Cyano problem - 0 nitrate & 0 phosphate??

[jcr6479]

I currently have a cyano problem; however, my nitrate and phosphate readings readings are 0. I know that cyano is photosynthetic but can it really thrive withhout nutrients? I have it on my sand but not on my rocks.

Here are my tank specs:

30 gallon long sps tank
10 gallon sump w/ chaeto
mag 12 on four returns
175 watt halide/130 compact retro
Coralife super skimmer
turbo twist uv
Coralife 1/10 hp chiller

ph - 8.2
nitrate - 0
phosphate - 0
calcium - 430
alk - 10 dkh
sg - 1.023
temp - 78.0 - 78.8

 

[dixonba]

You're testing zero because the cyano is using it up. If you eliminated the cyano, you would start seeing 'ates.

 

[jcr6479]

A little history on my tank. I set it up in January 2006. I started to notice the cyano about 2 months ago so I tested my nitrates and they were through the roof despite doing 10% water changes monthly. I then decided to get a refugium so I bought some chaeto and put it in the sump w/ a 5100k compact f flood lamp. At that time, my nitrates were about 30 ppm. Since adding the Macro, they have gone to 0. Will the Macro eventually win the battle over the cyano? What are my other alternatives?

 

[dixonba]

You are on the right track with the nutrient export.

If you read up on cyano you will see people say:
-Its part of a tanks maturation process
-You have a nutrient problem
-You dont have enough flow in that area
-Your top-off and/or water change water is not RO/DI
-Your bulbs are going bad
-Dose with antibiotics like strep throat

Its really hard telling what causes it.

I guess questions that arise are:
-Are you using RO/DI water?
-Is the cyano spreading?
-How fast is is spreading?
-Is it in an area of low flow?
-How old are your bulbs?

I would siphon the red matts out with rigid airline tubing (careful to not spread it everywhere) and keep up with water changes. I'm pretty sure you can kick it with that. If you are using RO/DI, have the TDS tested (filters are bad?).

 

[jcr6479]

I use RO/DI

It is spreading over the sand

Bulbs are about 5 months old

It is in an area of relatively low flow. I have 2 brains on the sand so I try not to direct too much flow in that area. I may have to take them out and blast the cyano.

Thanks for the input.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I would first try to reduce cyano by exporting nutrients, especially phosphate and organics.

 

[jcr6479]

I just noticed that the coralife compact bulbs I purchased a few months ago are 55 watts and not 65. I have a 65 watt coralife ballast. Could this cause premature aging of the bulb thereby altering the spectrum and fueling my cyano problem?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I do not know, but I'd personally focus on nutrients first.

 

[jcr6479]

I currently have a chaeto refugium and a protein skimmer. I am also on the verge of starving my fish. Do you know of anything else I can do to address my nutrient problem?

 

[jcr6479]

I also recently added a polyfilter and also purigen (after the skimmer).

 

[TwistedTiger]

Have you tried a GFO to remove phosphate?

 

[jcr6479]

I used to run phosguard until I added the Chaeto. Is phosguard (by Seachem) a GFO? If so, I will add it again.

 

[TwistedTiger]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8185895#post8185895 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jcr6479
I used to run phosguard until I added the Chaeto. Is phosguard (by Seachem) a GFO? If so, I will add it again.

No Phosban, Rowaphas and PhOSaR are. GFO = granular ferrous oxide.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/sept2002/chem.htm

 

[Horace]

Nutrients, nutrients, nutrients .

 

[DrBDC]

On the 55/65w issue. The bulbs are the same. It just runs them at the wattage determined by the ballast. No difference in bulbs and many will say both on the package but even if they don't it's the same.

 

[oldsaltman]

This is the product that my LFS carries:

Kent Marine Phosphate Sponge Filter Media

Is it acceptable for this purpose?

Is it considered a GFO?

 

[andrew.flavell]

I thought id just had the same problem. But thanks to a little further investigation and help from randy.Ive got to the bottom of it. Question your test kit!!
Ive just found out that my one week old jbl nitrate test kit is useless. After a forty gallon water change, my test kit remained at between 1-5ppm and always has. yet using a saliphert kit at my LFS and a nutrafin one ive just purchased it showed nitrates at 100 ppm.So god knows what they were at!! Still caused my achilles white spot god rest his fins.
Cheers randy for the help.

 

[kimoyo]

If low nutrients can solve a cyano issue and cyano is a bacteria, why do other bacteria grow in low nutrient tanks?

 

[DrBDC]

Many of the good bacteria probably increase in high nutrient tanks as well. Just my guess.

 

[rigleautomotive]

i run into this almost every time i set up a new reef like yours.add lots of red leg mexican hermits and aster snails and sand snails i think nassurus is the type.they export nutrients by eating everything and fecal pellets removed via protien skimming ect.it is old school and it works everytime for me