Dinoflagellates.
- Thread starter DNA
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Make sure you add your pods in the dark with the filtration off so they get a chance to settle in the rocks.
Thanks for the tip.
Quiet_Ivy
New member
I need to buy a scope, that's very interesting about diatoms.
I would LOVE to have worms, snails, crabs..however they seem to have been the first victims of dino poisoning. I did see my brittle starfish this morning, yay!
Is the location in your .sig accurate? I checked the companies you ordered from, and none of them will ship to Canadia.
My LFS does have pod cultures, (tisbe/tigriops) but their opinion is that despite being advertised as benthic, most won't survive in our tanks. I think they have phyto and rotifers.To be honest, I wouldn't mind it. It isn't pretty but it supports a huge array of critters. I have no ambition to run anything TOTM-worthy. I was trying to create a lagoon type lps tank; the fact that my nutrients are undetectable is actually quite a surprise. I'm extremely interested in microfauna and invertebrates.
Next week's things to try: feed phytoplankton! Increase oyster feast and maybe stop rinsing the frozen mysis. No water changes. Leave the sandbed alone.
ivy
Today's water tests: Alk 8.3, Ca 380 (? testing error, not a fan of the salifert Ca test. Big weekly drop otherwise), Nitrates undetectable
Yes, I live 15 minutes from Port Huron, Michigan. I get the stuff shipped to a parcel depot there and go over and pick it up. There is very little available here in Canada.
Here's another pic, especially where it looks just like cyano except what you can't see in the picture is a 4 inch long strand coming from it. Long strands come from the coral too. Cyano never has strands right?
Also, aren't you worried that the Dino will immediately kill the plankton and pods? I thought those were the first to go during a Dino outbreak. I'd like to add all those smaller life forms but was worried they wouldn't last
I've only seen cyano mat, looks more like dinos than cyano.
Here's another pic, especially where it looks just like cyano except what you can't see in the picture is a 4 inch long strand coming from it. Long strands come from the coral too. Cyano never has strands right?
Also, aren't you worried that the Dino will immediately kill the plankton and pods? I thought those were the first to go during a Dino outbreak. I'd like to add all those smaller life forms but was worried they wouldn't last
If you get methods in place to remove it like 10uM filter socks and a UV sterilizer and run some carbon, blow it off the rocks and corals daily and vacuum the sand through a filter sock and put the water back in the tank to keep the dino numbers down you should be able to add plankton.
I did all those things, then removed my sand bed, turned off my skimmer, stopped running po4 binder, carbon and UV for about 3 weeks and let the water dirty up till I was on the verge of hair algae and had green micro algae growing on the glass then I added the plankton.
My dinos were triggered from using algaex algae killer that decimated my micro fauna but there must be other triggers, however the dinos can kill the micro fauna so you end up in the same boat.
mathman7728
New member
uneven two part
uneven two part
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uneven two part
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DNA
New member
Ivy it looks like dinos in your pictures.
It's possible that the organism that survive the initial increase in toxicity will develop a tolerance.
This is well known for slow human poisonings. The organisms living with palythoa are another example.
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Dfee. Strands can be all dinos, dinos govered with cyano or cyano alone.
Cyano strands being the thinnest and shorter.
There are endless parameters to dinos and once you think you nailed some facts, dinos will act in another way next time. I used to have strands and bubbles, but I rarely see them now.
It's possible that the organism that survive the initial increase in toxicity will develop a tolerance.
This is well known for slow human poisonings. The organisms living with palythoa are another example.
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Dfee. Strands can be all dinos, dinos govered with cyano or cyano alone.
Cyano strands being the thinnest and shorter.
There are endless parameters to dinos and once you think you nailed some facts, dinos will act in another way next time. I used to have strands and bubbles, but I rarely see them now.
I did it over a 2 week period, about 15% every other day and I dosed supplemental bacteria after each time.
ReyR
New member
Was thinking of using shoppe vac. I only have a simple siphon for water changes. Has kind of a strainer on it to prevent lots of sand from getting sucked up.
I siphoned it out with a piece of 1/2" hose, I discarded the sand in case it had cysts in it. I filtered the water and put it back in as water changes seem to fuel the dinos.
ReyR
New member
What kind of filter did you use?
ReyR
New member
I guess my concern (and it's obviously not the case for you) is that if I do it over a 2 week period, doesn't that increase the chance that the new sand may become seeded with Dinos over the course of that time? I have an order for pods and phytoplankton on the way from Algae Barn. That should help. This my burning question. Could I do the whole change safely over the course of a day with bacteria supplements. I don't want to rush and put the whole tank at risk. But I also don't want to seed new sand with dinos.
I used a BRS 10" RO canister with a 5uM sediment filter in it and a maxijet pump, I kept the filter running in my sump between vacuums so it didn't go rotten and used 3 filters in total.
There back!
Just when I thought I got rid of mine they are back.
Here is what happened. I tried everything in my tank. Peroxide, uv, lights out multiple times, no water changes, lots of water changes...nothing worked. So I basically abodoned my tank for 6 months. All I did was feed my fish and top off. No water changes. They went away after about three months. Over a month ago I decided to get the tank back in shape. I did a couple of 30% water changes then setup a continuous water change that does roughly 15% a week. So far all is well.
Not doing the water changes caused a pretty bad algae problem in the tank. I did a lights out for four days and got my cleaning crew updated. This helped and algae got better. Everything held steady for about a month after this. I started getting into my routines and out of the blue did my first phosphate test. It was .4 so I decided to go the quick fix route and run high capacity gfo from brs at half the recommended dose. Two days later now and I am seeing dinoflagellates on the sand (small patch) and a few areas on rocks. I checked my phosphates and they are at .2
I hate these things. I stopped the gfo just now. Hoping I can get control back. My guess is that removing the phosphates killed something else and allowed the dinoflagellates to come back.
Anyone else have ideas or theories on this? What really concerns me is how fast they appeared after bringing down phosphates.
Just when I thought I got rid of mine they are back.
Here is what happened. I tried everything in my tank. Peroxide, uv, lights out multiple times, no water changes, lots of water changes...nothing worked. So I basically abodoned my tank for 6 months. All I did was feed my fish and top off. No water changes. They went away after about three months. Over a month ago I decided to get the tank back in shape. I did a couple of 30% water changes then setup a continuous water change that does roughly 15% a week. So far all is well.
Not doing the water changes caused a pretty bad algae problem in the tank. I did a lights out for four days and got my cleaning crew updated. This helped and algae got better. Everything held steady for about a month after this. I started getting into my routines and out of the blue did my first phosphate test. It was .4 so I decided to go the quick fix route and run high capacity gfo from brs at half the recommended dose. Two days later now and I am seeing dinoflagellates on the sand (small patch) and a few areas on rocks. I checked my phosphates and they are at .2
I hate these things. I stopped the gfo just now. Hoping I can get control back. My guess is that removing the phosphates killed something else and allowed the dinoflagellates to come back.
Anyone else have ideas or theories on this? What really concerns me is how fast they appeared after bringing down phosphates.
Did you add any or have any plankton, ie pods, worms, critters? Did you have green algae growing on the glass or was it brown?
Lowering the po4 too quickly may have stressed your corals and they may have expelled them, corals host dinos, also you may have had cysts and lowering the po4 triggered them.
Are you correct on the numbers, .4 or .04 and .2 or .02? cuz .2 is a big drop.
I didn't add any pods, or worms. I got plenty of them. The algae on rock and glass was green. The drop was .2 not .02. I use the ulr phosphorus test. I was really surprise by that big of a drop. That brs high capacity gfo is very strong. And that was at almost half the recommended amount.
And this was not from corals I don't think. I lost almost all my corals from the dino and lack of water changes over six months. I do have some zoa but not many
And this was not from corals I don't think. I lost almost all my corals from the dino and lack of water changes over six months. I do have some zoa but not many
