Cyanobacteria or Dinoflagelettes?

Mine's 75 gal. Sure looked better after 24. Had 1/2 lights on for 2 hrs. May go with that again and see.

Main still has some of that red stringy stuff in parts of the sand but it looks much better. Lights were 2hrs today. May leave it at that tomorrow.
 
Update: my fuge looks 100% better. Slowly going to bring the lights back up. On 4 hrs or so today.

Display same: still some of that stringy stuff in the sand. Worried it will explode out of control but perhaps with the fuge more or less cleared, if the macros start growing fast that will keep things in check.

I'm going to expand my carbon "reactor" length to enable a larger quantity of carbon to run. It's just a tube of pvc capped with holes at one end and threads at the other to connect to a Mag 3.5, and foam at either end to prevent the carbon from escaping.
 
I have been battling my tank with this problem for several weeks, I tried this and after just a couple of days it has cleared up. This process really does work.
 
Display is still completely clear.

Not only that, but running a large amount of carbon has caused the nasty red/brown turfy crap that was covering my rock, that killed 2 lawnmower blennies, several emerald crabs, and 2 sea hares, that my longspine urchin did not touch, to die off. What was once impossible to scrape off the rock is now brushing off with a light touch. Skimmer is sucking out tons of stuff as this dies off. Rock getting multicolored coralline growth once again.

Halides back to a regimen of noon to 6pm. Will extend slowly up to another two hours or so perhaps.

Fuge has been more difficult. I think I ramped up the lighting too fast but I was worried about my chaeto. But the red fuzz is starting to show again. I'll give it another day and then may do another 24 lights off attempt. I'm still not happy with the fuge but it'll get there.

If only my work vs my first case of ich in 2.5 yrs were this successful. But I am finding the uproar about the miracle of hyposalinity to be nothing more than a myth and may punt to copper. But that is another thread (2, in fact).

Whatever this was, cyano, dinos, diatoms, or some other nuisance algae/bacteria, or, most likely, some unfortunate combination, is finally gone! Thank you tekknoschtev!
 
I personally do not believe that the carbon could be the direct cause of the outbreak + the death of all of those ideams. From what I've read, dinoflagellets are poisonous to creatures that eat it. We lost nearly all of our snails and a few hermits. Fortunately felix (our LMB) was unaffected, but that's because he's a meat eater, and snuffs the algae crap :p

Glad to hear things are getting back on track.
 
tekknoschtev said:
I personally do not believe that the carbon could be the direct cause of the outbreak + the death of all of those ideams.

I did the lights-out, that is what wiped out the problem stuff. I think the massive carbon helped also to wipe out that turf algae stuff, AND to keep the water clean during the die-off.

The LMB death was from eating the poisonous stuff. The LMB most definitely ate that turf stuff, and I witnessed the munching. I witnessed the vomiting. And I witnessed the gagging, gasping, death over a period of 24 hrs after. I assume the other animals followed a same course but I only witnessed it in the LMB. I suspect highly that an Atl Blue Tang also kicked as it died within 2 days after I saw it gorging itself for a good 10min on a particularly heavy patch of the stuff.

BUT: I did the 24hrs (36 in fact) lights-out, followed by 1hr addl lights on every day after. Held at 4hrs for a week. Holding at 6hrs for a week. Then will go to 7 or 8 hrs and leave it there.

I think carbon is a good idea. It was after I doubled the amount that I noticed the turf die-off but I attribute it to the lights. Fortuitous timing though as the additional carbon was needed.
 
tekknoschtev said:
No, we didnt do waterchanges, as they seemed to only fuel this outbreak. Oddly enough, all information I could find pertaining to dinoflagellets said the same - the trace elements in the new water fuel it. So we went without water changes.



I am also intereted on Dr. Ron's thought on not doing water changes for Dino? I have been fighting Dino for a couple months and water changes is one of many things are I am trying to get it under control. Slowly, but surely, it's getting better but should I cut down on the water changes? I do about 2-4 a week at 5-10% per change.

A few other things I have done to help fight it:
Bought and RO/DI unit. My TDS reading is 1.
Sectioned off about part of my sump with a refugium with live rock and chaeto. I am using a 5100K PC light similiar to one of Melevs Reef.
Manually get the stuff out of the tank.
Reduced feedings.
Temporarily reduced lighting.
 
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My last update here. Display lights back on all the way, and all seems well. Got a small patch of yuck in the fuge still by the chaeto and one other mystery macro are growing well now, so I'm not worried at all. I consider this a closed story success!
 
Brown Algae/Diatoms

Brown Algae/Diatoms

Been reading the posts and I am experiencing the same thing in my reef-------Up and running for about 4 months now and was doing great, then all of a sudden BOOM!!! I come home one day and brown algae everywhere (basically this stuff just comes right off the rock with a little force of a sponge or something). All my levels are fine 0 everything actually calcuim a little high at 550. Started doing water changes, but now after reading messages on the board don't know if that was a good thing. Overfeeding is not a problem as most Tangs/Angles are picking off the reef. Corals are being covered up and the only thing I can relate to the problem is Lighting and maybe doing too much water changes. If the silicates are entering the tank that could be feeding the problem too? I have been going at 6-8 hrs lighting then increased to 10 and thats where the problem seemed to start, also with increased lighting the temp actually went up too (80-81 degrees). I don't know if that caused or helped cause the outbreak, but my tank looked just like the post with the picture of his tank brown covering rock, sand, glass. I would stir up stand and get it out, just that quick it would be back in hrs. Anyhow I appreciate all the posts on the topic and right now I will cut off lighting for a couple days and see how that goes. Oh yeah also my protein skimmer has been running like crazy (I have to empty it so it doesn't overflow at night). Would this be considered typical of the problem, pulling lots of proteins out? Thanks Mike
 
I think the skimming is good as I have read you want to export the nutrients. Skimming is one of the ways to do it.

Be sure you are using RO/DI water. I was using TAP, then store RO water, and I finally bought and RO/DI filter a few months ago.

Cutting off the lights will help but in my experience, it comes back a couple days after I turn them on. It is also advised to change your bulbs every six months or so.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6336798#post6336798 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mkawayoshi
Cutting off the lights will help but in my experience, it comes back a couple days after I turn them on. It is also advised to change your bulbs every six months or so.

True enough on the bulbs.

As for it coming back, read through this now longish thread. Your problem may be in how you are turning them back on....
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6337332#post6337332 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ostrow
True enough on the bulbs.

Your problem may be in how you are turning them back on....

When you say how you are turning them back on, are you suggesting I do the four hours a day for a week..and then bump them up maybe an hour a week until I get the number of hours I want or something to that effect?
 
No. Go back and read through. 24-48 hrs off. Then on for 1hr, adding 1hr a day. Hold at 4hrs a week, then add an hr a day to wherever you want to end up. If bubbles reappear, lights off 24hrs, then back to where you were (but not more than 4hrs).
 
patience...it will burn out if you are keeping proper husbandry...feed less....try a fast twice a week it will be beneficial.
 
David, that works if you have FOWLR tank, or a tank with no inverts who will suffer from it. In my case, there were a multitude of reasons for the dinos taking hold and then exploding in growth. Yes, after fixing them we did notice a marked improvement, however, if the corals were still in there we'd have lost every single one of them...

Its like using chemicals to treat cyano bacteria. I dont believe in using them to treat the problelm but to get an upperhand on the problem while you fix the husbandry skills that works. (By the way, not going to get into that argument here, its been done before).

If I had tried, as you stated, to improve my husbandry skills while maintaining the tank as-is, you;d have seen someone very upset with the help given online because I;d have lost nearly $1,200 worth of corals. But putting a bit more effort into it, fixing my husbandry skills, I lost a $5 stalk of xenia. I think my method works out better because in the end, the husbandry skills were improved, I learned from my mistake, and didnt lose too much doing it (Oh and about $30 worth of snails I lost as well).
 
rshemik,

I can't seem to find the thread you referred to below. Can anyone direct me to the reading?

"To address the problems, you need to reduce the nutrient levels in the in the system significantly. For a plan of attack see the sticky thread, near the top of the forum listings titled, "Red slime algae...."

Carl
 
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