<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8376836#post8376836 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by badbones
Just got home from work and the system seems stable. Just bare with no fish swimming around. God I miss the Chevron. Had him for 7 years and raised from 3/4" to about 7". My purple tang and yellow assessor will also be missed. They were so health and fat!!! A few of my corals are not doing to well. For those of you that know and have seen it, I may lose my Fiji tort that I have had for over 5 years now and recovered from the tank crash 2 1/2 years ago. Another tort colony is losing its flesh. The good news is I have a few clams and they seem fine so far. I guess they will be the test. Also the lone fish survivor is a bangai so I must assume there was some oxygen in the water still when I made it home.
To answer some questions. I pretty much have a total redundancy system. I use and AC2 to control most everything. My heaters are controlled with the AC2 as well as the heater controllers set to 82 incase the AC2 fails. I have a UPS to run a pump in the system just for this reason and I guess the battery does not hold a charge any longer. The system is mainly on 1 20amp circuit, with some of the lighting on another. The system can not entirely run on one 20 as it will pop the breaker.
I do have a new fish room being completed that has 3 20amp circuits for this very reason.
My lesson is I will NEVER buy any equipment made in CHINA!!!!! I always tell people to spend the extra on quality equipment as you get what you pay for. And this is what I get. I never thought a heater controller (not the heater element) which is separate would pop a GFCI.
Thanks for all the offers and concerns out there. Just hope that those who read this will make changes or test there equipment for this very reason. By the way, my heaters just started to come on this week.
Tony