did something stupid
- Thread starter unbreakable
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Mr Stomato
New member
I know there are mixed reviews on whether to feed immediately or not. Not that anyone's wrong, just that it has worked for them. I am the opposite really. I don't feed my anemones until I feel they are somewhat settled. Like I said, my LTA refused to eat for 3 months. Being anemones they pickup a lot of material from the water column. I have 5 anemones and none have been fed within the first week of getting them. This has worked for me.
If he is shrinking and spitting out zooanthallae then I would venture to say that hes suffering from a little light shock. His walking around is either light or flow. My LTA doesn't care about flow. He chose a spot that has hardly any flow. How does he look first thing in the morning? How does he look after your accessory lighting comes on?
If he looks decent in the morning (a little deflated, but overall pretty good) and he looks good under accessory lighting, but looks crummy either during the halide cycle or after the halide cycle then it's light intesity issues. Flow is a little harder to determine because they vary so much.
All of my anemones have taken a week atleast to stabilize in my tank. My gigantea is now on day 6 and still looks stressed. A few of my BTAs have walked on me and hid from my lights for days but within a week came out and grew fast.
I would sit tight on this one, lower your light intensity if you feel that is the biggest stress factor. Lower those nitrates if you can. Your nitrates might not kill your anemone alone but it certainly won't lessen his stress. You sound concerned enough for this guy so do what you can to ease his pain and leave the rest to time with continual observation.
If he is shrinking and spitting out zooanthallae then I would venture to say that hes suffering from a little light shock. His walking around is either light or flow. My LTA doesn't care about flow. He chose a spot that has hardly any flow. How does he look first thing in the morning? How does he look after your accessory lighting comes on?
If he looks decent in the morning (a little deflated, but overall pretty good) and he looks good under accessory lighting, but looks crummy either during the halide cycle or after the halide cycle then it's light intesity issues. Flow is a little harder to determine because they vary so much.
All of my anemones have taken a week atleast to stabilize in my tank. My gigantea is now on day 6 and still looks stressed. A few of my BTAs have walked on me and hid from my lights for days but within a week came out and grew fast.
I would sit tight on this one, lower your light intensity if you feel that is the biggest stress factor. Lower those nitrates if you can. Your nitrates might not kill your anemone alone but it certainly won't lessen his stress. You sound concerned enough for this guy so do what you can to ease his pain and leave the rest to time with continual observation.
unbreakable
D:
At night, like right now, he seems normal and stays open. once the morning comes rolling around he starts deflating, usually within 20min of actinics in the a.m., then throughout the day it'll deflate and inflate, until towards the end when actincs are only on (late p.m.) and at night itll come back to normal but shrinks less often, maybe once the whole time. It doesnt spit anything out and its in a spot where it has very little indirect flow. He's buried again which is good
I'm just being a pansy. I just hate seeing things die, and hopefully it wont be dying and lives a long time
Mr Stomato
New member
It is possible that it has been in darkness in a box for too long. Just by going into a movie theatre midday for 2 hours and then going outside really bothers my eyes. I can only imagine how this guy feels if he had been in darkness for 48 hours or so.
I would consider decreasing lighting by filtering it.
I would consider decreasing lighting by filtering it.
unbreakable
D:
Well, this is day 8 of having the anemone and I thought it was okay since it hadn't deflated and hasn't removed its foot from the new spot.
Actinics came on at 8am and at 10:50am it started to deflate. Earlier I tried feeding it and it was grabbing the food viciously, but with my stupid mistake, it was just too big for its mouth. I'll feed again in two days since it probably wasted a lot of energy doing all this.
I'm going to go ahead and do the water change, and I normally do 20%, should this be okay or should I do more? or should I give some time before doing the water change?
Metal halide doesn't come on until 12pm
Actinics came on at 8am and at 10:50am it started to deflate. Earlier I tried feeding it and it was grabbing the food viciously, but with my stupid mistake, it was just too big for its mouth. I'll feed again in two days since it probably wasted a lot of energy doing all this.
I'm going to go ahead and do the water change, and I normally do 20%, should this be okay or should I do more? or should I give some time before doing the water change?
Metal halide doesn't come on until 12pm
timrandlerv10
New member
what are you parameters? are you running carbon?
i would go ahead and feed him something small now.
i would go ahead and feed him something small now.
Purple Penguins
New member
my anemone would deflate everytime the lights came on for the first 2-3 weeks, it was super inflated when the lights went out, I wouldnt worry about this behavior yet, I have heard of it happening to other people along with myself and eventually mine got on a normal light cycle after I guess it felt fully acclimated to its new home and lighting and params
unbreakable
D:
thanks a lot. i was starting to think i was the only one that this was had happened to or i was doing something wrong. looks like i'm going to have be patient and wait those 2-3 weeks
Mr Stomato
New member
Oh yea, almost all of my nems went through a inflate deflate process for a week or so. My gigantea is still doing it and its on day 7 now. I'm sorry if I might have led you to believe it's not normal. I just like to minimize stress as much as possible and light acclimation is part of it.
Yea when feeding, chop it. For water changes, spread them out. If you want to do a 20%, then do 10% twice over a week. The lesser the impact on anything the better.
Yea when feeding, chop it. For water changes, spread them out. If you want to do a 20%, then do 10% twice over a week. The lesser the impact on anything the better.
unbreakable
D:
i did the water change and hes still the same, probably more stressed form the water change though. i also added the skimmer but ive been having problems with microbubbles.. its a coralife 65, it turned out the cylinder for the air tubing was clogged up from the manufacturer, so i had to drill a hole.. im just trying to find out how to reduce the microbubbles, its a pita.
this is day 9 btw :\
oh and it looks like he had pooped/ or is pooping. i see a litle bit of brow stuff thats stringy near the mouth
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timrandlerv10
New member
"If you want to do a 20%, then do 10% twice over a week."
keeping the water stable is a good idea, but your math is off
on a different note, why are we doing water changes? sometimes we say that when we just dont know what else to do...sometimes we want to change one specific thing.
low ph, do a water change? no, but it would move your ph closer to fine if your new water was correct.
low ca, do a water change? no, but if you do regular water changes, on a tank like mine, its enough to keep my ca high enough for my needs.
my nem is having issues, do a water change? maybe something more simple would also have the same effect--run carbon?
i dont know, dont change anything, just store that philosophy until somebody smarter or more experienced fills in the theoretical gaps.
personally, i think we waste a lot of perfectly good water
keeping the water stable is a good idea, but your math is off
on a different note, why are we doing water changes? sometimes we say that when we just dont know what else to do...sometimes we want to change one specific thing.
low ph, do a water change? no, but it would move your ph closer to fine if your new water was correct.
low ca, do a water change? no, but if you do regular water changes, on a tank like mine, its enough to keep my ca high enough for my needs.
my nem is having issues, do a water change? maybe something more simple would also have the same effect--run carbon?
i dont know, dont change anything, just store that philosophy until somebody smarter or more experienced fills in the theoretical gaps.
personally, i think we waste a lot of perfectly good water
Purple Penguins
New member
I would have to agree with timrandlerv10 water changes are not the answer to everything, I do my water changes on my tanks every two weeks to 3 weeks
right now its just a time issue for the anemone its adjusting to its new home and looking for its happy space
unless its mouth is gaping, its turning to goo,bleeching out, not attaching to anything and rolling around like a tumbleweed, not accepting food (thats not to big
your anemone should be fine given some time.
if you are at anytime concerned about some kind of behavior with your anemone go ahead and post, you will get some good advice and you will get some bad advice or you get the easy answer as timerandlerv10 said, "DO A 10% WATER CHANGE"
right now its just a time issue for the anemone its adjusting to its new home and looking for its happy space
unless its mouth is gaping, its turning to goo,bleeching out, not attaching to anything and rolling around like a tumbleweed, not accepting food (thats not to big
your anemone should be fine given some time.if you are at anytime concerned about some kind of behavior with your anemone go ahead and post, you will get some good advice and you will get some bad advice or you get the easy answer as timerandlerv10 said, "DO A 10% WATER CHANGE"
Purple Penguins
New member
10 ppm is not very bad
unbreakable
D:
I just did a water change because it was time to. I do one weekly
I also did it because I wanted to add the skimmer and since it takes up water in the skimmer from the tank, I wanted to make sure I had extra water in the tank
In another week I'll be back and let you guys know what happened. No bleeching, no disintegrating, it's not detached, may or may not accept food on occassion; still just deflating and inflating and getting used to the tank I suppose. Thanks for all the help from you guys, this forum is awesome
I also did it because I wanted to add the skimmer and since it takes up water in the skimmer from the tank, I wanted to make sure I had extra water in the tank
In another week I'll be back and let you guys know what happened. No bleeching, no disintegrating, it's not detached, may or may not accept food on occassion; still just deflating and inflating and getting used to the tank I suppose. Thanks for all the help from you guys, this forum is awesome
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Mr Stomato
New member
You're very welcome. My water change statement was indeed for the nitrate issue. He didn't have a working skimmer or fuge, so how else do you get rid of nitrates that I'm not aware of? lol. So yea it may ONLY be 10ppm nitrates, but what will that turn into? yep only more nitrates.
Though it may be a waste of water for some I don't prefer to take chances with any nitrates I'm sure many feel the same.
Last time I checked 10%x2 times in a week=20% water in one week. Please don't flame me for making a good suggestion such as getting nitrates to 0. It is a standard by which most of us strive and if our animals could thank us they would. A fuge and skimmer are also good suggestions. I wish you the best of luck niet!
Though it may be a waste of water for some I don't prefer to take chances with any nitrates I'm sure many feel the same.
Last time I checked 10%x2 times in a week=20% water in one week. Please don't flame me for making a good suggestion such as getting nitrates to 0. It is a standard by which most of us strive and if our animals could thank us they would. A fuge and skimmer are also good suggestions. I wish you the best of luck niet!
Purple Penguins
New member
I disagree that having a small amount of nitrates turns into a bigger problems, I know many people with reef tanks including myself having 3 and all of them run some ammount of nitrates at low level, sure it would always be ideal to get them to 0 however I have not been able to succesfully get mine to 0 since my tanks were empty, mine always stay at the same ammount of nitrates the same as neits about 10ppm I ran a fuge for a time along a skimmer but in the end I removed both and went skimmerless on all, I do my water changes like everyone else, I just dont for every little thing
timrandlerv10
New member
first off, if we were having this conversation in person, you would see my face and hear my tone, and that while my personality is warm, there are no flames. anywhere. if it came across as other, mea culpa, my apologies.
100 - (100*10%) = 90% old water
90 - (90*10%) = 82% old water
100-82=18
18 does not equal 20
Calfo ran that logic out to a constant replacement idea...it was interesting, but i don't have the skills or time to make it that complicated.
0 is definitely less than 10. but 10 is not bad.
have a good weekend all!
tim
while that seems insignificant now, if your intent is truly 20%, over times
100 - (100*10%) = 90% old water
90 - (90*10%) = 82% old water
100-82=18
18 does not equal 20
Calfo ran that logic out to a constant replacement idea...it was interesting, but i don't have the skills or time to make it that complicated.
0 is definitely less than 10. but 10 is not bad.
have a good weekend all!
tim
while that seems insignificant now, if your intent is truly 20%, over times
Mr Stomato
New member
Ok cool, no problem It is impossible to tell someones tone of voice in text, no sweat.
When I said 20% of water over a week in 2 10% vs 20% of water in one shot, my goal was to express the help in reducing impact of the changes, that is all.
When I said 10% nitrates turns into something worse, I simply meant more nitrates in addition to that 10%.
Water changes need to be done on every system and he being newer to the hobby come here for help. We all want to share what works for us even though most of what we do are based on personal opinons/practices.
Thanks for the feedback
It is impossible to tell someones tone of voice in text, no sweat.When I said 20% of water over a week in 2 10% vs 20% of water in one shot, my goal was to express the help in reducing impact of the changes, that is all.
When I said 10% nitrates turns into something worse, I simply meant more nitrates in addition to that 10%.
Water changes need to be done on every system and he being newer to the hobby come here for help. We all want to share what works for us even though most of what we do are based on personal opinons/practices.
Thanks for the feedback
unbreakable
D:
when i setup the skimmer the next day i could tell it was going to to detach and take off. well, it did. it hated the new flow from the skimmer and was persistent in trying to find a new place.
i placed him in a spot surrounded by live rock. he moved around until he faced the indirect flow, never attached but never seen him open so large. fed him a small piece of raw shrimp and took it right away and ate it. doesnt shrink like it used to though, it deflates but just a tiny bit where it still looks normal and the rest of the time itll be huge.
so i take it that it hates the flow in the in tank, still wondering what i should do. im thinking of asking the lfs if they have a customer who has an established tank thats large and would like to have it.
what do you guys think?
i placed him in a spot surrounded by live rock. he moved around until he faced the indirect flow, never attached but never seen him open so large. fed him a small piece of raw shrimp and took it right away and ate it. doesnt shrink like it used to though, it deflates but just a tiny bit where it still looks normal and the rest of the time itll be huge.
so i take it that it hates the flow in the in tank, still wondering what i should do. im thinking of asking the lfs if they have a customer who has an established tank thats large and would like to have it.
what do you guys think?
