Design Help Needed DIY Sump/Fuge

[Dantique]

So I came across a free 100G acrylic tank for free. I have been wanting to move my sump to the basement and expand. Current tank is a 90 with a Durso Overflow. I was a FOWLR for several years then moved into softies and looking to advance slowly. I have searched uncountable number of threads and websites looking for design tips. To be honest, I am just plain old confused and overwhelmed with the variations. :headwally:
What I would like: I would like a section for top off, skimmer and refugium. Dimensions for the 100g acrylic are 72"w, 18"d, 19"h. I plan on using an external pump (haven't decided...:more confusion) I think my main concern is intake volume and providing enough return volume. My tank does not have an emergency overflow..ugg How do I prevent overfilling the main display in case of a return blockage? Is this 100g too big?
Other questions: compartment sizes such as return, intake/skimmer and refugium.
I have several other questions but this is a start.
Thanks For taking the time to read and help!

 

[jacksonpt]

As far as I know, a 3-chamber design is still the tried-and-true standard: a drain/skimmer section, a fuge section, and a return section (though not necessarily in that order).

You'll use baffles to section off the sump. The size of your return section will determine how much water can be pumped into the display (or onto the floor, or...) before the pump runs dry if the drain(s) clog/fail. A smaller return section is a bit more "secure", but it will also be much more sensitive to evaporation and changing water levels (the return section is where you'll see this - not throughout the sump in general).

Similarly, how much you fill the sump will determine how much back-flow it can handle should the return pump fail. Given the size of your sump compared to the size of your tank, this shouldn't be a big issue, but is something to think about.

As far as sizing the compartments... the drain/skimmer section should be big enough to comfortably hold your drain plumbing, and filter socks you may want to run, and your skimmer. Fuge size can/will vary. Bigger is usually better, but not necessarily at the expense of other sections. The return section needs to hold your return pump (or bulkhead/plumbing for an external pump), and be big enough to handle normal evaporation and ATO needs.

Hope that helps get you started. If you look at commercial sumps, they are often REALLY complicated. While some of that complexity can be nice for some setups, it's rarely "required". Look at DIY sumps and you'll see A LOT of common themes between them.

 

[outy]

Having a rubbermade 100g stocktank basement sump was my best upgrade in 25 years of reefing. I like this because it insulates batter then glass of plexi, and ease of use.

No need for multiple chambers. Run an external skimmer.

makes water changes a 10 minute exercise

 

[Dantique]

Jackson and Outy, thanks for responding.
Outy- I had serious thought of using a stock tank until the 100g acrylic fell in my lap ( for free). I live in central PA and yes, insulation will be an issue for me.

Jackson- The return section size is what is making my head spin.

I have attached a rough draft of what I have summed up from my research. It is not to scale by any means. 100g 72"L x 18"D x 19"H

Please feel free to add thoughts or criticize

 

[oldhead]

Are you only using cheato in the fuge? You could baffle that side too so the flow goes through to the bottom, under the baffle and up over the next and into the return section. This will also reduce any bubbles.

 

[outy]

If you have a internal skimmer, just make a stand for it. No need to section it off.

Run an ATO and keep water level constant.

I have a booster pump and electronic solenoid that is on a timer 30 minutes a day that keeps a 10G storage container full, that has an aqualifter that feed my kalk reactor and ATO.

I never have to touch water level ever.

Also I use a foam insulation board as an insulated cover which really helps in winter.

If you need a fuge, I cut a round hole in insulation and used 6" of the bottom of a 5g bucket with holes drilled in and a light above it. Now I use a ATS built in

My sump is set up for ease of water changes, but best of all No maintenance at all. I only add kalk every 3-6 months as needed. And change out c02 tanks.

 

[jacksonpt]

When you say ATO, what do you mean? The actual water used to top off/replace evaporation, or the location where your ATO sensor will be?

 

[Dantique]

Are you only using cheato in the fuge? You could baffle that side too so the flow goes through to the bottom, under the baffle and up over the next and into the return section. This will also reduce any bubbles.

Oldhead- great idea, I didn't think of a bubble trap for the five. This is why I ask for help.

 

[Dantique]

I wanted to incorporate the top off into a section of the sump. Any negatives with doing this?

 

[jacksonpt]

I wanted to incorporate the top off into a section of the sump. Any negatives with doing this?

The actual topoff water? It's just a big risk if there were ever a leak that allowed the topoff water into the tank/sump water.

 

[dt204]

I have a basement sump. I plumbed in to a standalone fuge, and included a small frag tank in the sump. I use kalk in a 5 gallon pail for my ATO. Check out my thread, might give you some ideas!

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[outy]

I wanted to incorporate the top off into a section of the sump. Any negatives with doing this?

Only positive.

I used autotopoff.com unit and its over a decade old and still works prefect

 

[outy]

The actual topoff water? .

yes

It's just a big risk if there were ever a leak that allowed the topoff water into the tank/sump water

Nope none at all. I use a separate 10g top off container, so if the pump stuck on, it would drain the 10g and that's it.

ATO's have been around a long time and they are accident proof for the most part if set up right.

My 10g bucket is tied to my ro/di which is on a timer to fill bucket for 30 minutes only a day.

Many people use 20g tubs with kalk in the bottom, and refill tubs weekly. I did that for a decade, and finally did it right and plumbed it to refill itself

 

[Dantique]

Outy,

I was talking about incorporating an ATO chamber within the 100g tank along side of the other chambers. Like Jackson says there is a risk of leaking or even a overflow risk should the ATO flood into the sump.

 

[jacksonpt]

There's a risk with everything, no matter what you do. But you can manage/minimize the risk. How much effort you put into that depends on a few factors, so you'll have to make that decision for yourself.

If I were in your shoes, I would keep the ATO reservoir separate, but that's based on my own comfort zones. If you do incorporate it into the sump, I'd keep if fairly small. A smaller reservoir will have to be refilled more often, so take that into consideration... but there's less risk if a leak were to occur.

It's all a big balancing act.

 

[outy]

Outy,

Like Jackson says there is a risk of leaking or even a overflow risk should the ATO flood into the sump.

Impossible if set up right.

You run your top off water out of a 5 or 10G pale so there is no real chance of flooding.

Mine is 100% accident proof. Uses 2 floats that turn on the aqualifter which only supplies a trickle.

If a float fails they stay shut, not open, and you have two with one for back up.

 

[outy]

I would keep the ATO reservoir separate, .

Exactly, that's mandatory if you want a fail safe system.

 

[oldhead]

Jackson and Outy, thanks for responding.
Outy- I had serious thought of using a stock tank until the 100g acrylic fell in my lap ( for free). I live in central PA and yes, insulation will be an issue for me.

Jackson- The return section size is what is making my head spin.

I have attached a rough draft of what I have summed up from my research. It is not to scale by any means. 100g 72"L x 18"D x 19"H

Please feel free to add thoughts or criticize

If it were mine and I wanted the ato included in the sump. Left to right, ato chamber 10" wide, 1st working chamber would be the skimmer with the drain from the tank. The size would depend on the skimmer but 12" would probably fit most. middle chamber would be the fuge/pod haven/mantis shrimp/problem fish area. The last chamber would be your return at 12" wide. This would leave the center area around 36" after baffles, which I think would be a really nice size fuge.

 

[Dantique]

I am staring the sump build this week. Thanks everyone for the advice. I'll post pics when I finish.