DIY Calcium Reactor - PICS
- Thread starter Debbie64
- Start date
duhfactor
Premium Member
Debbie,
I only used the standard RO tubing for the effluent side of things, mostly because it is cheap, easy to replace, and in went into my fittings without much hassle. I ran it for 2 years and had no problems. The final output line does get a little "gunked up" after a couple of years, but rather than clean it, I just replaced it. The closed loop lines running from one chamber to another, the burp lines, etc never had any trouble.
Enjoy the build!! Isn't it fun!!?
D
I only used the standard RO tubing for the effluent side of things, mostly because it is cheap, easy to replace, and in went into my fittings without much hassle. I ran it for 2 years and had no problems. The final output line does get a little "gunked up" after a couple of years, but rather than clean it, I just replaced it. The closed loop lines running from one chamber to another, the burp lines, etc never had any trouble.
Enjoy the build!! Isn't it fun!!?D
Finally finished it! Would have finished sooner, but I had a vacation tucked in there, too. Did a successful leak test yesterday. I mean successful no leak test. I took pics of parts and most of the process. It varies somewhat from Damon's and I used the upflow version as das75 suggested with the Mag 2. This is just the progress from parts to finish, minus the co2 tank which is out being filled. All parts from HD, US Plastics and the taps from Aubuchon Hardware online.
This flange is a little different from the one Damon got. It's an Oatey. It just has a little tab on the bottom and sanding it down a hair allows it to sit flush - you'll pardon the pun - with the floor.
Acrylic cut from 6 ft length with dremel.
I wound up doing 2 diffusers and sponges since I was building the upflow model. (Cut and sanded with dremel and drilled with 1/4" holes.) I used a zip tie, pushed it through the sponge and now even with the 1/2" and 1/4" fittings jutting through the inside at the top, they'll pull out at an angle so the unit can be completely cleaned.
And here's the finished product.
The input for the co2 and tank water is a 1/2" mnpt x 1/4" fnpt bushing into the T and a super speedfit swivel branch tee tube fitting from USP. I have 2 check valves for each input. (Foster Smith)
The footprint is 8" x 11" and it's 27 1/2" tall. There is just enough room in my stand for the reactor and the co2 cylinder.
When I get the co2 back and hook it up, I'll post again.
Yay.
Debbie
I took pics of parts and most of the process. It varies somewhat from Damon's and I used the upflow version as das75 suggested with the Mag 2. This is just the progress from parts to finish, minus the co2 tank which is out being filled. All parts from HD, US Plastics and the taps from Aubuchon Hardware online.
This flange is a little different from the one Damon got. It's an Oatey. It just has a little tab on the bottom and sanding it down a hair allows it to sit flush - you'll pardon the pun - with the floor.
Acrylic cut from 6 ft length with dremel.
I wound up doing 2 diffusers and sponges since I was building the upflow model. (Cut and sanded with dremel and drilled with 1/4" holes.) I used a zip tie, pushed it through the sponge and now even with the 1/2" and 1/4" fittings jutting through the inside at the top, they'll pull out at an angle so the unit can be completely cleaned.
And here's the finished product.
The input for the co2 and tank water is a 1/2" mnpt x 1/4" fnpt bushing into the T and a super speedfit swivel branch tee tube fitting from USP. I have 2 check valves for each input. (Foster Smith)
The footprint is 8" x 11" and it's 27 1/2" tall. There is just enough room in my stand for the reactor and the co2 cylinder.
When I get the co2 back and hook it up, I'll post again.
Yay.
Debbie
duhfactor
Premium Member
Debbie,
Excellent work. You did a nice job, this should work out well for you. Keep in mind that when you first turn on the recirc pump, it will want to push all the media up into the intake. You can shake it a little, while it's starting up, or in my case, I turned the pump down with a ball valve right at first, then gradually opened it up to full steam. Great job!!
Damon
Excellent work. You did a nice job, this should work out well for you. Keep in mind that when you first turn on the recirc pump, it will want to push all the media up into the intake. You can shake it a little, while it's starting up, or in my case, I turned the pump down with a ball valve right at first, then gradually opened it up to full steam. Great job!!
Damon
coraldaddy
In Memoriam
Very nice set up.
Keep us posted on how well it works.
Keep us posted on how well it works.
Thank you. I do have a second diffuser and sponge for above the media and also I'll be using Gen X instead of the ARM that I used with my old reactor. The gen x is so heavy plus with the diffuser, there shouldn't be a problem. I hope.
We'll see what happens.
Debbie
I do have a second diffuser and sponge for above the media and also I'll be using Gen X instead of the ARM that I used with my old reactor. The gen x is so heavy plus with the diffuser, there shouldn't be a problem. I hope.We'll see what happens.
Debbie
:lol: More than I expected, I think, but I haven't done a true total on it. It's my intention to do that soon, so I'll post when I have it. In many cases though, I bought more than I needed. Why buy only 2 elbows when you can buy 4?
I think I do have enough of everything to make 2 of them. Minus the 2 unions.I'll total it up and let you know.
Debbie
All those parts just nickel and dime you to death.
Still, it's not so bad - considering what an actual reactor costs. Plus, there's the fun of building it.
All parts of the reactor body including 2 check valves (14.99 EACH!) and 1/4" tubing cost $124.05.
Pumps, co2 items, etc including gen x media came to $265.27.
The 3 most expensive items were the 5 lb cylinder ($57.99) the regulator w/ needle valve, solenoid and bub counter ($78) and the mag 2 ($47.99).
I attached an excel file with a list of parts. I think. It's not showing up when I preview...
Debbie
Still, it's not so bad - considering what an actual reactor costs. Plus, there's the fun of building it.
All parts of the reactor body including 2 check valves (14.99 EACH!) and 1/4" tubing cost $124.05.
Pumps, co2 items, etc including gen x media came to $265.27.
The 3 most expensive items were the 5 lb cylinder ($57.99) the regulator w/ needle valve, solenoid and bub counter ($78) and the mag 2 ($47.99).
I attached an excel file with a list of parts. I think. It's not showing up when I preview...
Debbie
newreef8584
Member
Here is the reactor I built for my 120G. It is wayyyy too big. It has 2 full large jugs of ARm in it and could probably hold another.
The chamber is 8" x 8" x 17" split into 2 sections for an up and a down flow. Bubble rate is at 60/min and effluent is just shy of a steady stream. Has no problems staying at a PH of 6.5. It is hooked up to a PH controller and the Co2 seams to be off more then on.
Already have a 6" version most way complete. This monster will be finding a new home somewhere that can make use of it.
The chamber is 8" x 8" x 17" split into 2 sections for an up and a down flow. Bubble rate is at 60/min and effluent is just shy of a steady stream. Has no problems staying at a PH of 6.5. It is hooked up to a PH controller and the Co2 seams to be off more then on.
Already have a 6" version most way complete. This monster will be finding a new home somewhere that can make use of it.
OK - hooked it up day before yesterday, fixed the leaky bits (effluent exit and the top) and spent yesterday letting it settle and tweaking it in.
I'm pleased to say, no leaks, running quietly, the co2 is holding its pressure and best of all, bubble count and effluent rate are holding rock solid. Yay!
I haven't measured the pH of the effluent yet, but I have it set at 12 bubbles/40 drips per minute, and my pH this morning was, if anything a hair higher than it usually is.
gijoe asked about a pH controller... I have an Aquacontroller Jr., so as soon as I can afford to get another DC connect box, I'll be able run a pH control. Also, EWC88 asked about pump size for a 37 gal. I'm no expert, but the pump in this case is running the CR and shouldn't really be influenced by the tank size - it's more about the size of the reactor body itself. For this, I used a mag2. A smaller pump would run a smaller reactor.
I bought the base for the reactor at home depot. The pic's in this thread around the end of page 1. It's an Oatey toilet flange.
That's a nice beast, newreef.
Huge thanks to you, Damon, for the diy!
Debbie
I'm pleased to say, no leaks, running quietly, the co2 is holding its pressure and best of all, bubble count and effluent rate are holding rock solid. Yay!
I haven't measured the pH of the effluent yet, but I have it set at 12 bubbles/40 drips per minute, and my pH this morning was, if anything a hair higher than it usually is.
gijoe asked about a pH controller... I have an Aquacontroller Jr., so as soon as I can afford to get another DC connect box, I'll be able run a pH control. Also, EWC88 asked about pump size for a 37 gal. I'm no expert, but the pump in this case is running the CR and shouldn't really be influenced by the tank size - it's more about the size of the reactor body itself. For this, I used a mag2. A smaller pump would run a smaller reactor.
I bought the base for the reactor at home depot. The pic's in this thread around the end of page 1. It's an Oatey toilet flange.
That's a nice beast, newreef.
Huge thanks to you, Damon, for the diy!
Debbie
reefinmike
New member
nice work! it looks a lot simpler than mine was to build... however I think that mine was a bit overkill for a 125...
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