do is remove it weekly and do a weekly 10% wc. It will leave as fast as it started once its cycle is done
Click to expand...

Really? I do know about them and they are pieces of junk. You don't know anything about me or my experience with Sunsun. Sunsun is a cheap Chinese manufacturer that uses the lowest quality parts in everything they make. You seriously think a pump costing 7 dollars is going to have the engineering that a Vortech, Tunze or even a Jabeo for that matter.

Anyone actually recommending these pumps has no idea what there talking about, and should most likely stop giving advice altogether.
 
Again, you show your brilliant abilities of not understanding it. Some people and actually many people have to cut corners somewhere but not sacrifice function. These cheap Chinese powerheads have a place and a purpose.

Not everyone can go out and buy the $80 per pump that others can, doesn't matter the reason and it doesn't mean they shouldn't be in the hobby. And its not up to you (no I don't know you and frankly don't want to, I do know many with an attitude like yours, which you've proven with your post above) or others like you to decide the my way or the highway mantra.

Chinese products are not the top quality of others, no doubt about that. What they do offer is like I said have their place and purpose. This said is nothing about the engineering that goes into these products at all. All they are doing is filling a niche market and they do it for a very low cost. I mean come on $7 for a pump delivered would mean they're selling them for $3 each and in some way making a profit.

I never in any way shape or form compared them to the more expensive and superior quality of Tunze, I said they are a workable product that serves a function rather cheaply.

Now as far as "Anyone actually recommending these pumps has no idea what there (sic) talking about, and should most likely stop giving advice altogether" shows your ignorance and actually calling the kettle black with the comment you made "You don't know anything about me" you're right and you don't know anything about me or my experience in reefing or anything else for that matter.

Have a Great Day!
 
OP already stated he was looking at a pump that was 80$ and you try to get him to buy some cheap junk. I know that you recommend crap pumps that will die in months to everyone who asks for a powerhead. Which will inevitably lead to frustration and the need to spend more money.

Seriously if you cant afford an 80$ pump this most likely isn't the hobby for you. I'm sorry if that's rude but its the truth. If you cant afford more than a 7 dollar pump then you aren't going to be able to meet the requirements needed to run a successful aquarium and keep healthy inhabitants.

By the way I love Chinese products. I use a lot of them in my tank LED's, Jabeo powerheads, Jabeo return pump. The difference is the quality in the manufacturing. You cut corners by getting a Jabeo not a Sunsun.
 
I've got a couple sunsuns that are still in service after a year.
I think it's pretty ignorant when people say that if you can't afford an $80 powerhead you don't belong in the hobby. The bells and whistles are nice for some but hardly a necessity. They both push water, duh.

This thread has gone off the deep end, I'm reporting it.
 
Seriously, what is wrong with people having a simple conversation and agreeing to disagree instead of insisting on being right or insulting the other. Jeesh.
 
Dundermifflin said:
The tank is 120G. The LFS suggested it being a PH issue as well. I've never checked PH before so this is why I'm checking here. The two inlets at the top are pointing down, but it's obviously not pushing water to the bottom. Is it better to have those two inlets pointing straight across the top?
Click to expand...

LFS advice can be really good or really bad (although usually well intentioned). One can be in the hobby for a long time and still learn new things every day.

...and like all hobbies, opinions and schools of thought can run strong.

In my experience, when the calcium and alkalinity are maintained, the pH seems to take care of itself. So while it may be accurate, it's probably not the "culprit."

Part of the magic of good flow is that it is more difficult for the bad stuff to settle in and take root.

The returns (or the inlets) can give some flow, but it's not really their job. I tend to set returns going close to straight across, but not really enough to ripple the water to a point where micro drops can be splashed into the air and cause salt creep along the top and on the lights.

Hope this helps!
 
And then on to some other issues that might be contributing to a cyano outbreak....
What type of lighting are you running? Is it perhaps time to change bulbs?
what about CUC, do you have enough of that?
Just throwing out some thoughts...
 
I just went through a bad cyano battle. Cyan feeds off over nutrified water. Over feeding? My issue was I needed to replace my filter floss in the sump, it was filthy. And I had about 40 lbs of live rock in the sump. Detritus and what have you were getting traded under it. I cleaned the sump thereby removing extra nutrients and did a four day blackout on my tank. I am a fowlr tank so corals were not a concern. Four days of blackness will not harm the fish but will rid you of cyano as it is a photosynthetic bacteria that needs light to survive. I too increased flow prior to blackout but it did not help, even with great flow cyano will still be there. The red slime has a hard time in the flow but the red slime is a waste product of the invisible bacteria.
 
I have read a lot on cyano. The root causes are usually over feeding (too much nutrients) and t5 lights ending their life cycle. As t5 lights age they produce a more red spectrum and cyano loves this spectrum. And of course lack of consistent cleaning schedule.
 
BrickFishHouse said:
LFS advice can be really good or really bad (although usually well intentioned). One can be in the hobby for a long time and still learn new things every day.

...and like all hobbies, opinions and schools of thought can run strong.

In my experience, when the calcium and alkalinity are maintained, the pH seems to take care of itself. So while it may be accurate, it's probably not the "culprit."

Part of the magic of good flow is that it is more difficult for the bad stuff to settle in and take root.

The returns (or the inlets) can give some flow, but it's not really their job. I tend to set returns going close to straight across, but not really enough to ripple the water to a point where micro drops can be splashed into the air and cause salt creep along the top and on the lights.

Hope this helps!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feed back. To answer other's questions-I just use an LED shop light from Costco (FOWLR). Maybe that's a problem. Wasn't sure how involved I need to get with lighting for a FOWLR, but please let me know. No CUC, but open to suggestions?

Also, am I good with the two Hydor Koralia 3rd generation 1950 circulation pumps or should I get more powerful or should I get wave makers?

Thanks.
 
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