DIY Calcium Reactor - PICS

[Debbie64]

Damon - aka duhfactor - had a Po' Boy's Calcium Reactor thread - that's here: Calcium Reactor

Hats off and all credit to Damon for this DIY. All the parts and specifics are in that VERY informative thread (if you haven't read it, this is the DIY reactor that made me go out and buy parts), but it's been off the radar for quite a while, and I didn't want this to get lost in a somewhat large thread.

I'm building a modified version of it - single chamber instead of 2, plumbing routed a bit differently, etc. - and I was hoping for an opinion on the CO2/water inlet modification specifically. First, here's what I'm going to build:

Here are the parts:
1/2" Slip joint compression Tee

1/2" x 1/4" reducer

John Guest Tee

Is there any reason at all why the CO2 and water inlet can't be added this way? Like issues with crossing the streams or something?

Debbie

 

[cj hill]

btt

 

[exoticaquatix]

what are your caps made of?

-nick

 

[Debbie64]

The version of the top that I'm using is a combination of 3 parts - all abs pieces, slip joint x male threaded, which gets glued over the acrylic. The screw on cap is a combination of female threaded by slip and a slip cap glued onto that.

Damon took actual pictures of the pieces, so you can see the details of the pieces on the first page of his thread.

Debbie

 

[duhfactor]

Hi Debbie,

Actually, your plan will work, there are just a couple of suggestions I have. First is that your water feed line will need to be pressurized if it is in that location, because the internal pressure of the reactor will want to back feed effluent into that water inlet line. I have always added a one way valve between the water feed pump and it's inlet into the reactor so that reactor effluent doesn't back feed into the sump and crash your tank. You can get 1/4" one way valves (john guest) that just go in line with your r/o line, and slip in place. They have an arrow on the outside housing to make sure you orient it correctly. I have set up a strong return pump in the sump, and just put a "T" in the return line which fed into my reactor in order to eliminate an extra pump feeding the reactor. For the CO2 side, you also will want to run a one way valve. These things are pretty pressure sensitive, but the pressure in the CO2 bottle will heavily outweigh the pressure in the reactor, so you should be able to adjust the regulator to get the bubble count you need. Does that make sense??

D

 

[Debbie64]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12196239#post12196239 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by duhfactor
Hi Debbie,

Actually, your plan will work, there are just a couple of suggestions I have. First is that your water feed line will need to be pressurized if it is in that location, because the internal pressure of the reactor will want to back feed effluent into that water inlet line. I have always added a one way valve between the water feed pump and it's inlet into the reactor so that reactor effluent doesn't back feed into the sump and crash your tank. You can get 1/4" one way valves (john guest) that just go in line with your r/o line, and slip in place. They have an arrow on the outside housing to make sure you orient it correctly. I have set up a strong return pump in the sump, and just put a "T" in the return line which fed into my reactor in order to eliminate an extra pump feeding the reactor. For the CO2 side, you also will want to run a one way valve. These things are pretty pressure sensitive, but the pressure in the CO2 bottle will heavily outweigh the pressure in the reactor, so you should be able to adjust the regulator to get the bubble count you need. Does that make sense??

D

Absolutely. Thank you. I will add the check valves in.

I have an extra aqualifter which I used to feed my first calcium reactor - but just now realized that it was feeding into the section of pipe BEFORE the inlet to the pump. With a check valve in place, though, it should be fine there, shouldn't it?

If necessary, I could switch that slip joint connection over to the bottom at the inlet side of the pump.

My return isn't hard plumbed and while I could cut into the tubing and add a tee, I don't particularly want to. Plus it's a Little Giant 1000 gph... I also have a mag 7 feeding my protein skimmer. I could run a feed off that and it would be easier than the return tee.

Still, I'd rather not tee at all and have the CR a little more self contained.

Thank you again for help and especially for the DIY - can't wait to start building! (After I get these little details ironed out. :rollface: )

Debbie

 

[duhfactor]

Hi Debbie,

Thanks for the kindness

I think the aqualifter pump should be fine, especially considering that you will be dripping effluent out, which should allow water to come in. I'm not sure what type of skimmer you have, but if its venturi style, then the water will be filled with microbubbles which will not work with your reactor very well... I think the aqualifter would be the best option, and I think it will work in the configuration you have. I guess if it didn't keep the reactor pressurized well enough, you could switch the intake to just before the pump as you've suggested. It looks good to me

D

 

[Debbie64]

Excellent - I'll try it with the Aqualifter. My skimmer is an AquaC EV 180, but if I had to, I'd be tee-ing before the skimmer.

We'll see how it progresses as soon as I get my parts. Unfortunately, US Plastics doesn't sell the acrylic in anything less than 6' lengths any more, so I've got a surplus.

Maybe I'll make 2.

You know, just one more thing that I keep forgetting to address, then I'll leave you alone...

I notice there's no purple anywhere on your connections from pipe to pipe, so I'm guessing you are not using primer and only PVC glue - is that right?

Thanks again!

Debbie

 

[duhfactor]

Hey Debbie,
Your not bugging me at all, I love this stuff, so ask away!!! I actually use the one part clear PVC glue from home depot. It's marked as clear. I've never had trouble with it, as usual just make sure the parts are clean. If you want to make it really spiffy, you can clean the pipes and fittings with acetone (also at home depot, in the paint dept.) and boy does it look clean!!

D

 

[das75]

consider turning pump and making upflow.

Picture of my DIY in this thread

 

[Debbie64]

Upflow! Nice! Thank you!

I wonder if a 90 degree turn at the inlet instead of the 45 degree elbows would be enough of a hinderance on performance to make a difference...

I'm planning on the union/ball valve on the output anyway (in whichever configuration I use) since I think it would be necessary with a mag 2 or the quiet one to slow the flow.

What do you think?

 

[das75]

After I built it mine, found (though have a hard time believing) 2 45s give the same loss. This is from playing with the RC Headloss Calculator.

I'm a little bigger diameter and find the Mag3 okay. Wouldn't think you need to restrict flow unless you're planning on using really fine media.

 

[Debbie64]

So, Damon. I'm going nuts trying to nail down a couple of remaining parts and the taps. Home Depot, hardware store... I've learned not to even mention "fish tank." That makes their heads explode. Still, they usually ask. "Whaddaya think you're buildin' there, little lady?" The guy at home depot looked at me like I had three eyes when I showed him the pic of the compression T. I don't have three eyes, by the way.

'Course I didn't even know what a tap was until this thread. :lol:

Anyway, I found a place online and I think these are the right ones. So, I need the 1/2" and 1/4". Can you tell me if these are right?

Here's the 1/4" tap.

And here's the 1/2" tap.

I'm pretty sure the 1/2" matches what you mentioned in your thread, but the 1/4" for the John Guest is just a guess. But a national standard is just that, right?

Thanks so much, Damon.

And thanks, das. I'll go with the 90 then instead of the 45s.

Debbie

 

[das75]

Might recheck the tap size for the 1/4".

I'm using 1/4" OD tubing with the push in JG style fittings that HD carries. The tap for those are 1/8-27 NPT.

 

[Debbie64]

This is what's confusing. I have 1/4" tube by 3/8" MNPT and I also have 1/4" tube by 1/4" MNPT. I think.

I asked customer service at air,water, ice what fittings they sold with their DI vertical add on which are one of the fittings that I have, and she said they call them 1/4 x 1/4. But I'm fairly certain she was incorrect and those (the ones that screw into the housing lid) are actually 3/8"...

I'll get my answer, I suppose, when I get the remainder of my parts, one of which is a known 1/4" fpt.

So, color me a little bit confused and twitchy. :twitch:

 

[mflamb]

The flow on my Ca reactor goes the other direction, so the CO2 rich water is going to the bottom.

 

[duhfactor]

Hi Debbie,

Sorry for the delay, I've been out all day I looked at the links for the taps, and I can't remember the exact size and thread, but I know where they are, and I will dig them out in the morning and give you the exact tap you need. I remember searching a bit to get the right ones. The 1/4" RO fitting has a larger dimension tap than what is intuitive. I used 1/4" ro line fittings for everything, and was pleased with that size, the 3/8" size is difficult to work with (especially the tubing), and unneccesary in my opinion from a flow perspective.

D

 

[Debbie64]

I'll be looking forward to whatever you find out. Actually, though, the 3/8" JG fittings are still 1/4" tubing... It's just the thread size that differs which I think is where a lot of the confusion is. At least for me.

Still, I've got both 1/4" and 3/8" - both 1/4" RO tube size - so whatever tap is easier to find, that's the one I'll get. You'd think if it says it's NPT, that you can count on that to match as a standard...

!!

 

[duhfactor]

Debbie,

Sorry I didn't post any information, my day yesterday got away from me I will try to get it out tonight, and post it for you.

Thanks!!

D

 

[Debbie64]

No problem Damon. I can always just buy it and return it if necessary...

While I'm here, here's a dumb question: Would you use CO2 proof tubing on the effluent output in addition to the CO2 input?

Acrylic tubing is coming today; should be able to start building.