Diary of 50G Cadlights Cube Tank

[dkeller_nc]

If you examine the EB8, you will see a sticker that denotes the outlet numbers (1, 2, etc... up to "8"). This is the physical mapping of these outlets to the program; if you look at the "outlet configuration" in the program interface, each outlet gets a code. On my unit, these codes are 4_1, 4_2, etc..., where "4" denotes the EB8 unit, and "_1, _2, etc..) denotes the physical outlet number.

Virtual outlets are similarly coded, but they'll have a different prefix. On my unit, I've several virtual outlets that are coded "3_1, 3_17, 3_6, etc...).

I'd recommend downloading and perusing the Apex Comprehensive Reference Manual found here. Also, I'd review the Apex Fusion Quickstart Guide - it details the use of Neptune's cloud-based software for configuring and accessing your controller over the 'net. Very handy to get e-mails/texts if something on your tank goes wrong (like the tank's temperature going out of a pre-configured range).

 

[manishkasera]

I'll go through their manual. Here is the screenshot of the Outlets. You can see as part of AWM setup it did create the outlet named "Hydra_4_1".

 

[manishkasera]

As promised here are some pictures of goodies and the progress on tank. I still need to mount my doser under the tank, fill sump with water and start the system.
I still do not have wave maker on this tank that will be moving from my QT. In the mean time I have a small Koralia doing the job.

To start with here is a beautiful picture of Toronto's skyline:

Some shots of Apex goodies:

Tankshots:

Closeup to show minimalistic rock work:

 

[dkeller_nc]

I'll go through their manual. Here is the screenshot of the Outlets. You can see as part of AWM setup it did create the outlet named "Hydra_4_1

Reading the manual will help answer many questions, but until you get to it, here's some help with the specific issue (keeping an outlet "on" 24/7 so you can plug your Hydra into it).

Your EB8 has the designation "3", so outlets with this prefix are physical outlets on the energy bar. Your screen shot is from Apex Fusion; while you can do a lot with the Fusion interface, there are other functions that you can only access by directly plugging your Apex into your 'net router with a Cat5 cable and accessing the controller directly from a web browser on your computer (I recommend using Google Chrome - it seems to work better with the Apex than other browsers I've tried).

What you've pictured are the default naming and types of the outlets on the Energy Bar. You can access these configurations from the "Configuration>Outlet Setup" menu. Use the pull-down Outlet list to select the outlet you want to re-configure. From the specific outlet's configuration, you can re-name the outlet anything you'd like; change the "control type" to "advanced"; that will bring up a set of default code in the window below "Advanced Setup". Erase everything in the box other than "Fallback OFF" and "Set OFF"; change the "Set OFF" to "Set ON".

That's it - that outlet will now default to "on" (though you can still turn it "off" from the Dashboard) 24/7. The "Fallback OFF" statement sets the Apex so that if the controller malfunctions and loses communication with the EB8, that outlet will turn off. You want this to be the case, since it will prevent frying your corals if there's a problem with your controller.

In a similar manner, you can set up another outlet for your tank heater - simply set the outlet type to "heater" and set your "on" and "off" temperatures.

 

[dkeller_nc]

A couple of other tips:

I'd put your pump on the back glass. CADLights seems to use the harder type of low-iron glass (I've not scratched mine in a couple of years of operation), but the vibrations of magnetically-mounted pumps have been reported to etch low-iron glass over time. I'd much rather take the chance with the back glass than the sides or front.

Loc-line puts a lot of restriction in the flow path of a pump line. I replaced mine with a 45 degree elbow and straight piece of threaded pipe from the home store. I didn't measure it precisely, but I'd estimate a 30% - 50% increase in flow when I got rid of the loc-line. If you decide to keep it, you may wish to drill a small pinhole in the side of one of the links close to where it mounts to the overflow. Otherwise, if the return pump stops it will back-siphon to however deep the outlet of the loc-line exit nozzle is, which potentially could overflow the sump.

 

[manishkasera]

Once again thanks for the help Dkeller.
I am in the process of setting-up my sump today/tonight. Once that is done I'll connect everything to EB8 and I will remember your tips and program it.

 

[manishkasera]

OK. Finally I completed setting up my EB8 properly.
Anyone who have the Hydra 52 setup, could you share the program so I can look at this for reference.

 

[Camps23]

Are you guys running durso drains on your cadlights? I just sold my IM nuvo 38 and picked up a 70g artisan. It has 2 bulkheads. I'm looking to keep it super quiet as its right next to couch in living room. Any suggestions?

 

[manishkasera]

I'm using the drain fittings shipped from Cadlight as is, in my experience it is very quiet. What bugs me more than anything is Skimmer. It's noisy and little difficult to set it properly, it keeps moving and for some reason sometime it pulls too dry and sometime it fills the cup in no time.

 

[manilaboy1vic]

Are you guys running durso drains on your cadlights? I just sold my IM nuvo 38 and picked up a 70g artisan. It has 2 bulkheads. I'm looking to keep it super quiet as its right next to couch in living room. Any suggestions?

mycadlights 68g versa is a durso and is super quiet. the only annoying noise is the return pump vibration from time to time... but if i move it a little it quiets down.