Digital Bars and High Amp boxes

[TandN]

Ok I have 3 dedicated lines in my fish Closet. Is his ok ?


Homerun 1 20A
1. Digital power bar w/
A. Highamp (2)400w MH
B. VHO (2) 110w
C. Profuilux Fans

2. Highamp's other plug

Homerun 2 20A
1. Digital powerbar w/
A. Highamp (1/2 HP Pacific Coast Chiller)
B. Heater (200w)
C. Heater (200w)
D. Profulix Dosing Pumps
E. CO2 Regulator

2. Highamp's other plug

Homerun 3 20A
1. Skimmer
2. Vortecs
3. Return Pump
4. Phosban reactor
5. Calcium Reactor
And a few other misc.

 

[TandN]

Or This

Homerun 1
1. Digital Bar w/
A. Highamp 1 (400w MH)
B. Highamp 2 (400w MH)
C. VHO

2. High Amp's Other Plug

3. High Amp's Other Plug

4. Digital Power Bar w/
A. CO2 Regulator
B. Calcium Reactor
C. Calcium Reactor feed pump
D. Profilux Fans
E. Profilux Dosing Pumps

Homerun 2
1. Tempurture Controller
A. Chiller
B. Heater
C. Heater

Homerun 3
Same as above

 

[kidney514]

The best way to help is to explain how to calculate amps

20 amps x 110V = 2200 watts
That means that you are allowed 2200 watts to be on at the same time on each circuits you have.
But on the other side the digital powerbar are rated 15amps x 110volt = 1650 watts

For instance this:
Homerun 1 20A
1. Digital power bar w/
A. Highamp (2)400w MH
B. VHO (2) 110w
C. Profuilux Fans

A&B = 910 watts C is peanuts, so technically you still have for about 440 watts on this one. (leave yourself room for mistake 300 watts)

Get the wattage of your devices and you will be able to make a better decission with that info.

 

[TandN]

Yeah I know the wattage should be fine but Im not sure which way is best using the high amp boxes I dont understand exactly what it does. I had all this on my old tank and they were only on 2 homeruns.

 

[AQD_ottawa]

High amps provide the option of seperating high current devises placed on the digital power bar

For example, You wish to control you MH lighting via the digital power bar but you are close to the maximum permitted current draw of 15 amps

So the high amp has two leads, a switch lead and a supply lead. the switch lead plugs into the digital power bar 110V socket and the supply lead into a seperate wall socket, prferrably on a seperate supply line.

Plug the MH into the high amp and set the 6 socket power bar to control it

You have now isolated the power from the 6 way but still providing control and also a safe dedicated power line to run high ampage devises

 

[TandN]

so then your saying that by having it plugged into the digi bar and then the same outlet (which is a homerun) have the HA box's other plug is cancelling out the whole reason of using the HA box ? Could you look at the configuration I provided above and LMK what you think of them ?

 

[AQD_ottawa]

Yes and no

yes as it does not spread the load across different ring mains

No becuase still using it protects the expensive power bar from continued switching and wear on the devise.

In your case your set up is fine (from what i can tell from sitting here at the pc) and using the high amps is protecting your important 6 socket power bars

 

[jamesdawson]

Hey Tanya,

Do you have some pics of your tank and equipment?

Thanks,

James

 

[TandN]

ok then it. So which one do you think is best option for me ? I plan on in the future to get your chiller and remove the 1/2 hp PC chiller. So should I go with the first plan set up so that it will already have the chiller on the digi bar ? Or does it not really matter ?

For the calcium reactor to be controlled by the profulix the only thing that needs to be in the digi bar is the co2 regulator correct ?


TIA

 

[AQD_ottawa]

Option 1 seems fine your load is just under 10 amps so employing the high amps will make life simpler.

Do you have the calcium reactor? As there is something a whole lot better and cheaper, I am reffering to the balling method, simple adn huge benefits.

 

[TandN]

no pics its not set up yet sorry

Yes I have a reactor I did the balling method for the last few years and it was easier when I had my reactor

 

[AQD_ottawa]

The FM easy balling light?