Diary of a Newbie's 46g Tank. What to do Next?

Bill, it really looks good! :)
I don't know anything about MH lighting. I always read stuff about burning them in, but didn't understand it. Now that I've seen a visual of it, I understand it better.
I also have never had any cyano, but from what I have read about it, good water quality, good skimming and good flow are needed. Maybe the light on your fuge isn't good enough. I've read so many different opinions on what is and isn't good, that after a while, your head can spin. How long do you keep the lights on in the fuge? Maybe you can cut down the hours on that for a few days and see if it improves.

But I like the way it looks so far! :)
 
Thanks Pat and JW

And if anyone sees anything bad feel free to flame the hell out of me!

As for the fuge and light....
At the top of this page is a picture of the light I am using. It may not be the best light as the packaging doesnt match what Melev was recommending. I should call the 800 #. I used to have the lights on 24x7 and the Cyano was indeed worse. Now that they are on opposite cycle of my Display tank they do look better. Maybe it is the lights?

I will post on Melev's thread about them.
 
I read recently, (and of course I would never be able to find where I read it) that some people have had luck with the lights Marc recommended, and some didn't.
If you've noticed a decline not running 24/7 and running them opposite your light schedule, maybe you should try cutting them down even a little bit more just to see if it helps. It may or may not work for you. Just a suggestion.
 
I've run the light Marc recommended (for about 4 months now)-- my chaeto doesn't seem to like it, but I had a small amount of grape caulerpa in there that really took off-- this has since been removed but the chaeto doesn't seem to be really growing much-- its still green-- it might be an issue of flow in my setup (i'm on the low side)-- I haven't messed with it in a while as I'm now setting up my 135 reef tank and will be going with a 20 or 29 gallon fuge more then likely.

I'll be bleeding off flow from a mag 12 to feed my completely seperate fuge so I will be able to set the flow where ever I want it (I have flow to spare with this pump and my setup).

Back to the light--- you more then likely got the 2700K light which is somewhat yellower then Marcs-- he did do a side by side test on his light and the 2700 one and the 2700 worked pretty good-- the 5100k one was just better in his test, as long as it grows I wouldn't worry.

As far as cyano in the fuge, It doesn't really bother me much-- I have experimented in exporting cyano rather then just scraping it in the tank and back to the water-- I took a small gravel siphon and cut down the tube so its real short. Then I cut off about 1/4 inch off of once side of the siphon face (so when I scrape it, the stuff I'm scraping is inside the siphon face). On the other end of the tubing I connected a filter bag and stuck this in my sump-- then I initiated a siphon and started scraping and sucking up the cyano on my glass-- most of it gets trapped in the filter bag-- you can take your time and scrape it real good since the water is just going to your sump. When done, just empty and clean the bag-these little filter bags cost about $2 at most stores.

I know your setup is very different from mine so maybe you can figure out a way to do this too--- maybe use a small pump or cannister filter to suck out water, and put it back into your sump/fuge through a filter bag........

anyway maybe this will give you an idea.... my cyano did seem to be reduced from doing this.... (slower and less came back).
 
Hey Spuds!

Your finally setting up a reef tank - this replacing, or in addition to, your FOWLR? The design change you suggested months ago where I divert excess water from the Iwaki back into the sump has given me great flow control. I tapped my refugium off this excess line so that as I open the ball valve to increase or decrease flow. What ever doesnt go into the fuge just flows right back into the sump.

The light does grow my Chaeto like mad! it doubles in size every week and becomes real green and dense.

The siphoning with a filter bag is a great idea. I will just put the other end of the hose directly into the sump.and pass it through the filter.

The one thign that stumps me is flow. I didnt think Cyano could grow in high flow areas. I have cyano growing on the chaeto right next to the overflow. This is one of the highest flow areas of all....
 
I think the high flow thing isn't exactly correct-- it won't grow in a real high flow area because the water moves to fast for it to stick (cyano loosely attaches)-- but if its high, but not high enough to wash it off, it will still grow--I'm sure there are multiple variables with this stuff.

I still have some in my tank but it doesn't seem to grow on the rock anymore, I just get some on my glass (mostly on the front of course)--

I sort of fell in to keeping corals-- I bought a tank from someone leaving the hobby and when I was getting the tank and rock from him he was trying to get rid of alot of stuff-- MH lights, calcium reactor, and some coral....I ended up getting some leathers and button polyps off him and have done some reading and think I can handle it (I have a fairly good grasp of the bio-chemistry involved now). Anyway, the price he sold me stuff was too low to pass up...

The new tank will be replacing my 72 bowfront FOWLR (I have the polyps and leathers in there now and they are doing fine)-- I have 2 small kids and another on the way and just won't have the time to keep up on 2 tanks-- a 135 is big enough for me I think-- will have a pretty big sump and a fairly large fuge when all set up--- has been slow going getting all set up--just not enough time.
 
robilium said:
Here is my fuge.

Now I am somewhat perplexed by the cyano outbreaks. I used to have cyano in my main tank but some chemi-clean and the replacement of my MJ 900 with a SEIO 640 fixed that. (Love the SEIO btw).

Yet for somereason I can not get it out of my fuge. I have tried chemi-clean. I also replaced a single 1 1/4" water inlet with a 3/4" PVC pipe drilled and capped which runs along the entire length of the aquarium and about 4" off the DSB. If I turn up the water anymore I get a sandstorm, you can sorta see the remanents of the last time I turned it up.
Any idea on how to stop the Cyano? My next step is to try Red Slime Remover.


Robilium,

I also bought those lights from HD when I couldn't find the exact bulb that Melev recommends. After 2-3 months of cyano growing everywhere in my sump I switched it out to the spiral PC bulb (6500K) that Melev recommended and the cyano was gone within 2-3 weeks. I made no other changes to the sump or flow, so I'm guessing my bulb was not the correct wavelength and encouraged the cyano.

Just keep an eye on the anemone. The 9-12 month rule is one for water chemistry in the tank to mature and, two, for new hobbyists to get used to maintaining their water parameters. Keep a very close eye on your water parameters and keep them stable. At least BTAs are more durable than other anemones.

As far as I know the percula and occelaris do not host in BTA on a regular basis, but they have been known to on occassion.

Brian
 
Ok some updates everyone.

Those lights are defintely the cause of Cyano! Now to find a replacement :)

I was able to determine it by noticing the cyano growing only where the light was pointed. Bad Light! bad!

Stay tuned for a big suprise!
 
How to upgrade a 46bf to a 75g RR.

How to upgrade a 46bf to a 75g RR.

Well everyone I had a great opportunity to buy a mint condition 75g RR tank complete with DIY stand, 35g sump, and all plumbing so I juumped at it. This was further hastened by a funny event while on a last minute business trip.

This was one of those business trips where your boss turns to you and says "can you be on a plane in 60 minutes - you can buy clothes and neccessities when you get there". So I left the wife all alone to care for the tank during my absence. All was well and she was doing a great job until 10pm on Friday night when I got the email:

"THE AQUARIUM IS OVERFLOWING" onto our hard wood floors.

Come to find out the J Tube overflow had lost suction and about 30 gallons of water was being pushed up from the cellar.

Suffice to say the HOB overflow had to go. An upgrade was the only solution right?! :D


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Directions for the move

Directions for the move

Here are my instructions I wrote down for the move:
hope they help someone else.
I also read melev's thread.
Melevs Tank moving writeup

Buy Sand.
Buy 2 plumbing fixtures to adapt to 3/4" and 1 1/4".
Buy flexible hose for the connection.
Buy PVC cutter.
Buy PVC to hose connections.
Buy Plastic sheet

Turn off Pump downstairs
Run up stairs and break syphon
Syphon out water from HOB and disconnect
Unscrew return hose

Organize rock and coral so that it is low
Add 78 deg heater to 35 gal tank
Drain water into sm tank via cleaner syphon
Move rock and corals over as water drains
Stop water draining and remove fish and crab
Move SEIO over to 35 gal
Continue water drain to 1cm into 5gal buckets

Remove Shims
Move tank forward - careful not to scratch
Move 75 into place - careful not to scratch
Check for level and use shims as needed

Add new sand to 75
Add 46bf sand to 75 and Mix
Cover with black plastic, platter, and bowl
Pour water into bowl
Begin water pump from 35 to 75
Add Rock as room allows
Add Fish when possible
Move SEIO and heater over when needed
Hook up electricity
Put hood on and power up

AFTER
Move heater back to salt mix
Setup Plumbing to basement
Begin water test by adding extra water to sump, and pumping up.
Add Saltwater to tank until ALMOST full - dont over flow
Build new canopy
 
This move went pretty well overall. It only took 4 hours! The pump idea was a great thing - never had to lift water at all, let my mini pump do it. I just hijacked the pump from my autotopoff.com setup
 
New Tank Pics:

New Tank Pics:

A couple comments about the pictures:

My crapass Jebo/Oddysea 2x96w PC Ballast bit the dust @ 4 months old. Therefore I have no atinics on - just 10ks. I have purchased a 2x110w ARO VHO retro kits from hellolights.com.

My bad luck with purchases continues as the 14k bulbs I purchased off ebay remained yellow and I had to go back to my old bulbs (10ks).

I havent made the new hood yet and that is my custom 46bf hood being used temporarily :)

My camera still sucks so I apologize for the not so fancy pics :)

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I am also trading my 46 bf stand, tank, HOB overflow, and NO light for 25lbs more love rock from a friend:)

The tank, and stand are nothing towrite home about being in fair-good condition so 75-150$ worth of rock is good for me. I will use the rock to build a bridge between the two caves. Also want to put a rock in the right side cave to give the perception of depth.

Any comments or advice on the aquascaping?
 
BTA not so happy - what to do?

BTA not so happy - what to do?

So you guys were right about the BTA - he just doenst seem very happy at all :(

Follows are two pics. He is very extended and his tentacles are not full. I should have waited! Damn that LFS :( Very dissapointed. Anything I can do to help him along?

How does he look?


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Give the BTA some time-- maybe he will recover-- has he been getting enough to eat?? and are your water conditions ok?? (Good and stable)
 
BTA

BTA

Hey Spuds!

Glad to see your still hanging around!

I think we found the problem with the BTA - Feeding! I had been feeding him once or twice a week frozen Formula 1. I would blow it into him with a turkey baster. Come to find out he needs meatier stuff like a Silverside! I have a whole package of silversides leftover from whn I was trying to capture the mantis.

So I tried to feed him last night, he took peices of the fish but not all. He immediately looked better. I will prolly need to hand feed him for awhile,

Other thread about the BTA
 
FLOW

FLOW

Flow:

I need to increase flow. As you can see I have my return split into 2. One seio is on one side. Rather than buy a Seio1500 for the other side I am thinking of getting one of these:

MaxiJet Mod - pushing Tunze like flow

Discussion thread at our local club website

This would allow me to have a Seio 620 on one side with a "Tunze wanna be" on the other. They would flow across the center of the tank and crash into the return which is pushing 550 gph.

Right now I have 1100 gph in a 75 gallon tank. With the new MJ Mod I would be pushing ~2600?
 
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