Manual removal of larger chunks, good flow throughout the tank, light feeding, maintenance of good tank parameters - specifically nitrates and phosphates, proper stocking levels. In the case of your nano, probably weekly water changes.
thanks guys! My params are good, tested them all ecept mag all read good, corals are good, but that darn algae! I'll do what you guys are suggesting....
i got a a/c 110 on it, with a powerhead, no ro/di water, I use tap water with aqua-safe, tank have been set up for a year and a half, water change 1 gallon a week...
I'm definitely a novice at this but a buddy suggested adding a fish in order to get the cycle really working. I tried it and my cyano problem cleared up. I used a lawn mower blenny because I didn't really want a fish in my tank with my corals and I don't see him very often. So, I'd have to agree that your parameters are not really showing what's going on in your tank. My friend said I had perpetual new tank syndrome without a fish in there and the frequent water changes.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12393247#post12393247 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BlackPirhana but i thought aquasafe eliminates those things?
Aquasafe neutralizes Chlorine it does absolutely nothing to remove nitrate and phosphate the two nutrients the feed algae not to mention all the other crap that comes in tap water.
You need to use RO/DI water or your going to run into nothing but more problems.
If you don't want to invest in a RO/DI system for such a small tank, I would recommend buying "distilled" water at the grocery store. I personally, do not trust any of the RO/DI water the LFS's sell or the various purified stuff you can buy at the store.
If you live close to St. Charles and have some water jugs I would be willing to give you a fill up or two to see if it makes a difference for you. For a tank as small as yours one of those cheap ebay units may be sufficient. If you wanted a better way to justify the cost, use it for your drinking water as well. I just split mine off before the DI for our drinking water and ice maker. My wife will no longer drink water from the tap after tasting the RO water.
I also agree about not using the water from some of the LFS. Won't mention any names but I checked the TDS of one store and it was over 50. That was enough to get me to buy a RO/DI filter. It has been about 2 years since I did that so things may be better now.
Not intending to hijack this thread but since we're on the topic - does anyone know how distilled water and RO/DI water compare to each other chemically?
Chemically, H20 is H20 however it's the extra solutes in the water that we worry about, chlorine, phosphate, and various metals for starters. "Theoretically", distilled water should be 100% pure H20 as its heated to a gas and the cooled back to liquid form leaving all the solutes behind. Reverse Osmosis units utilize a semipermeable membrane to filter out most anything larger than a water molecule. However, no RO membrane is perfect and some solutes still get through. A deionization (DI) resin is often used to trap any stray ionized solutes that may pass through the RO membrane. A properly maintained and operated RO/DI unit can be up to 99% effective at removing impurities in water. However, its effectiveness is substantially reduced if the membrane and filters are not maintained or if the user runs a lower waste to product ratio.
When my ro filter clogged I was useing water from my dehumidifer It worked great the corals never looked so good but to much trouble sence the RO auto tops off my tank .But thats water as pure as it gets.
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