dinoflagellates

please keep us posted on the 1ml/10gallon H2O2 dosing, I've been reading and am interested in your results!

Can you elaborate on what corals you have and how they react? You have any SPS?
 
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yeah, I need to be able to add more than evaporation can account for. Once my pH and Alk are where I want them, I'll go back to dosing saturated kalkwater. I'm using some ESV stuff that I've had for a while. I think it's pretty pure stuff. What's the issue doing it this way? The only thing I've ever read is that there are impurities that settle out. Is this really an issue? Are there more impurities than in salt mix or food or Baking Soda, Calcium Chloride that we all dose?

Impurities vary depending on mining location.I think you raise a good question,one that Ive been asking myself for a long while now.Personally I dont believe limewater adds anymore impurities than 2 part but thats just my opinion.Salt mixes contain above NSW levels of trace elementents and theres no question fishfoods add more to the net of heavy metals than limewater.
 
Corals:

several frogspawn
several small SPS colonies including milli, acro, monti caps, etc.
other LPS: acans, brain
I really don't have any zoas or palys to speak of - I have heard the will close up initially

I dose the 15 ml to my sump once per day, usually halfway through the lighting schedule. I'll check the H2O2 concentration, but it's just the Target brand - super cheap. I have a 120 with a 40 gallon sump that is half full. After four days, I haven't noticed any adverse effects on the corals. Some actually seem better/more extended, but that could be due to the other cleaning I'm doing and getting Alk back in line. I haven't noticed a huge difference in the dinos yet, but I'm going to give it the full 10 days or so. I'm also adding quite a bit of kalk water, but I want to figure out how to get a doser going so it can be 24/7. I have a peristaltic pump that is perfect, just need a timer.

Plan B will be to combine what I'm doing with 7 days of blackout. I'm hoping plan A works.
 
I battled Dino's about 9 mos ago. I learned a lot and it was a pain in the *** battle. Ultimately, what worked for me was a solid 3 day lights out and reduced flow. I found water changes to do nothing but fuel the growth. I vaccuumed every bit I could find. Nothing else worked for me and I have been Dino free ever since.
 
So I started adding kalk slurry to get the pH up and it really seems to want to return to about 8.0 over night. I had it up to 8.6-8.7 last night. I will test Alk and Ca again tonight - I don't want them getting too high while I try to raise pH. I also started dosing hydrogen peroxide per others' suggestions here on RC.

This whole thing is annoying - it is very slowly attacking my SPS tips.

I maybe entirely wrong but,that sounds like you could be adding to much to fast and witnessing burnt tips on your sps.Just my experience, but ive done this in the past.It took a little while before I started to understand what I was doing was causing my alk to drop making it seem like I wasn't adding enough.
I think a ph rising that high is likely to cause alk loss through precipitation and a good indicator is burnt tips that allow algaes a place to invade the coral.
Just a thought here but maybe an upper 8.4-5 rise during the day is a safer play.

Ph swings naturally from day to night and I dont think you can control or maitain a high value 24/7 with limewater .When added like you are it depletes all the available co2 ,and fast.You'll get alk swings that maynot be obvious by the usual signs like the white chalky-ness seen on the glass ,heaters ect..
 
So, after a week + of H2O2, trying to keep pH up, siphoning manually, I don't seem to be making much headway. Last night I put a black out blanket over the whole tank, so we're going to try that route. 4 days of lights out, then introduce some light for a few days and then another 4 days of lights out. We'll keep you posted.
 
Just a quick update - I've been dosing H202 for a few weeks now and it really doesn't seem to have an effect. It could be having a small effect, of course, as i don't really have a control, but not the desired effect: eliminating the dinos.

Anyways, I will be doing lights out periods until they are gone. It's the only thing that really seems to work.
 
OK, so I've never really dealt with these before, so anyone that has, please chime in. I have a very light case where I'm noticing bubbles on the back wall and a few strings here and there. Nothing too bad, and everything in the tank looks great, but I don't want it to start getting out of control. Anybody know of a good thread that deals with these?

The only thing that I can think of that may have triggered them is the Alk took a bit of a dive down to 5.6 for about 4 or 5 days where I didn't dose. The pH followed, of course, down to 7.7 or so. Could that do it?

It's a 120 with a good size skimmer, I've run GFO for the last month or so (could this have actually triggered it?), water changes monthly, nitrates and phosphates very low.

Any advice?



This is kind of an older article (2006) but seems pretty good. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-11/rhf/index.php
There definitely seems to be some merit to raising the pH to 8.2-8.4.

Its very possible the tank can be nitrogen limited and that is why you cant get an upper hand on the algae.Algae have a preference towards forms of Ammonia over Nitrate for nitrogen.They're also much more efficient at uptaking it than they are in other forms.As you know algaes can also use nitrate but not as efficiently.This is likely why once the path is changed alage are kept in check.
This pic shows how this can happen with fish waste and bacteria (autotrophs) that breakdown foods/waste going directly to the plant.


800px-Aquarium_Nitrogen_Cycle.png


I think the algae deprive the bacteria we want to encourage by limiting the pathway to no2 -no3.This puts a serious limitatation on (heterotrophic the ones we want to reduce nitrate) bacteria's ability to grow and compete out alages.These are known to compete this way and its well documented on in shore wildreefs.
I cant prove it by any means but I think the reason lights out sometimes works is because the algae are autotrophic (see tmz's carbon thread for reference)so depriving them of light takes away the ability to make carbon.They cannot grow and die as it breaks down it maybe enough to give other bacteria needed nitrogen to change the path noted in the pic.

This is just an idea.
You can try the lights out or you can try to feed more reduce lighting period to 6 hrs with the usual gfo skimming water change stuff.Some how this seems to correct itself but I cannot see how with low or zero readings of NO3.
-Steve
 
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Now that picture is easy to understand. I think from now on pictures should be used to should a "technical" process. Love the fish.
 
Cyanobacterium is somewhere between a bacteria and algae,Dinoflagellates are an algae.But in either case they are light dependant so it really wouldn't matter it could be applyed to them both.

-Steve
 
I think I see what you are suggesting Steve - that the dinos are outcompeting algae for nitrogen forms. Not sure how that helps me though. Somehow in the wild they strike a balance unless something is out of whack. In my tank they seem to take hold.

I'm currently doing another lights out.
 
Sorta.
As far as I know dinos much like any nuisance type algae have a preference to ammonia/ammonium over nitrate .Although they can and will use nitrate it comes a much more cost in energy because it has to be processed ba k to ammonium before they can use it. So it is a longer process for the dinos ,this is likely where they lose the battle to bacteria that will also be competing for nitrate.Problem is they can't if the dinos are grabbing it before it's processed to nitrite then to nitrate.

Just a thought,are you sure that 2-4tds water is not the source?
8 months is a long time to deal with this stuff .I just noticed you posted that

-Steve
 
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Yes, I'm positive since I've had a few other tanks with the same quality RO water and have never experienced dinos. I honestly feel DI is very overrated, but that's just my opinion. Dinos thrive in extremely low nutrient tanks. I've had a very low level infestation for the last year. I also have not had any other algae problems whatsoever. The dinos have irritated some of my corals to the point of killing them, but that was a while ago. Recently the corals seem to be doing well despite the dinos. Dang, I'm sick of typing the word dinos...

On day three of lights out. I think I'll go four.
 
Gotcha.I just thought it was worth some discussing in case the lights out didn't work
Thinking it might lead to others ideas or stuff we haven't know or tried chiming in
I'm out of ideas
Wish you luck with getting a handle on it hope the lights does it

-Steve
 
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