Cyano?
- Thread starter BrianOKC
- Start date
papagimp
COMAS Rocks!
get some Chemi-clean (wet pets in norman carries it, so does aquarium concepts, jossettes, and a few other LFS here on OKC)
and follow instruction on the box. Will get rid of cyno quickly. But you'll still need to find the reason for the cyno in the first place. Check nitrate and phosphate levels to start.
and follow instruction on the box. Will get rid of cyno quickly. But you'll still need to find the reason for the cyno in the first place. Check nitrate and phosphate levels to start.
zoomfish1
New member
Lots of schools of thought on this one. If you want a quick cure, then chemi-clean. Boos heard from the naturalists.
Let it run its course and when the tank gets used to the amount of nutrients introduced, it will clear up.
Massive clean up crew introduced with massive die off when it goes away.
And, on and on. Seems like the logical thing is to get rid of what it feeds on and it will die off. In a newer tank like yours (?) one can expect an outbreak of cyano at some point. Just a fact of life.
Pick your poison and good luck.
Let it run its course and when the tank gets used to the amount of nutrients introduced, it will clear up.
Massive clean up crew introduced with massive die off when it goes away.
And, on and on. Seems like the logical thing is to get rid of what it feeds on and it will die off. In a newer tank like yours (?) one can expect an outbreak of cyano at some point. Just a fact of life.
Pick your poison and good luck.
Travis L. Stevens
New member
As it's already been said. Chemically, you can get rid of the stuff over night with Chemi-Clean, but if you can't control your nutrients, than it will come back stronger and more resilient to Chemi-Clean than before.
If you really want to make sure to get rid of it, just let it grow. It will eventually use its nutrients and die away as long as you don't keep feeding it. So, keep good practices on water changes, watch your bioload, watch how much you feed, and be patient. It will take up to a few months to get rid of it. On a good note, high flow helps deter the Cyanobacteria from settling down and growing in mats. FWIW, Cyanobacteria doesn't typically do any direct harm, so as long as you can keep it from growing on anything that needs light, it won't hurt anything.
If you really want to make sure to get rid of it, just let it grow. It will eventually use its nutrients and die away as long as you don't keep feeding it. So, keep good practices on water changes, watch your bioload, watch how much you feed, and be patient. It will take up to a few months to get rid of it. On a good note, high flow helps deter the Cyanobacteria from settling down and growing in mats. FWIW, Cyanobacteria doesn't typically do any direct harm, so as long as you can keep it from growing on anything that needs light, it won't hurt anything.
Travis L. Stevens
New member
smurray, there are no fish in the aquarium trade that actively choose to eat Cyanobacteria. Occassionally, you might get a fish that prefers it over other food, but most turn their nose up at it. For example, you could choose 100 Yellow Tangs, and you'll be lucky to get one to eat it. Fighting and Queen Conchs are said to help get rid of it off the sand, but whether they are actively eating it, or just keeping the sand stirred enough so it doesn't grow on it is still up in the air. Plus, these conchs will often outgrow a tank.
Nods, I have heard of the fighting conchs doing a good job. But as far as my Tang... *shrug* She liked them. She always had something in the tank that I was giving her, but she still picked at the rock. Well, maybe she wasn't eating it, but stirring it around enough so that it seemed like she was! =D
captbunzo
Premium Member
I recommend more of the "naturalists" approach.....let it run it's course. MORE IMPORTANTLY would be a discussion about your tank setup as this can often be the real problem.....
1. What sort of water flow do you have? Inadequate (low quantity and/or non-diffuse) flow can often be a contributor to cyano problems.
2. What sort of nutrient export methods are you using? Options include protein skimming, growth of macroalgae (chaeto is best), NNR (natural nitrate reduction) via a Deep Sand Bed or Remote DSB.
3. What sort of lighting are you using?
4. What other filtration do you have in place? This includes live rock, power filters, etc.
5. Are you utilizing any chemical filtration methods? This includes Carbon, phosphate removers (go for GFO phosphate removers, avoid Aluminum based such as PhosGuard).
Get the idea?
Also, I recommend a sand sifting goby pretty much for every tank setup. Something that will stir the sand a bit and keep things clean looking is nice. Dragon Gobies (Amblygobius phalaena) is a great choice....
1. What sort of water flow do you have? Inadequate (low quantity and/or non-diffuse) flow can often be a contributor to cyano problems.
2. What sort of nutrient export methods are you using? Options include protein skimming, growth of macroalgae (chaeto is best), NNR (natural nitrate reduction) via a Deep Sand Bed or Remote DSB.
3. What sort of lighting are you using?
4. What other filtration do you have in place? This includes live rock, power filters, etc.
5. Are you utilizing any chemical filtration methods? This includes Carbon, phosphate removers (go for GFO phosphate removers, avoid Aluminum based such as PhosGuard).
Get the idea?
Also, I recommend a sand sifting goby pretty much for every tank setup. Something that will stir the sand a bit and keep things clean looking is nice. Dragon Gobies (Amblygobius phalaena) is a great choice....
Serra
New member
I agree that a water flow increase will help. Evaluate how much you are feeding the tank. If you get my fug, and use chaeto, that will help. I am selling my HOB Seaclone skimmer as soon as I get my new skimmer for the 75.
Meanwhile, suction it off the rocks and do your water changes!
Sheryl
Meanwhile, suction it off the rocks and do your water changes!
Sheryl
