Damn You phosphates!!!

Justin--if you need to borrow a Mg test, let me know. I have one that you can borrow for a week or 2 till your levels go up. Also, try to get your Ca at 450 or higher, natural ocean water is at 450 for Ca and 1250 to 1300 for Mg. If you have a double ended bulb for your halide, I can let you borrow the extra one that I have for a couple of weeks to see if it makes a difference. Either way, if you need any help don't hesitate to ask. I feel your pain, this hobby can test the patience of even the wisest and patient of people.
 
thanks for the offers. i will take the Mg test for sure, i have always wondered about that.
I am just going to buy a new light, but i am trying to determine which one to go with.
I still need to pick up the TDS meter also

I prob can't pick this stuff up untill possibly monday night. but when i do i will bring a frag of the green birds nest for you both. that way if it fades away i can get a piece back from either one of you.

so weird. they are growing pretty well, just not colored up.
 
Catalina Aquariums has good lights for reasonable prices. They have T5, MH, to LED. They can even custom make one for you if you wish. Also, since the economy has not turned as we all know it, many people on RC, RS, Nano-forums, etc, are getting rid of their equipment at pretty damn good prices. LMK around what time you want to pick up the Mg test on monday. Maybe I can meet you half way somewhere in town.
 
well i guess i should say new bulb cause my wife had a cow when i told her i got a new light.

i just ordered the 14K phoenix. i hope it turns out okay.
 
i guess that would tell me if i didn't get the filters seated correctly. this is the first filter change for me, but i really didn't think that i could mess that up. seemed like the filters went in normally.

another think i thought of was chloramine. if cruces all of a sudden decided to use chloramine instead of chlorine i bet that would mess stuff up. but i would assume more people that have ro/di would notice.

My Ro/Di is design for the Chloramine. It was from Bulk reef supply. But when i was talking to them on the phone they want me to change the first filter (sediment filter) like ever three month or so. At 0ppm for me

Steffen Sparks
 
well my ro unit isn't set up for chloramine. i don't believe that cruces uses it.

i am going to order a new 75 gal/day membrane i have found them as low as 27 (if i remember correctly) but am unsure of the quality. i don't think i need to change my filters every three months, how many gals in that three months do you use? i only make 20-40 gal per month. seems like the filters could make more than 120 gal before needing changed.
 
A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the useable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. A good 0.5 micron carbon block for example will remove 99% of chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Some original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your TDS meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million) in three places:
1. Tap water
2. After the RO but before the DI
3. After the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 parts per million (ppm). Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block filter (collectively called “prefilters”) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO housing and you'll see it is still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce less purified water (aka “permeate”), but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The life span of a RO membrane is dependant upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the total dissolved solids (TDS) in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce less water as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the 40 ppm water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin “dirty” water. This will exhaust the resin quicker than would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal!

Russ
 
Justin just realized a way simpler for the Mg test. Well, after you add the .04 from 1.0 to the tester, just fill the syringe back up, add the attachment ((the small attachment is almost .10 ml)(w/o filling like i had told you to due, then filling the syringe, bla bla bla)), and then put the reagent back into its bottle till you have .06 again. This should give you a full syringe and attachment. Because the reagent will fill up the attachment before the drops commence. Does this sound simpler? Hope so, LMK if it works!
 
did you live near weed? i love that area. i elk hunt that area every year NM thinks i should be able to.

DEEHZ, Yeah that does make since. i haven't had a chance to test yet. that boy of mine was pretty mad by the time i got home...then my new bulb was in so i had to install that, and my new propellers on the K4's were causeing a sand storm so i had to do that....

i know it has only been on about an hour, but the phoenix 14K really makes the colors pop compared to the Hamilton 14K. and it is just a tad more blue.

and if you need some more flow out of your old worn out k4, definatley get the mj sure flow kit. most of them come with two props, and you just need a little mod to add them to your k4 magnet. holy flow batman! made me realize how much flow i was lacking.
 
You bet! I remember what came out of the tap there in Alamo - you'd be hard presses to call that water.

Russ
russ
I could not live in Gordo even if the housing was for free. They should have a slogan there," if you want to have an all natural look with no body hair, drink our water. It comes from the most unnatural water tables in the US--H2O + radioactive isotopes+jet fuel= great tasting natural spring water!" lol!
 
russ
H2O + radioactive isotopes+jet fuel= great tasting natural spring water!" lol!
Don't forget the Caliche! That water is hard!!!
hammer.gif
I wonder what the rate of kidney stones is over there!!

Jay
 
okay so i tested
tap 709
ro 104
so that is an 85% reduction in TDS. not as bad as i was thinking it would be. I went two years without replacing any of the filters.
with more frequent prefilter replacement, the membrane should last far longer.
 
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