cyano

H

hawkfish21

New member
Lately, I have been having a small problem with Cyano in my 135. This started since I switched from Kent to IO. I have now switched back to Kent & have done two 40 gallon water changes in my 135. I have also switched all the filters in my RO/DI, with the exception of the membrane (less than a year old). The algae is still coming back. No Phosphates or Nitrates and I run a refugium. Anyone have any other suggestions? Should I do some more large water changes? Could my light bulbs be bad? They are 9 month old T5's. The weird thing is that I had the same problem exactly a year ago Thanks.
 
Try adding more flow. Blow off the the cyanno every night and keep up on the water changes. Also, you turn you lights off for a few days, but this is a temporary solution. Do a water change. Cut your feeding down to once a day or every other day. Oh and do a water change. ; ) Good luck, Im still fighting mine, but I am winning!
 
That was an interesting edit.

If you are overdriving your lamps on Ice Cap ballasts and not using fans they are pretty much hammered. I am not sure if they will cause a cyano outbreak but anything is possible. If that is the case grab new lamps and a couple fans to blow across the lamps and see what happens. If the lamps are the cause you will know it pretty fast. I would do some water changes to get the nutients down.
 
What kind of fans should I use? I have already done two 40 gallon water changes & will do another one tonight. How many more will it take?
 
Any fans you can find that will fit in the canopy will work. I ran Ice Caps on mine but I know Freddie40 runs clip on home depot specials for his and they do fine.

I was testing a T5 fixture yesterday that is designed to have fans running to keep the heat down. With the fans running I got a PAR reading of around 155. I shut the fans off and the output dropped down to the low 80's. Real important not to let the lamps overheat.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7915030#post7915030 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gsxrguru2
I use large computer fans that I bought from Radio Shack
Click to expand...

How do you wire these or do they plug in?
 
I just installed dual 30 CFM d/c fans under my hood for the metal halides and they're working great. They are adjustable 3-speed fans and the max dB rating is 30. I spent a total of $30 for 2 fans, a DC 12V power converter (Walgreens - $8.95) and some hookup wire (Radio Shack - $4.00).

After I cut the computer power plugs off both fans, I spliced and wired them using the hookup wire to the DC power converter (no need for an elaborate power supply, a 1000mA converter will handle quite a bit). I put both fans running off the same converter.

Once you've gone through plenty of electrical tape or wire nuts splicing these together, I simply mounted mine using fuzzy washers (you could also use rubber) and some simple wood screws. I put my ear up to them and I can't even here them run.

Some tips would include mounting these using some cheap fan guards (98 cents) from CompUSA (also where I bougt the fans, $9.95 a peice). This will prevent fish from jumping into the fan (if directly under the hood) and will also prevent the fan blades from rubbing under stress depending on where you mount them.

P1010002.JPG


You can also find the larger versions of these fans often at the same price. CompUSA also had some 'SmartCool' fans in 80mm, 92mm, and up that auto adjust depending on the temp. They work the same as IceCaps, only you'd have to wire them similar to above and they're only $14.95 as opposed to spending $50 a fan.
 
Steve, both fans currently are acting as exhausts. They draw the hot air inside the hood and push it out through the back of the hood rather than having fans blow across the halides.

I plan on adding 2 more fans in a few weeks or so towards the outside that will push air into the hood and increase the heat draw from these 2.

Somehow, sitting on my living room floor with a Dewalt and an 80mm self driving bore (knowing I suck with wood-work) and drilling 3 1/8" holes in my hood didn't seem like a good idea anymore.
 
They draw the hot air inside the hood and push it out through the back
Click to expand...

Be careful with that. What you are doing is drawing humid, salty air right across the bearings of those fans. Better to aim them in and let the exhaust find a passive way out of the hood.
 
Well, as embarassed as I am, awake now at the 3:00 AM hour, I feel I owe an apology on my eagerness to contribute to this online community for the following reason:

My statement earlier that these wonderful $10 fans were quiet, was true at the time, since I had not yet installed a sponge in my overflow. Of course with 150 dB of slurping, splashing, and sloshing going on, who would hear a small fan running? Now that I've placed a muffler sponge on my overflow late last night, I was kept awake by the droning coming from the tank, all the way across the house. I guess you get what you pay for in this respect. So if noise is a concern, I would suggest against the $10 CPU fans, however the 12V DC wiring suggestion should still apply, you don't need a $60-$90 PC power supply to run the fans.

Sorry again, I'll be sure to practice more responsible posting in the future.

Chad
 
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