. . . da RC Artsy-Cube project - - - Picture Intense

cerreta

Premium Member
I am building a 15 gallon starfire trimless “RC Artsy-Cube.” The main display is a 14” cube tank. The internal Closed-Loop Sump is 5 Gallons

Being in the hobby for several years has given me the opportunity to build relationships with many people in the hobby. In Tucson I have helped many reefers with their aquarium projects, including aquascaping and helping newbies by supplying them with free or very low cost corals to get them started in the hobby.

The objective of this project is to use those relationships developed here on Reef Central and build this project with materials and labor from the RC people.

Although a small aquarium, my budget for this project is $1500. I plan to use high end equipment and exotic corals. Luckily I have plenty of frags to stock this tank, but I am looking for “show-piece” colors for this project.

I have asked several people for their assistance with this project. These people have offered to help at no cost, frag trades, or even for chocolates. I have a very good connection with that. I wish to keep these people anonymous since their contributions are so generous and they could get a flood of offerings for helping out with TOO many other projects. However, if they wish to announce themselves here on this thread, then that is cool!


Currently, the tank has been assembled, but nothing has been drilled or tested at this point. I am definitely open for suggestions and more ideas. If anyone has an expertise, equipment, or a skill they are willing to share, please help. The more the merrier.


Here are some of the ORIGINAL (October 2007) design ideas: (CAPS REPRESENT NEW COMMENTS MADE TODAY)

BASICS:
The artsy look comes from using classic colors black and silver with geometric shapes predominately squares and circles. The entire project from light to plumbing has been chosen to accent the colors and shapes. If it does not look like art, then it will not be used.

The premise is a stylish tank with no external sump, no skimmer, no chiller, no extensive filters or media, no live rock, and no exposed wires or equipment of any kind. It must be ultra quiet and produce no appreciable heat. It will be an sps display tank with a few snails and one high dollar fish. I am considering a Helfrichs or Red Frog fish Angler. I sure could use more ideas for a solitary cool fish. I will rely on weekly water changes and Oceans Blend 2 Part to export nutrients and maintain Alk / Ca, respectively.

TANK:
The tank features starfire glass and it is trimless. I used clear silicone to seat the glass with a very generous bead. After 24 hour curing all the excess silicone was cut away. Therefore the only silicone holding this tank together is what lies within the joints. With the exception of the bottom pane.

WATER CIRCULATION
The internal sump sits directly in the middle of the cube. It has a fixed bottom portion and a rotating top. The top houses two Tunze nano stream 6025 pumps. The pumps are connected to a wavemaker (I am leading towards a Neptune Aquacontroller Jr) and alternate on/off in a one minute intervals. When one pump cycles on, the top rotates from the propulsion of flow 180 degrees to a stop point. In one minute, it shuts off and the other pump cycles on and rotates the top back the other direction. The pumps should provide adequate flow, maybe even too much. The top rotates smoothly on a sealed bearing from a Cervelo bicycle headset (I just changed the bearings and this was a handy extra part). THIS DESIGN FAILED. IN ORDER TO INCORPORATE THE PUMPS, THE TOP WAS TOO LARGE AND THE CORALS WOULD NOT GET ADEQUATE LIGHT. I MAY ATTEMPT THIS DESIGN IN THE FUTURE WITH A 24” CUBE.


HIDING DEVICES
All electrical devices will be stored inside the internal sump. All wires are routed through the 1 1/4" PVC pipe which leads through a single bulkhead into the custom stand where the electrical boxes, controllers, and auto-top off device are located. In order to keep the cords dry, the PVC pipe extends above the surface of the water. The rotating top also extends several inches above the water’s surface to hide the plumbing.

TANK INHABITANTS
A one inch black sand bed is used on the bottom of the tank. Four sps Acropora corals are mounted to each of the four sump walls. A Starfire glass ring is mounted in a suspended fashion around the sump walls and suspended by 1/2" clear acrylic tube. Four sps Montipora caps are mounted to the ring aligned with the corners of the sump walls. The tank is stocked with eight corals twelve snails, and one fish. Again, this is the plan at this point. I am sure things will change during the build process.

STAND:
The stand will be custom built from an 8" steel pipe mounted to a 14” square top and bottom metal sheet. A section will be cut from the pipe lengthwise to make the tube a C shape. A couple of shelves will be placed inside the tube for storage of supplies and electrical equipment. An idea I have been considering is to mount a large bearing on the top and bottom of the tube so that it can rotate 360 degrees. Since this will be in my office, it will be nice to have the C-tube closed so that no supplies are visible, then when I need something, I can just spin the tube to position the opening at the front and I can access the goods. Any thoughts? I FIGURED IT OUT. MORE LATER.

LIGHTING:
At this time, the light fixture will be the brand new Solana brushed aluminum Orb with 150 watt HQI 14k lamp. I will likely change to a Radium 20K lamp. However, I am very hot for the new Solaris I4 LED lamp. The new series includes a 14” model which would fit perfectly over this Artsy-Cube. It features the same computer and all its functions as its bigger brothers: dimming, color temp adjust, cloud cover, moonlighting and seasonal settings, etc. It also has more power than previous generations and provides equal PAR compared to a 15K lamp 400w MH !!! STICKING WITH THE SOLANA FOR NOW.


Project Contributions:

TANK DESIGN:
A fellow RC reefer and I were driving back to Tucson from a Phoenix fish store shopping spree. A boring 2 hour drive led to the development of this tank. Originally we talked about building a 24” 50 gallon cube, but with my limited office space, we are going nano! We conceived the idea of building a starfire trimless tank with no exposed wires. We actually had several great ideas and this is the one that surfaced. The rotating powerheads was not a part of that brainstorming. We had originally designed using a powerhead at the bottom of the internal sump and using a 4-way splitter to propel water out of each side of the baffle walls. If the rotating idea fails, this is what I will likely do. NOPE, I CAME UP WITH AN EVEN BETTER PLAN.

STARFIRE GLASS:
Custom cut by an RC member. I traded zoanthids and some chocolates and cashews for the starfire glass. I think he got the better deal. . . just kidding.



BLOWN GLASS:
Suspending the starfire glass ring in the tank will be tricky. Instead of mounting it flat, I will angle the glass to break the conventional lines and perspective. I will use some custom blown glass to anchor the ring and maybe some additional shapes where needed. I LOST MY CONNECTION FOR THE BLOWN GLASS, SO I OPTED FOR CLEAR ACRYLIC TUBE.

STAND:
A fellow RC reefer is experienced with welding and steel pipes. We will try to build a stand that accentuates the geometrical shapes contiguous through the project. We have yet to work out the details, I have lots of chocolates for you, your kids and even their friends. THE IDEA CREATED FOR THIS STAND IS JUST AS COOL AS THE TANK!!! I HOPE IT CAN BE DONE.

CORALS:
I received one coral that was especially donated for this project. It is a brilliant bright blue Acropora sp. Others that will go in there are a Acropora yongei (Green Slimer), Acropora acilles (sp), Acropora tort (Cali blue tort), Montipora capricornis (Idaho Grape, Green with purple rim, Orange-Red) and I am in need of one more Monti cap. Anyone willing to trade something with unusually brilliant colors?


Here are some photos:

This is a 2D Sketchup image. To view the 3D model, log into Sketchup (free download from Google). Click on the tool "Get Models" then type "artsy cube" and click search. You will be able to view the 3D model and a description of the build.

14gallonArtsyNanoCube.jpg


Artsy-Cubeassemblyofglass003.jpg


Artsy-Cubeassemblyofglass005.jpg


Artsy-Cubeassemblyofglass006.jpg


Artsy-Cubeassemblyofglass009.jpg


Artsy-Cubeassemblyofglass010.jpg


Artsy-Cubeassemblyofglass014.jpg
 
Well, there was a chance that I had to relocate, so I placed this project on hold. I also hit a snag with the design and was lacking creative thought for awhile. Katherine and I will remain in Tucson for another four years, so I began working on this project again. The aquarium will be located at my office.

In lieu of the internal rotating Closed-Loop Circuit (CLC), I built one at the back of the tank. The main display is 10 gallons and the CLC Sump is 5 gallons.

I kept the same idea for the electrical solution, but I relocated it to the sump. This meant that I could make the coral tube smaller. It will also be filled with black sand to aid in filtration by serving as a deep sand bed (DSB). Then, I will stick a coral on top of the open top.

I also decided to rotate the square tube to break up the vertical lines. Therefore, the angles of the tube point directly to the flat panes of glass. The glass Ring will look super cool angling from back to front in a downward angle.

Since the back wall of the tank is made of glass I chose to use Handi-Foam. I first tried painting it, but that was stupid and the paint began to pull away from the glass after two days of leak testing the tank.

I have foamed tanks before, but my technique was different this time. Working with foam is very challenging and messy. I do not like the “turd” look of foam when applying it, so I use a gloved hand and lightly stroke the foam after one minute. The cells break open and release lots of air. This will also flatten the foam and make a huge mess.

A concern I have is that the foam wall must not take up too much real estate in this small tank. So, after ten minutes the foam was firm to the touch on the exterior, but still gooey inside. So I began pressing the foam firmly towards the glass. I have never done this before! What I discovered is that a lot of air gets trapped in pockets. Pressing the foam released the air and once gone, the foam would stick better to the glass. I was also able to flatten the foam from about 1” to ¼ inch. This technique worked extremely well. A major complaint many people have about using foam is that it will separate from the back wall and begin to float. I think I found a remedy. Squash that foam after 10 minutes and release all the air pockets.

OK, now for the pictures. I will discuss the stand build later on. For now, I will install the tank at work on a file cabinet and relocate it to the metal tube stand after it is built.

Here are recent photos:

Artsy-CubeBuild4-18-08002.jpg


Artsy-CubeBuild4-18-08003.jpg


Artsy-CubeBuild4-18-08005.jpg


Artsy-CubeBuild4-18-08006.jpg


Artsy-CubeBuild4-18-08007.jpg


Artsy-CubeBuild4-18-08009.jpg


Artsy-CubeBuild4-18-08011.jpg


Artsy-CubeBuild4-18-08013.jpg


Artsy-CubeBuild4-18-08014.jpg


Artsy-CubeBuild4-18-08016.jpg
 
Yesterday’s Work

Acrylic Rod mounted to Starfire Ring
FinalAssembly002.jpg


FinalAssembly003.jpg


FinalAssembly004.jpg


Incidentally, the back sump area really came in handy when it comes to mounting the Solana. Since he Solana is designed to be centered over a 20” cube, I can just mount the lamp to the back of the stand and it will be centered over the tank since the true dimensions are 14x14x20.
FinalAssembly005.jpg


Tank lying on its back and prepped for Handi-Foam.
FinalAssembly010.jpg


Prepared grills with tape so they do not get foamed.
FinalAssembly014.jpg


FinalAssembly015.jpg


This is what the foam looks like before I mashed it down. It expanded ½” to 1”.
FinalAssembly016.jpg


FinalAssembly018.jpg


A photo after the tape has been removed from the grills. Notice how flat the foam is now!
FinalAssembly020.jpg
 
Thanks man. Where did I make a reference to page two? I just started this thread, but pieced together info that I generated late last year.
 
Oh, in case some people are wondering, I painted the inside of the glass sump wall black. You can see that in the photos.

This was a failure and stupid idea. During the leak test, the paint began to peel away. That is what led to foaming the back wall.

The sump was painted black on the outside after assembly and this is working out well.

The only acrylic in the tank is the Square tube, lid for sump, and rods to hold the Ring in place.
 
I did a leak test last week. Here are a few photos:


Tank with two Tunze pumps in action. There is plenty of flow, but not too much. I'm very glad that I drilled the extra holes for the option of adding two more pumps. This will be the plan.
LeakTest001.jpg


Another angle
LeakTest004.jpg



This is the CurrentSea Wavemaker. Cost is $47 direct from the maker. It is a great little wavemaker for the money. I plan to run four pumps and only two will be powered on at any given time. Someone posed the question: Will a single hole be large enough to pull enough water into the sump? The answer is yes. Because only two pumps will be operating at a time, flow will freely pass through the body of the other two Tunze pumps. So essentially there are three intakes and two outputs.

I am using the controller in a mode that switches between pumps every 5 seconds. So this fast switching really creates a wave effect, rather than long delays which just change flow patterns. Most controllers do not have this fast changing time.

A caveat worth discussing. The Tunze pump has a loud start and will sometimes flow is directed backwards. I tested the controller with my other tank using Korallias and it is silent. The flow always goes foward too becasue the Korallia has an anti-reverse mechanism. I wish the Tunze had one.

The Tunze is also not intended to be used on a controller, so I do realize that I am pushing the limitations of this pump, bit hey this hobby would be boring if I did not try to break stuff. Besides, it keeps the manufacturers busy with trying to meet consumer demands and this is good for the hobby.

Because of noise, I'm going to try a Reef Fanatic controller since is has a soft start mechanism. Not sure if it will be any better, but I will try it. If it works out then I will put the CurrentSea on the other tank.

LeakTest010.jpg


Flow with only one pump on.
LeakTest014.jpg


Flow with the other pump on.
LeakTest015.jpg
 
Ok, those pics were a bit out of order but now I am back on track.

These photos were just taken. You can really begin to see the artsy flair coming to life.

Image, a cube with vertical lines.

A rectangular tube with vertical lines angled to add more vertical lines to the same viewing angle.

A ring slanted to break the vertical lines and angled into the corner of the tank rather than directly towards the front pane.

Circular grills fashioned in a half circle angaist the back wall.

An overhanging brushed aluminum Orb light fixture to accent the circles and ring.

The beautiful thing is that all these geometric shapes can be appeciated without any abbarant lines that would typically be created by power cords.

Here is that awesome Starfire ring which took four tries to cut because it would keep cracking.
FinalAssembly021.jpg


The vertical lines disrupted by a slanting line
FinalAssembly022.jpg


You can see the bearing in place. The lid will have a PVC piece that will fit directly into the bearing. The bearing really has no purpose. It was the moving feature of the orignal design where the center tube had a large tube over it that would spin when the power heads occillated. Therfore, it is a reminder of the previously failed attempt to create motion. However, I have some ideas about using that thing since it is already there. I could replace that lid with a circular table and stick a plant up there or something. Hmmm, anyone have ideas on how to use this?
FinalAssembly027.jpg


All coming together
FinalAssembly029.jpg


This will be the bottom board that the tank resides on. It is trimmed with Oak. The next project will be building the Artsy-Cylinder stand where this piece will go away.
FinalAssembly030.jpg
 
So am I :thumbsup:

Hey Adam, next time you or your dad are in town you have to swing by my office at the American Lung Association on Broadway and check it out. I should have corals in there in a couple weeks.

Hey, do you have any totally exotic sps that I can trade you for?

Besides, I work at a non-profit organization. That means I work with hot chicks. Ahhh, it's nice being the only guy there :)
 
That is coming along nicely. The cover for the sump area bugs me a little bit. I think I would have the front piece smooth, with the cut edge facing up instead of front. Or bend the acrylic so it is a clean one-piece cover.

I'm looking forward to your progress and eventual submission to the Modern Reef thread.

Why is an extra piece of glass glued to the base of the Nano?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12419895#post12419895 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by McCrary
Dude, are you planning on keeping a fish in there?

From the very first post:

<b>It will be an sps display tank with a few snails and one high dollar fish. I am considering a Helfrichs or Red Frog fish Angler. I sure could use more ideas for a solitary cool fish.</b> I will rely on weekly water changes and Oceans Blend 2 Part to export nutrients and maintain Alk / Ca, respectively.

- and -

TANK INHABITANTS
A one inch black sand bed is used on the bottom of the tank. Four sps Acropora corals are mounted to each of the four sump walls. A Starfire glass ring is mounted in a suspended fashion around the sump walls and suspended by 1/2" clear acrylic tube. Four sps Montipora caps are mounted to the ring aligned with the corners of the sump walls. The tank is stocked with eight corals twelve snails, <b>and one fish</b>. Again, this is the plan at this point. I am sure things will change during the build process.
 
Thanks for that Marc, I didn't know if Scott was still going to do a fish in the tank.

Scott- Do you have a frag of my X-Factor monti, it might make a good 4th frag for the monti collection.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12419037#post12419037 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cerreta
Besides, I work at a non-profit organization. That means I work with hot chicks. Ahhh, it's nice being the only guy there :)

My girlfriend is not eye candy ;).
 
My girlfriend is not eye candy .


hehehee. . . then you should marry her.

Still planning on one fish. Not sure I am going to place the Monti caps.

Marc, thanks for the tip on the lid. I will come up with something. That piece is a bit warped too, so I don't like it either.

I'm not quite sure what you mean. Are you suggesting a lid for the sump that fits over that region like a lid on a toilet bowl? A one piece lid with a 1/2" curved edge downward on all four sides? The tank kinda looks like that too, :) Maybe I should put a flusher handle on the side, to represent all the money I flushed into this tank. hehehehehehe!

My acrylic skills suck, can you make me something or recommend a someone?

The bottom piece is because I screwed up the orignal design. The original tank had a hole in the center of the 3/8" glass plate. I tried to remove it, but shipped a piece of the brittle starfire galss, so I canned that idea in a hurry. I cut another piece of 1/4" glass, drillled it with a hole for the sump and then added another piece of 3/8" glass in the sump area to build that area back to the proper high.

Not an ideal situation, but a true work in progress.
 
How about an interruptis pygmy angel? That's high dollar, and boy are they beautiful! My favorite small angel by far!

This is an amazing concept, beautiful.
 
Nice idea. I like to see people thinking out of the box making unique tanks. I wish I had that gene :lol:
 
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