diy auto top off
- Thread starter illnino
- Start date
Stile2
New member
Well finally finished it, mostly. It works perfect.
Here is the insides of the finished product.
I told you guys that the picture wouldn't help.
After I build the power center for the new tank, I will put the transformer, relay, and circuit board into half of a double blue switch box. The other half will be a switch with outlet combo. With the LEDs sticking out in holders.
BTW the LEDs work as follows, yellow on whenever the system has power, Green when the solenoid is open, and Red when the lower float switch fails.
I tested it by moving the float switches up and down and it works great.
Keith
Here is the insides of the finished product.
I told you guys that the picture wouldn't help.
After I build the power center for the new tank, I will put the transformer, relay, and circuit board into half of a double blue switch box. The other half will be a switch with outlet combo. With the LEDs sticking out in holders.
BTW the LEDs work as follows, yellow on whenever the system has power, Green when the solenoid is open, and Red when the lower float switch fails.
I tested it by moving the float switches up and down and it works great.
Keith
Stile2
New member
I have a couple of issues with the 12v pumps.\
One, reliability, does anyone know?
Two, I will not have room under the new tank to have a big enough bucket to make using a pump worth it.
Three, I already owned the 120v solenoid for the rodi.
But I would be interested how it works. The wiring would be one heck of a lot simplier.
Keith
One, reliability, does anyone know?
Two, I will not have room under the new tank to have a big enough bucket to make using a pump worth it.
Three, I already owned the 120v solenoid for the rodi.
But I would be interested how it works. The wiring would be one heck of a lot simplier.
Keith
linklemming
Premium Member
For a 12V pump, you could use a replacement pump from a tunze osmolator. They are about $18 from marine depot.
Gary
Gary
billag
Premium Member
linklemming said:
Gary -
Do you know what the current draw is on this pump? (For power supply selection)
Another thing to think about is that you would need to diode clamp the pump, just like you'd do on the relay coil to protect the switch from inductive kickback when the power is shut off.
Bill
Stile2
New member
I'm about 30 miles west of Palm Springs along the 10, a little town called Yucaipa. Dare anyone to be able to pronounce that! If you are in the neighborhood, you would be more than welcome to stop by. I just fragged my Acropora, looking to trade
Since I am in the beginning stages of a tank upgrade, as in I have gotten everything tank, lights, most of the plumbing, etc. The only things I need are to build the stand, canopy and sump.
The top off will be going on that set up, not my current one.
The reason there are empty pins on the relay is that to test it I did not hook up the AC to the relay. I simply put my ohmmeter on the correct pins and watched to see if there was contact when the float switch moved.
I will be putting the whole topoff into a box that will fit in my power center, yet to be built, for the new tank.
Keith
If you are in the neighborhood, you would be more than welcome to stop by. I just fragged my Acropora, looking to trade Since I am in the beginning stages of a tank upgrade, as in I have gotten everything tank, lights, most of the plumbing, etc. The only things I need are to build the stand, canopy and sump.
The top off will be going on that set up, not my current one.
The reason there are empty pins on the relay is that to test it I did not hook up the AC to the relay. I simply put my ohmmeter on the correct pins and watched to see if there was contact when the float switch moved.
I will be putting the whole topoff into a box that will fit in my power center, yet to be built, for the new tank.
Keith
Ahh ok. Well I am down by San Diego so thats a ways away from me. Well I really don't know what to do at this point. I still need to get some tubing for the output of my pump. I guess I will have to do trial and error. Maybe you can hold my hand as I go. Smart about testing without A/C power then you don't go frying anything or worse.
k kewl.. ill let you know. Ill have to go through and look at the parts needed. Maybe I can find a old a/c adapter not being used and use it for power. Was looking at your schematic. I don't see where the pump is connected. Do I need to cut the plug off the end and wire it ? I take it I will need to solder the connections.. This should be a fun project. I just have to believe I can do it 
.
I always liked tinkering as a kid.. now here is my chance.. just don't wanna fry myself
. I always liked tinkering as a kid.. now here is my chance.. just don't wanna fry myself
tekknoschtev
New member
bstear, if you have access to, and skills using a soldering iron, it's better to use that and some heat shrink tubing, but if absolutely necessary, you can use electrical tape and wire nuts. A little less reliable, but if done properly just as good.
The pump gets connected to the "AC Out" wires. You could wire it to a socket so you dont have to wreck a pump and just plug ANY pump or device into it. That's my plan.
I'm still a kid, by most standards (19) and love tinkering. I've got a few boxes full of fun stuff from my BEAM Robotics days that will be an asset to fun projects like this. Too bad I dont have float switches in there. Need to order mine soon.
The pump gets connected to the "AC Out" wires. You could wire it to a socket so you dont have to wreck a pump and just plug ANY pump or device into it. That's my plan.
I'm still a kid, by most standards (19) and love tinkering. I've got a few boxes full of fun stuff from my BEAM Robotics days that will be an asset to fun projects like this. Too bad I dont have float switches in there. Need to order mine soon.
I don't have any float switches either. Rethinking it with the comments about the amt of volts going to the switches and considering we are dealing with water i want to take whatever precautions. I have never soldered before but i am willing to. I do have access to soldering iron though.
tekknoschtev
New member
bstear said:
Its really not difficult, just dont use the soldering iron to "draw" the solder on. Heat one side of the wires, and then put the solder on the other. Works like a charm. Oh and a tip... slip the heat shrink tubing on BEFORE the wires are connected, doesnt work well if you dont
Stile2
New member
My plan is to wire the AC to a switch/outlet combo, switch on top, outlet on bottom. So the AC in will be connected to the switch and the pump, or in my case solenoid, can plug into the outlet.
Soldering is pretty easy, just make sure that you get the wires or pins, etc, good and hot. The solder should melt and flow onto the pieces. If you have to melt the solder with the soldering iron then your pieces are not hot enough, that's called a cold solder and it will not hold or conduct electricity reliably.
Here is a pic of the switch/outlet combo.
This one is in my kitchen.
Using this switch/outlet I will be able to put all of the electronic in a double blue outlet box with the leds sticking out the front.
Keith
Soldering is pretty easy, just make sure that you get the wires or pins, etc, good and hot. The solder should melt and flow onto the pieces. If you have to melt the solder with the soldering iron then your pieces are not hot enough, that's called a cold solder and it will not hold or conduct electricity reliably.
Here is a pic of the switch/outlet combo.
This one is in my kitchen.
Using this switch/outlet I will be able to put all of the electronic in a double blue outlet box with the leds sticking out the front.
Keith
